Race wiring and removing teh BCM
 

My bcm is fucked, and im rewiring my car so i wanna delete it anyway.

I know that there is a brown wire that you feed a 12v source to to keep the power windows.

I know there is a yellow/blk wire that you have to ground to make sure the car starts.

Power locks dont work, i dont care about interior lights, radio is coming out.

Is there something im missing?

Please if youve done this explain to me everything i need to do

im in the same boat with the wiring but im going to fast xfi but want to keep the essentials like lights ,brakes and windows so any info you could help me with ill return the favor my dash has been out and ready to rewire lol

With the correct polarized switch I know for a fact that you can direct wire the window motors.

for the windows...need a 3-way switch and two relays per window...I have mine wired that way and they work fine...

http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/in...?topic=63983.0

I don't even know if I will put a relay in for the windows, I haven't checked the current draw, but if it's not over the switch's ability, I may just run the power thru the switch, and fuse it.

think you have to...in order to work you need the ability to reverse polarity on the wires...hence the need for two relays...

If ou can get one of those switches (power into the center lug, out on the top.bottom) that's a 2 pole deal (6 total lugs on the switch) I don't think you will have to.

I just looked in my waytek catalog, switch # 44324 is a 6 terminal double pole double throw momentary switch, if you put the power in the middle, and just flip the out's around you should be able to operate the window up and down, with no relay. As long as the window doesn't draw too much current for the switch to handle.


Fuse the incoming power for the window, and be done with it. Should be pretty strait forward....

Here is quick wiring diagram I did. Everything isn't added of course but I think this may work. If you cut the power to PCM the engine will not run. So that switch is the one that cuts power to everything. As it powers up the next switch. Which also powers up the fuse block.


http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g2...0rewiring1.jpg

maybe...but any current restriction will cause early window motor life...they have a hard enough time OEM...I didn't even use a fuse...just a self-resetting circuit breaker

With relays the window motors will probably last longer. As the stock wiring doesn't supply a full 14 volts to the motor. So the motor has to work harder to get the window up. With relays, and some new wiring that baby will work like it never has before.

When you put 16 volts to it, they really work good :nod:

I have one of these for each window, no relays.

http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/p1000.html

Essentially that's what I was looking at, just waytek's version. I'll have to place an order from them to get all the other wiring supplies I need when I am ready, so I was trying to get everything from one place, if I could.

just put a circuit breaker in line with the brown wire that goes to the window control module and they will work like factory.

I shit-canned all that stuff, I have 2 wires coming out of each door, that's IT. switches will be on the dash.... doors have a carbon fiber panel on them from DMH

thats what i was hopeing i could use cuz i wanna use stock switches and door panels for now

Fireball, the OEM controller works just fine. Just add +12 volts. :D

I wnat to know how to do this too, helping a friend that bought the painless 18circet kit. want to keep the power windows, stock doopanles and switchs still.

It won't work for shit if you ditch the stock door panels like he and I did, and can't use the stock switches.....

woops, we're talking two different things.

OP never mentioned ditching the OEM door panels on his initial post, but did mention keeping it just above my first response. :)

:chug: