Race wiring and removing teh BCM
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Race wiring and removing teh BCM
My bcm is fucked, and im rewiring my car so i wanna delete it anyway.
I know that there is a brown wire that you feed a 12v source to to keep the power windows.
I know there is a yellow/blk wire that you have to ground to make sure the car starts.
Power locks dont work, i dont care about interior lights, radio is coming out.
Is there something im missing?
Please if youve done this explain to me everything i need to do
I know that there is a brown wire that you feed a 12v source to to keep the power windows.
I know there is a yellow/blk wire that you have to ground to make sure the car starts.
Power locks dont work, i dont care about interior lights, radio is coming out.
Is there something im missing?
Please if youve done this explain to me everything i need to do
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for the windows...need a 3-way switch and two relays per window...I have mine wired that way and they work fine...
http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/in...?topic=63983.0
http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/in...?topic=63983.0
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If ou can get one of those switches (power into the center lug, out on the top.bottom) that's a 2 pole deal (6 total lugs on the switch) I don't think you will have to.
I just looked in my waytek catalog, switch # 44324 is a 6 terminal double pole double throw momentary switch, if you put the power in the middle, and just flip the out's around you should be able to operate the window up and down, with no relay. As long as the window doesn't draw too much current for the switch to handle.
Fuse the incoming power for the window, and be done with it. Should be pretty strait forward....
I just looked in my waytek catalog, switch # 44324 is a 6 terminal double pole double throw momentary switch, if you put the power in the middle, and just flip the out's around you should be able to operate the window up and down, with no relay. As long as the window doesn't draw too much current for the switch to handle.
Fuse the incoming power for the window, and be done with it. Should be pretty strait forward....
Last edited by JL ws-6; 02-03-2011 at 08:16 AM. Reason: found the catalog...
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#8
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Here is quick wiring diagram I did. Everything isn't added of course but I think this may work. If you cut the power to PCM the engine will not run. So that switch is the one that cuts power to everything. As it powers up the next switch. Which also powers up the fuse block.
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If ou can get one of those switches (power into the center lug, out on the top.bottom) that's a 2 pole deal (6 total lugs on the switch) I don't think you will have to.
I just looked in my waytek catalog, switch # 44324 is a 6 terminal double pole double throw momentary switch, if you put the power in the middle, and just flip the out's around you should be able to operate the window up and down, with no relay. As long as the window doesn't draw too much current for the switch to handle.
Fuse the incoming power for the window, and be done with it. Should be pretty strait forward....
I just looked in my waytek catalog, switch # 44324 is a 6 terminal double pole double throw momentary switch, if you put the power in the middle, and just flip the out's around you should be able to operate the window up and down, with no relay. As long as the window doesn't draw too much current for the switch to handle.
Fuse the incoming power for the window, and be done with it. Should be pretty strait forward....
maybe...but any current restriction will cause early window motor life...they have a hard enough time OEM...I didn't even use a fuse...just a self-resetting circuit breaker
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http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/p1000.html
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for the windows...need a 3-way switch and two relays per window...I have mine wired that way and they work fine...
http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/in...?topic=63983.0
http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/in...?topic=63983.0
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OP never mentioned ditching the OEM door panels on his initial post, but did mention keeping it just above my first response.