I need 60 ft help!
The drag radials can be fussy. Yours may be shot but even if not, the extra suspension mods you've added may well be hitting your tires harder and breaking them loose, whereas before you had so much slop in the chassis and suspension you weren't shocking the tires like you are now.
I personally hate 16" wheels/tires on a late model f body. I would love to see a 15" tire on your car so you can hit the tires harder and get out of the gate.
That aside, what allows you to hit the tires hard without breaking them loose?
"Weight Transfer" that's what.
Like JL said, I would definately get a set of front QA1's with a soft spring so you really have to crank them up to get the ride height, all that stored energy in that spring will get that front end moving and transfering weight to those rear tires.
I would set the rear lcs's in the middle hole.
Set the rears like 5 or 6 for a start and set the fronts at "0", get that weight transferring and stiffen the shocks every pass until you can't hook anymore, then you can adjust from there according to track conditions.
Make sure you line her up straight in case you pull the wheels
I personally hate 16" wheels/tires on a late model f body. I would love to see a 15" tire on your car so you can hit the tires harder and get out of the gate.
That aside, what allows you to hit the tires hard without breaking them loose?
"Weight Transfer" that's what.
Like JL said, I would definately get a set of front QA1's with a soft spring so you really have to crank them up to get the ride height, all that stored energy in that spring will get that front end moving and transfering weight to those rear tires.
I would set the rear lcs's in the middle hole.
Set the rears like 5 or 6 for a start and set the fronts at "0", get that weight transferring and stiffen the shocks every pass until you can't hook anymore, then you can adjust from there according to track conditions.
Make sure you line her up straight in case you pull the wheels
No the tires dont come off the car. The car is garaged but not climate controled. My car is not a daily driver but gets driven on the weakends when weather permits. Ive been through three sets of mickey dr's and all went south traction wize with plenty of tread depth left on them. Dont get me wrong I think they are an outstanding tire thats why I keep purchasing them and will continue to. But it appears to me in my case that heat cycling from street driving and age cause them to go away.
high hp radial cars run 15 to 20 passes on mickeys do to after that the side wall is shot on them..it looks like you have tried barely flashing,mid flashing an then 2k..next would be 2400 or so....remember dr's is a fine line..you need to hit them hard off the line an keep them planted..hit to hard you spin..your car was unloading the tires after the hit on stock springs due to the rebound being to fast..you want a stiff shock to plant the tires and then to hold the plant..air pressure will change your 60s..dont let anyone tell you diff..some radial guys only have 1 or 2 psi window from tire shake or blowing them off..
If he is unloading because of springs/shocks or LCA position... How would changing tire pressure from 18 to 13 #s make a difference? I have had a car that unloaded terribly. Changing the tire pressure from 16 to 10 #s did absolutely nothing, the 60 ft was exactly the same, it only changed my trap speed.
hes not unloading the chassis now from what i read..he was having it unload on him with stock rears after a bit out the hole..now hes just blowing them off at the hit from what it sounds like..which air pressure can change that..ive seen this work many times..i agree if hes unloading he will just be chaseing his butt with tire pressure an thats when a shock,ta,lca adj is needed...i made the point about the side wall going on high power radial cars to point out they only last 15 to 20 runs so on a lower heavy street car or med weight street car they could go shot specialy if your driveing on them and hiting pot holes an such..
