Pinion angle?
Pinion angle? Well hers my scenario ive been cutting mid 1.4 60's averaging,I checked my pinion angle it was just shy of -2 so I stepped it up to -3 and brought the torque arm down one notch I have the chassis mounted one.Should this help me out or did I pit too much pinion angle in the car?Car is a turbo 400 402 car on the nitrious.
do you have rod ends or poly bushings? If you have poly bushings then you want to set it to -2, or at max -2.5. If you have rod ends then -1.5 is where you want it. Personally I wouldn't go past -2.
Yeah I have been told that the pinion angle doesnt really have much to do with traction, more to keep everything mechanically strait. SSPerformance is right, more in your tires and shocks, also you can position your lower control arms in a different hole in your relocation brackets. But cutting 1.4's aint to bad, your doing something right lol
Thanx guys for the advice,alright but with me dropping the torque armdown one notch on the chassis mount should help no?Yea im doing good with the 1.4's but there was a same yr car as mine at the track and he was getting high 1.3 60's with less power so I have room for improvment.
Honestly I'm not sure what that will do by changing the torque arm on the chassis crossmember. I believe it has to do with your instant center, I have been trying to figure that part out since I installed mine lol.
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My buddy who is one the moderators had a similar setup to mine,His car picked up best with the torque arm down as far as you can.He ha duals so he could bring down to the bottom hole.I still have a y pipe so I can only get it down to the second to last hole.
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Dave I didn't have it all the way down, I had it 2 holes up from where the lowest point in the BMR th400 crossmember would allow.
The pinion angle, try it, but I had mine at -1, I don't believe in alot of angle with these cars, we have zero axle wrap happening during a run with rod ended suspension, so there's no reason to add a ton of pinion angle.
Where is the suspension right now (shock settings, ride height front and rear) on the car? You're at the point now that you are probably close to the point that the car's either going to 60 foot like it is, or possibly stand itself up if you're not careful.
If you haven't gotten any travel limiters put on the car yet, get them on there, and limit the front end downtravel to about 2.5 inches, with the front end strapped down like that you can get pretty agressive with everything and it will be pretty hard to stand the car up.
What do you have on the car for a swaybar too, is it leaving level? If not, I'd look there if you haven't got a full drag bar on the car yet. That helped a good bit with mine, car got alot more consistant with the drag bar once that went on.
The pinion angle, try it, but I had mine at -1, I don't believe in alot of angle with these cars, we have zero axle wrap happening during a run with rod ended suspension, so there's no reason to add a ton of pinion angle.
Where is the suspension right now (shock settings, ride height front and rear) on the car? You're at the point now that you are probably close to the point that the car's either going to 60 foot like it is, or possibly stand itself up if you're not careful.
If you haven't gotten any travel limiters put on the car yet, get them on there, and limit the front end downtravel to about 2.5 inches, with the front end strapped down like that you can get pretty agressive with everything and it will be pretty hard to stand the car up.
What do you have on the car for a swaybar too, is it leaving level? If not, I'd look there if you haven't got a full drag bar on the car yet. That helped a good bit with mine, car got alot more consistant with the drag bar once that went on.
Hey Jason thanx for chiming in,I put the pinion angle back to where I had it -2
The Chef told me you had the torque arm on the last hole on the cross member.Right now i have at 2nd one from the bottom.Should I put back to 3 hole from the bottom thats were I had it orginally.
J I have the spohn drag sway bar car is leaving level that is not a issue.So you think I should set the pinion angle at -1?The front ride height is from the bottom of the fender to the ground 26 3/4 back is i believe 28 1/2 it has alot of rake in it.
The Chef told me you had the torque arm on the last hole on the cross member.Right now i have at 2nd one from the bottom.Should I put back to 3 hole from the bottom thats were I had it orginally.
J I have the spohn drag sway bar car is leaving level that is not a issue.So you think I should set the pinion angle at -1?The front ride height is from the bottom of the fender to the ground 26 3/4 back is i believe 28 1/2 it has alot of rake in it.
Drag bar is fine, that one works. Chef was right I had it there at one time, but that's where it was when it stood up... I put it back up a little after that and it didn't do that again.
I'd put the pinion angle back to where you had it, or try -1. Like I said, with these cars and no axle wrap, pinion angle isn't something that works like it does on a leaf spring car, or in one of these cars that has all poly suspension either, or worse yet stock rubber stuff.
You have the car way up there. Pull the rear spring isolaters out, that should drop the back some. If you have access to a belt sander, or better yet a table sander (big belt on a table that runs) Put the springs on there and surface them, make the top and bottom flat, this will take about a 1/2 inch off the springs, I did this with my car and it got the back down to about 27 3/4, and I had the front at about 25 3/4. It will probably require you to bring a couple 4 foot long boards with you to get the car on the trailer, put them on as a starter ramp, but it's worth it I found the car to work better that way.
Tomorrow I'll get you that info off the converter, and I'll get you Lenny's phone # too, with the #'s off this one you're pretty much guarintee'd to get the same thing and I think that will really get your car to pick up a ton, did with mine. Then when you have Ken put a fogger setup together for ya the added power is really gonna wake it up, just a small jet in the fogger with this converter you're gonna really be surprised.
I'd put the pinion angle back to where you had it, or try -1. Like I said, with these cars and no axle wrap, pinion angle isn't something that works like it does on a leaf spring car, or in one of these cars that has all poly suspension either, or worse yet stock rubber stuff.
You have the car way up there. Pull the rear spring isolaters out, that should drop the back some. If you have access to a belt sander, or better yet a table sander (big belt on a table that runs) Put the springs on there and surface them, make the top and bottom flat, this will take about a 1/2 inch off the springs, I did this with my car and it got the back down to about 27 3/4, and I had the front at about 25 3/4. It will probably require you to bring a couple 4 foot long boards with you to get the car on the trailer, put them on as a starter ramp, but it's worth it I found the car to work better that way.
Tomorrow I'll get you that info off the converter, and I'll get you Lenny's phone # too, with the #'s off this one you're pretty much guarintee'd to get the same thing and I think that will really get your car to pick up a ton, did with mine. Then when you have Ken put a fogger setup together for ya the added power is really gonna wake it up, just a small jet in the fogger with this converter you're gonna really be surprised.
Thanx J your a big help,I do have the rear spring isolaters out of there.so ill grind them down like you said.do recommened I drop the front down to where you had it?
Last edited by INTENESS; Jul 11, 2010 at 08:54 PM.
I'd lower the whole car if you can... if you can get the back 3/4 of an inch down, I'd drop the front a 1/4, you want about an inch and a half of rake in the car, 2 tops from what I found.
when you do the rear springs, make sure you measure them both and remove the same amount from both, or you'll goof with the balance of the car.
Get the travel limiters on there too, start with about 2.5 inches of down travel fron ride height, with the nose where I said I think full down travel will be like 3.5 inches or so, that's a bit too much... once I took that away from my car it never really even came close to standing up again. I probably should have moved the tq arm back down to where it was when the car stood up once the limiters went on the front, but I never did try it.... got a little gun shy after the first time LOL.
when you do the rear springs, make sure you measure them both and remove the same amount from both, or you'll goof with the balance of the car.
Get the travel limiters on there too, start with about 2.5 inches of down travel fron ride height, with the nose where I said I think full down travel will be like 3.5 inches or so, that's a bit too much... once I took that away from my car it never really even came close to standing up again. I probably should have moved the tq arm back down to where it was when the car stood up once the limiters went on the front, but I never did try it.... got a little gun shy after the first time LOL.
