Relocating battery to the rear
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 755
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From: abq,nm
Relocating battery to the rear I'm thinking about ditching the PC680, and putting a full size battery in the trunk, what all do I need, battery box, cables, full size battery, and a cutoff switch? I plan on picking everything up in the morning. What full size batteries are you guys running, along with how much cable, and what gauge, as well as battery boxes and cutoff switches? I'm also in the process of installing a racetronix 270lph fuel pump and their hotwire kit, would I run into any problems with this? Thanks in advance.
i like the moroso blue box. i got summit's "big lever" disconnect switch. bought a bunch of good 1/0 wire off of ebay. stuck with stock battery. you could run the main lead of the hot wire kit straight to the disconnect switch on the side with the alternator if you please.
For the wire,welding cable would be your best bet, that is generally a fine strand cable that will cary a good bit of current. 0/1 ga is pretty standard.
You will need a box (moroso blue one, every tech guy in the country knows that's accepted) a hole to vent the box to outside the car, your push.pull switch ( I used a flaming river one, but there's alot out there) I'd fuse the large cable running to the front of the car with a good 250 amp fuse, and you will need to unhook the line that goes to the back of the ALT, and run a 2nd cable from the ALT back to the battery itself, or at least the battery side of the switch, so that when you hit the battery kill, you kill the car.
A bulkhead fitting to put in the hvac delete plate is a nice way to go thru the firewall, and gives you a good power connection inside the car if you need one.
Weld a lug onto the plate of your cage, and ground the battery to that. That will take care of the ground connection.
Hope this helps, ditching that little battery will save you alot of heartache in the long run. As for a battery, anything will do, I just went with a duralast gold. It's been good for 3 years now, granted I keep it on a tender, but still.
You will need a box (moroso blue one, every tech guy in the country knows that's accepted) a hole to vent the box to outside the car, your push.pull switch ( I used a flaming river one, but there's alot out there) I'd fuse the large cable running to the front of the car with a good 250 amp fuse, and you will need to unhook the line that goes to the back of the ALT, and run a 2nd cable from the ALT back to the battery itself, or at least the battery side of the switch, so that when you hit the battery kill, you kill the car.
A bulkhead fitting to put in the hvac delete plate is a nice way to go thru the firewall, and gives you a good power connection inside the car if you need one.
Weld a lug onto the plate of your cage, and ground the battery to that. That will take care of the ground connection.
Hope this helps, ditching that little battery will save you alot of heartache in the long run. As for a battery, anything will do, I just went with a duralast gold. It's been good for 3 years now, granted I keep it on a tender, but still.
