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Old 05-11-2009, 09:09 PM
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Default Rear sway bar

Hey guys wondering what your running for rear sway bars my car is twisting bad with the stock sway bar. I can not have anything welded to the body it must just bolt on any good ones out there you guys like?
Old 05-11-2009, 09:21 PM
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here's mine its bolted on its a spohn extreme drag bar

Old 05-11-2009, 09:58 PM
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that is a bolt in should be legal for you. rod end links. But theres a stand off braket that bolts to the stock holes for the stock rubber bushing end link braket.


check with the stock guys todd. whats the site? class racers forum.com or something? maybe check with S&W they make stuff for shockers.

Oh, look at that TRZ real anti-roll bar. that bolts to the panhard rod brace, and offsets the panhard rod behind the stock placement. But bolts to all and only the stock holes. That might work for you. I don't know if any stockers are running that???
I think you have to weld the endlink tabs to the housing tubes. But you can probably make a bracket to bolt them to the old brackets that hold the stock bars bushing?? what housing you running? Most use the strange 12bolts right?
Old 05-11-2009, 10:09 PM
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BMR Extreme. i wouldnt want any other kind.
Old 05-11-2009, 10:12 PM
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tim, i just realized yo0u cant have a bar that is welded to the chasis. in that reference, the spohn is your best bet. i know a lot of stockers dont use an anti roll bar, but keep it old school with air bags.
Old 05-11-2009, 10:26 PM
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I have really good luck with a stock bar and bags. I don't know what kind of 60's you're cutting, but I go 1.31 on radials with that setup.
Old 05-12-2009, 06:10 AM
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Tim you can use the BMR Extreme bar. I have them on quite a few stockers down here.
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Old 05-12-2009, 06:44 AM
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Tim,

I run the BMR sway bar. The rules say that you can beef-up stock suspension mounting points. It is add-on traction aids that can't be welded. At least that's the way that I see it. The BMR is a stock replacement, so I really don't see an issue. It is a great piece that really works well. I can run really low 1.3 sixty foot times. I do not preload the sway bar. I use an air bag in the passenger rear spring for fine tuning.

Good Luck,

Daren

Old 05-12-2009, 07:15 AM
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Originally Posted by studderin
Oh, look at that TRZ real anti-roll bar. that bolts to the panhard rod brace, and offsets the panhard rod behind the stock placement. But bolts to all and only the stock holes. That might work for you. I don't know if any stockers are running that???
I think you have to weld the endlink tabs to the housing tubes. But you can probably make a bracket to bolt them to the old brackets that hold the stock bars bushing?? what housing you running? Most use the strange 12bolts right?
I am really looking at TRZ as well, its more expensive but like said uses alot of stock holes and has way better clearance if your exhaust comes out from under the bumper!
Old 05-12-2009, 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by GIZMO
Tim,

I run the BMR sway bar. The rules say that you can beef-up stock suspension mounting points. It is add-on traction aids that can't be welded. At least that's the way that I see it. The BMR is a stock replacement, so I really don't see an issue. It is a great piece that really works well. I can run really low 1.3 sixty foot times. I do not preload the sway bar. I use an air bag in the passenger rear spring for fine tuning.

Good Luck,

Daren

Not sure about the BMR but I'm sure it works similar to the Spohn and they say that if you are to use airbags (i do) they should be used on both sides and not be tee'd together so they can't share air. I don't know what you're 60' times are but it's interesting that you have it set up that way.
Old 05-12-2009, 07:57 AM
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Just noticed the low 1.3 60' times in you response-interesting, nice Job!
Old 05-12-2009, 08:44 AM
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Originally Posted by tektrans
Just noticed the low 1.3 60' times in you response-interesting, nice Job!
Thanks. I have been 1.31 (6.54 @ 103 mph in the 1/8th). That is with an LT1 that made 402 rwhp and runs a 9" tire (3020 lbs).
Old 05-12-2009, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by tektrans
....they say that if you are to use airbags (i do) they should be used on both sides and not be tee'd together so they can't share air.
I have found that if I have the right springs in the car I don't need a second bag. My old Camaro (now owned by Mark Beaver) runs high 1.2 sixty foot times and has pretty much the same set-up.
Old 05-12-2009, 11:32 AM
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Thanks for all the help guys!
Old 05-21-2009, 06:25 PM
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i'm in love with my trz bar. bolt in kit 1.33 short time 295/45/17 radials 3825# car

fwiw the kit is lighter than all of the stock stuff you pull off compared to some of the solid drag bars adding quite a bit.

possible problem for you is the swaybar does not mount to the car anywhere near the factory location, but is definitely only bolted on in factory bolt holes.

http://fastrides.com/photos/mm/image.../original.aspx
http://fastrides.com/photos/mm/image.../original.aspx
Old 05-21-2009, 07:15 PM
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Spohn extreme if it has to bolt on. A few radial guys have had problems with the trz setup not being strong enough but they had 1.2x 60 ft's and 3400# cars.
Old 05-21-2009, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by 69vette
Spohn extreme if it has to bolt on. A few radial guys have had problems with the trz setup not being strong enough but they had 1.2x 60 ft's and 3400# cars.
what kind of issues with the trz setup?
i thought my new setup was going to need an anti roll bar, but im still sporting my suspenion techniques 1" sway bar mounted up with poly stock style end links.
its been on my car for years and always left strait. im about the only guy i know that leaves strait with a sway bar.
1.37-1.38 60ft at 3300#

will you break the rules with the stud mount being weld in, or can you drill holes and bolt it in the factory spot?
Old 05-28-2009, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by 69vette
Spohn extreme if it has to bolt on. A few radial guys have had problems with the trz setup not being strong enough but they had 1.2x 60 ft's and 3400# cars.
Actually there has only been 1 crew that had a problem (they thought) with the bars flexing. It turns out that they adjusted the bar the wrong direction, and thats why the roll got worse.

With our ARB setup, to load the chassis you need to SHORTEN THE PASSENGER SIDE link. Most ARB setups have the bar mounted to the chassis above the rear with the links going downward, so lengthening the passenger side loads the chassis.
Old 06-08-2009, 05:39 AM
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Old 06-08-2009, 06:43 AM
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no roll on THAT launch!!!!!!!


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