Serious launch and traction issues...
Serious launch and traction issues... Made it out to the track for the first time with the LS1 car. Mind you it's been 3 years since I've been to the track I use to cut a 2.1 60' on 18's in my 6spd 94 Z28 consistently. Tonight with the LS1 car the best I got all night wasa 2.404 60', and that was launching at at 1500rpm. The rest of the night I launched from idle and was getting wheel spin in the upper rpms, and spinning second like no other. Any advice on how to calm it down on the 1-2 shift and how to get the 60' down?
So far tried lowering PSI in tires, babying the clutch (maybe too much and bogging?), and even tried driving it like I stole it once lol.
So far tried lowering PSI in tires, babying the clutch (maybe too much and bogging?), and even tried driving it like I stole it once lol.
BFG G-force sports 245/55/16's. I can launch it fine on the street, but there were plenty of cars cutting great 60ft times. The worst part is the second gear spinning. The launch the car didn't seem to be spinning bad, just more like it was bogging than anything, may try launching at around 2k rpm next time. No suspension mods done, and sometimes the car would break loose at 4 or 5k rpm in first so I would just short shift it. Better ET but lower MPH when I did that.
Any suggestions on the 1-2 shift though? I was mostly just quick shifting and back on the gas fast, but it would spin BAD each time.
Any suggestions on the 1-2 shift though? I was mostly just quick shifting and back on the gas fast, but it would spin BAD each time.
whats your tire pressure at ? i would run those at 24lbs but until a true drag radial goes on i wouldnt worry to much ....also the bog means launch higher the spinning will happen till the drag radial is on , but your on thin ice with your 10 bolt at the track so save for a 12 bolt or 9in cause with a 6spd its a matter of time till it blows 
Made it out to the track for the first time with the LS1 car. Mind you it's been 3 years since I've been to the track I use to cut a 2.1 60' on 18's in my 6spd 94 Z28 consistently. Tonight with the LS1 car the best I got all night wasa 2.404 60', and that was launching at at 1500rpm. The rest of the night I launched from idle and was getting wheel spin in the upper rpms, and spinning second like no other. Any advice on how to calm it down on the 1-2 shift and how to get the 60' down?
So far tried lowering PSI in tires, babying the clutch (maybe too much and bogging?), and even tried driving it like I stole it once lol.
So far tried lowering PSI in tires, babying the clutch (maybe too much and bogging?), and even tried driving it like I stole it once lol.
Drag strip is a totally different surface than the street and is optimized for drag tires.....in theory though, because track prep can be shitty.
To get started you need...
-26" MT et streets, radials or non-radials, preferrably on a 15 inch drag wheel
-A line lock to get them hot and gummy so they'll hook
You'll have to see what happens after that because after you start getting some traction it will be a totally different game and you can really start concentrating on meeting some goals for the car.
Are you getting any wheelhop, because that's an issue easily fixed too.
Street tires at teh track is completely different from the street 
Also, you say other cars were hooking, but they probaly had suspension mods and/or a set of tires. As stated, reg ol radials need MORE tire pressure at teh track. It is proven that low pressure with radials causes your "footpront" to become smaller, as only the outer edges of teh radial will make contact.
Until you can get a good tire on it, hard to consistently get good 60'. Above and beyond all else, including suspension, the tire is teh key.
Also, you say other cars were hooking, but they probaly had suspension mods and/or a set of tires. As stated, reg ol radials need MORE tire pressure at teh track. It is proven that low pressure with radials causes your "footpront" to become smaller, as only the outer edges of teh radial will make contact.Until you can get a good tire on it, hard to consistently get good 60'. Above and beyond all else, including suspension, the tire is teh key.
Street tires at teh track is completely different from the street Also, you say other cars were hooking, but they probaly had suspension mods and/or a set of tires. As stated, reg ol radials need MORE tire pressure at teh track. It is proven that low pressure with radials causes your "footpront" to become smaller, as only the outer edges of teh radial will make contact.
Until you can get a good tire on it, hard to consistently get good 60'. Above and beyond all else, including suspension, the tire is teh key.
Also, you say other cars were hooking, but they probaly had suspension mods and/or a set of tires. As stated, reg ol radials need MORE tire pressure at teh track. It is proven that low pressure with radials causes your "footpront" to become smaller, as only the outer edges of teh radial will make contact.Until you can get a good tire on it, hard to consistently get good 60'. Above and beyond all else, including suspension, the tire is teh key.
The stickiest tires won't help you unless you're transferring weight properly either. Get some stickier tires and work your suspension from there. Systematically tackle one problem at a time, and don't make too many changes at once. Throwing random suspension parts on is not the answer. Document every change you make and the results you achieve from them while taking weather into account.
Some drag radials will considerably help your 60' and more or better than likely eliminate your 1-2 traction problems.
The best thing you can do is set some realistic goals for the car. How fast do you want to go and how much money do you want to spend? Money and personal knowledge is where pretty much anything car related starts and ends.
The entire car needs to properly function as a single unit to dial it in and be sucessful at the track.
-Front and rear suspension
-Tires, size, pressure, compound
-Gears and powerband
-Weight and transfer
-Weather and altitude
-Springs
-Shocks
-Driver
-Power
All of it makes a difference and can make or break you. Sadly it takes money and years to get the **** right.
I've been learning and have recently posted and received alot of info.
Last edited by joblo1978; Jul 11, 2009 at 07:26 PM.
Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo Guess I'll just try a stickier tire after I get some new wheels and tires for the car. Thanks everyone.
Oh and when I said I was lowering the PSI I meant to 28 before hotlapping... so it was probably back up to 32 after a pass or two. The contact patch looked as good as it could.
Oh and when I said I was lowering the PSI I meant to 28 before hotlapping... so it was probably back up to 32 after a pass or two. The contact patch looked as good as it could.
