Looking to drop a few tenths...
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From: St. Peters, MO
Looking to drop a few tenths... Looking at heading back to the track soon and lowering my time. I'll have an LS6 intake on and tuned by the time that happens, in addition to the mods in sig. Stock clutch, rebuilt 10 bolt with new posi & gears, 245/50-16 street tires.
Here's my PB so far: DA=1100
http://i51.tinypic.com/2zoacmc.jpg
...That was only my 5th ever pass (only made 6 total).
My question(s) are where to find a few extra tenths, and how low do you think I can get it?
-debating taking the out the front sway bar. Yes or no?
-Tire psi was at 35 last time, thinking 25psi in a street tire is fine.
note: I won't be putting on a DR.
-last time I left with a 4k rpm slip, this time I am thinking 5k.
-I know I can shift faster than I did before, I just wanted to crack a 12 last time. This time I want more.
I plan on going again Oct 12 to Gateway (the site of the LSX shootout) so ti should be pretty sticky 2 days after the shootout, plus its getting down into the 50s so the DA will be better than the 110 it was on my PB (really humid and 80*).
Sooo, with all that you guys think 12.599 or lower is possible?
Here's my PB so far: DA=1100
http://i51.tinypic.com/2zoacmc.jpg
...That was only my 5th ever pass (only made 6 total).
My question(s) are where to find a few extra tenths, and how low do you think I can get it?
-debating taking the out the front sway bar. Yes or no?
-Tire psi was at 35 last time, thinking 25psi in a street tire is fine.
note: I won't be putting on a DR.
-last time I left with a 4k rpm slip, this time I am thinking 5k.
-I know I can shift faster than I did before, I just wanted to crack a 12 last time. This time I want more.
I plan on going again Oct 12 to Gateway (the site of the LSX shootout) so ti should be pretty sticky 2 days after the shootout, plus its getting down into the 50s so the DA will be better than the 110 it was on my PB (really humid and 80*).
Sooo, with all that you guys think 12.599 or lower is possible?
-debating taking the out the front sway bar. Yes or no? Frees up weight and helps some with weight xfer.
-Tire psi was at 35 last time, thinking 25psi in a street tire is fine. Unless your going to go with a Bias Ply type tire, in reality it should not make much of a diff. WITH stock type powered cars I think you would see a benefit but on average, after the cam has been changed and gearing increased, going to a Bias Ply will see the most benefit. IMO run as MUCH PSI as the tire will allow for so that you keep with in 1 tenth of your best 60 foot. Also Make your front tires rock hard.
-last time I left with a 4k rpm slip, this time I am thinking 5k. You take that risk of blowing the rear, burning the clutch or just having blown runs. Proceed at your own risk. I am NOT a advocate for this but clutch slippage on a REAL street tire seems to net the best gains but AGAIN I think this is a recipe that will guarrentee future clutch replacements.
-I know I can shift faster than I did before, I just wanted to crack a 12 last time. This time I want more. Shift as fast as the transmission will allow. Do a clutch fluid swap and bleed. IMO until you pony up for a Tick Perf. Master cyl you wont see real gains, if anything chance of damaging the trans due to miss shifts.
-My Suggestion- Weight Removal. Either Permanant or just for the race. Look at the Sticky in this section. There is TONS of loose items you can be removing that will make a difference
-Tire psi was at 35 last time, thinking 25psi in a street tire is fine. Unless your going to go with a Bias Ply type tire, in reality it should not make much of a diff. WITH stock type powered cars I think you would see a benefit but on average, after the cam has been changed and gearing increased, going to a Bias Ply will see the most benefit. IMO run as MUCH PSI as the tire will allow for so that you keep with in 1 tenth of your best 60 foot. Also Make your front tires rock hard.
-last time I left with a 4k rpm slip, this time I am thinking 5k. You take that risk of blowing the rear, burning the clutch or just having blown runs. Proceed at your own risk. I am NOT a advocate for this but clutch slippage on a REAL street tire seems to net the best gains but AGAIN I think this is a recipe that will guarrentee future clutch replacements.
-I know I can shift faster than I did before, I just wanted to crack a 12 last time. This time I want more. Shift as fast as the transmission will allow. Do a clutch fluid swap and bleed. IMO until you pony up for a Tick Perf. Master cyl you wont see real gains, if anything chance of damaging the trans due to miss shifts.
-My Suggestion- Weight Removal. Either Permanant or just for the race. Look at the Sticky in this section. There is TONS of loose items you can be removing that will make a difference
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From: St. Peters, MO
Thanks for the help. I didn't really know how much the weight transfer of no sway would effect me since I'm not leaving too hard, but every bit helps. I'll probably end up doing it. How much of a bitch is it to drive without a front sway?
I know weight is a good thing to take out, but I kind of like having the car as close to it is normally driven (my DD), so I probably wouldn't take any out. We'll see though.
Clutch fluid swap will be done before I go. I know the huge slips on the clutch is killing it, but its been on its way out, as well as the master, but I am for sure doing the clutch this winter and maybe the master if I have enough left over. Otherwise, that is waiting until tax return time.
My 10 bolt isn't taking too much of a shock with the slips, so I think it will be alright. I won't be dumping it anymore for sure. I didn't spin at all on the 1.90 launch, track prep was great for everyone (friend blew his 10 bolt on DRs). I barked 2nd but that was it.
Really, I'm hoping the DA is just perfect that night. My 12.83 was corrected to a 12.6x so if its cold and not humind (with the track being at 400ft), I think I could knock some serious times down. Hoping for a DA of < 500.
I know weight is a good thing to take out, but I kind of like having the car as close to it is normally driven (my DD), so I probably wouldn't take any out. We'll see though.
Clutch fluid swap will be done before I go. I know the huge slips on the clutch is killing it, but its been on its way out, as well as the master, but I am for sure doing the clutch this winter and maybe the master if I have enough left over. Otherwise, that is waiting until tax return time.
My 10 bolt isn't taking too much of a shock with the slips, so I think it will be alright. I won't be dumping it anymore for sure. I didn't spin at all on the 1.90 launch, track prep was great for everyone (friend blew his 10 bolt on DRs). I barked 2nd but that was it.
Really, I'm hoping the DA is just perfect that night. My 12.83 was corrected to a 12.6x so if its cold and not humind (with the track being at 400ft), I think I could knock some serious times down. Hoping for a DA of < 500.
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From: Between Bowling Green/Owensboro
Sway bar delete helps quite a bit, just tried it out two weeks ago and car launches much smoother. You can also bypass your power steering with a simple belt. I usually loose .1 or 1.5 ET with the belt.
I would say te 25 psi is a good idea.
Like said slipping the clutch isn't good but a few runs isn't going to make a noticeable difference in the life of the clutch.
Font sway bar is never going to hurt and is only a few minutes off and on. My big thing is remove it completely not just disconnect it! Many people just undo the end links and for me this is a waist of time. The 15 lbs off the nose is just as if not more important to me as letting the front sag faster.
Taking as much weight out is also going to help and never hurt. No need to gut the car but anything extra can be left at home.
The DA alone could be worth the time you are looking for. Just don't expect much more then what you ran last time. Then if you go faster then great. So many people set goals too high. I think you aren't looking for anything that isn't attainable just don't expect too much is all I am saying.
Like said slipping the clutch isn't good but a few runs isn't going to make a noticeable difference in the life of the clutch.
Font sway bar is never going to hurt and is only a few minutes off and on. My big thing is remove it completely not just disconnect it! Many people just undo the end links and for me this is a waist of time. The 15 lbs off the nose is just as if not more important to me as letting the front sag faster.
Taking as much weight out is also going to help and never hurt. No need to gut the car but anything extra can be left at home.
The DA alone could be worth the time you are looking for. Just don't expect much more then what you ran last time. Then if you go faster then great. So many people set goals too high. I think you aren't looking for anything that isn't attainable just don't expect too much is all I am saying.
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12 Second Club
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From: St. Peters, MO
I think the real gains will come frmo the extra ~10-20hp from the LS6 intake and a tune. That might be a tenth, all the small things add up to another tenth, and maybe the DA will crash and give me a little more than a tenth getting me a 12.4x 
Not too mention having a few more passes under my belt, considering I've only have 6 thus far.
Realistically, I'll be happy with a 12.6x (uncorrected) for street tires, stock clutch, 10 bolt etc. Anything lower and I will just have a bigger smile on my face.
Not too mention having a few more passes under my belt, considering I've only have 6 thus far. Realistically, I'll be happy with a 12.6x (uncorrected) for street tires, stock clutch, 10 bolt etc. Anything lower and I will just have a bigger smile on my face. 
