Solid roller on a street driven car?
You need, even with a smallish solid roller over 300/600 for pressure...
Springs on the 408 I have sitting here (for sale too) are 450 open 840 at coil bind, Cam is a 262/267 740 lift, for referance.
You need, even with a smallish solid roller over 300/600 for pressure...
Springs on the 408 I have sitting here (for sale too) are 450 open 840 at coil bind, Cam is a 262/267 740 lift, for referance.
These shaft systems today have no problems staying in check.
Back in the 50's, 60's, and early 70's when the OEM cars had solid lifters they only used the basic "locking nuts" (which were nothing more then an out of round threaded nut) and stamped steel rockers that would continuously creep out of adjustment. Trust me on this, I work on these cars (53-present date Corvettes)Monday through Friday.
Jesels carry a high price tag for a reason. They always work.
If you use a hydraulic, the T&D / Comp system is OK.
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Jesels carry a high price tag for a reason. They always work.
If you use a hydraulic, the T&D / Comp system is OK.
To the op, without knowing what lobes are on the cam,there is no way to tell how much spring pressure is needed. Some lobes(depending on the rest of the valvetrain) will be happy with 250-260 lbs of seat pressure and others need much more-the spring rate makes a huge difference as well. Either way,those patriot springs aren't going to cut it.
I don't know what you feel is correct geometry. You obviously see something different then I...
In my experience, I've found it physically impossible to use a T&D system on my solid roller builds.
Debating this with someone I don't know is senseless to me...
Last edited by Firehawk441; Oct 10, 2010 at 08:12 PM.






