RARON455

iTrader: (35)

I am almost finished with my 4l80 Jakesperformance swap, I have the transbrake in it and have a few questions probably be easy for you.
I was running a t56 six speed, So I have the lingefelter box that has the rev limiter, and the timing retard.

1. Should I still run the rev-limiter? being an automatic, I dont know, when you use the transbrake You engage it and floor the car right? SO wont the converter limit my rpms on the transbrake? I have a billet converter from TCS that was specced for my stroker on the spray. Or should I run the limiter close to the stall speed of the converter?

2. How do you stage the car with the transbrake and pre-load the suspension, I would think that you would want to footbrake the car loading up the car and then lock in the brake?

3. I have a Line-Loc on the car also,, I am assuming I no longer need this correct? Once the car is loaded up on the transbrake I dont need to hold the brake pedal or use the line loc, Or am I mistaken.


4. To use the transbrake Is it best to use a pushbutton?? I have been looking at one of the switches that mounts on the steering wheel with one of the flexible cables, but not sure if this is how its done or not.

thanks for the advice fellas I am trying to get all this stuff figured out BEFORE I ever take the car to the track on this new setup.

SuperSlow02

iTrader: (16)

1. Yes, it gives you the same ability to limit you rpms to a certian range

2. I footbrake mine to the line then on first 1 light I hold the brake button and floor it. you dont want to stay on the brake very long.

3. still good for a burn out, but no you wont need it for launching, your car shouldnt move an inch on the brake

4. push button is best, I have mine on my hurst pistol grip

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

1) The rev limiter, should be in the tune. If you have the lingenfelter 2 step, you can still use that, you can wire it so that it comes on with the transbrake, so that when you're on the brake you can put your foot to the floor, and have the option of not putting the car up on the converter, this way you can control the amount of converter flash you can get... This is a very useful tool to get a car to leave as good as possible.

2) You stage the car with the footbrake, once you have both bulbs lit, on with the transbrake button, floor the car and off the footbrake, you don't really preload the suspension/driveline anymore.

3) Use your line lock as you did. Set it, get the tires spinning in 1st, pull 2nd and lay into it, give it a good 3 to 4 count, off with the line lock, power thru until the tires grab and then get out of it/on the brakes.

4) Yes, pushbutton will do it. You can activate a relay that will power the transbrake, and engage your 2 step at the same time, and then you just put your foot to the floor, and let go and let it eat. Pushbutton on the shifter is a good place for it, but you will get a better reaction time releasing the button with your index finger then you will with your thumb. Your finger is faster then your thumb is

If you have nitrous, or add that to the car you can use the 87 and 87a on a relay to break the nitrous power so that it's off when the transbrake is on and at the release the full hit comes on right out of the hole.

slow67

iTrader: (2)

You mean get the tires spinning in 2nd and shift to 3rd. This isn't a glide.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

If you want to do 2/3 go ahead. I don't find that to really be nessassary. 1-2 with a TH400 was always fine for me.. thing is to get it in 2nd quickly as soon as the tires are spinning so you don't have to reverse the drum direction.

slow67

iTrader: (2)

Right but if the tires catch its really hard on the intermediate sprag. Roll it and you have no 2nd gear.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Is that a 4l80 thing?

slow67

iTrader: (2)

Nope, th400s too.

Even still, starting burnouts in 1st is still hard on the low roller clutch (4L80s and th400s). Its not like starting burnouts in 2nd gear is hard....my stone stock 5.3 will do it with water from the water box (and I have highway gears too).

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

I hear ya, and I have heard this before, but then I'll talk to another guy and hear that it's not a problem....

I always, got the tires spinning in 1st and pulled 2nd right away... held the thing at about 5000 rpm... and then off with the line lock and powered thru until I heard a screach, and eased off the gas/onto the brakes. I never had an issue with that Th400 fwiw. I did at one point try starting them in 2nd and just leaving it in 2nd, tried pulling 3rd... I never had any better, or worse results so I always ended up back with the get them spinning in ist and immediately pull 2nd gear.

I dunno how much harder that can be on the trans then going down the track at WOT, with the tires spinning I would think it's alot easier on parts.

slow67

iTrader: (2)

Its not the spinning that hurts the parts, its more of a shifting while spinning at higher RPMs, or catching traction while spinning, it shocks the low roller clutch and the intermediate sprag......

Here is what happens from just chattering drag radials:
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=382346

If the roller clutch lets go, the direct drum does something similar to putting it into neutral at speed, but is tied to engine rpm instead of output shaft rpm....

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Nice. That's probably why I was told to get the thing into 2nd at a low rpm, and not go crazy revving it to the moon while doing the burnout. Like I said.. I never really spun the motor up that high, not really any need.

Good info to put out there.... I had 2 different tranny people tell me 2 totally differnt things on the subject so I never really paid any attention to it. Just always used 2nd and kept the rpm under 5000....


If the shifting at higher rpm's does that, if you are pulling 2nd and 3rd gear with an 8000 rpm shift point say... is the same risk being taken? It would seem to be...

subhumanzz

iTrader: (46)

2-3 here, this is what rossler told me to do. i dont remember exactly what the reason was but it was something with the drum.

JL ws-6

iTrader: (50)

Like I said I've heard several different things from different people.

I have been told 1 quck to 2 then quick to 3 and hold, others have told me 1 then quick to 2, some said just start in 2 and leave it there, others said 2 then 3, I was even told to just put it in 3 if you have enough power to do it.... I know that there's conflicting info there so I never paid any attention to it.. just tried to get it into 2nd as fast as possible and again, keep the rpm down during the whole thing.. if ya have to sit there for an extra count or 2 before the smoke is rolling, I would.

Never seemed to make a difference with on track performance.

Do whatever your tranny guy tells you.. if there's something that can be done differently that will effect this, they will know.

John02SS

iTrader: (47)

Rossler told me the same 2-3. Said same as above, if it bites hard coming out of the water in 2nd it is really hard on the sprag.

Fbodyjunkie06

iTrader: (10)

I am glad I found this thread. I have been worrying about staging my car and just everything that you guys have said about starting off in 1st and then shifting to 2nd as I have heard that also is bad. I will start in 2nd and shift to 3rd quickly once the turbo lights. I guess I will also have to really not care what my reaction times are like until I get used to the transbrake and staging with it. As long as I can pull my front tires I don't care what my R/T looks like lol.

mrdragster1970

.

Another never a low gear burnout guy, even with a glide I do high gear burnouts only.

I have used shifter mounted, and wheel mounted buttons, both work fine, just whatever you prefer.
When I ran a 8.50 car with a 400, the shift was pretty damn quick, so I used a shifter button.
Now I'm in a much faster car, and electric shifter, so I like both hands on the wheel.

I have always been quicker off a chip and giving the converter a running start.
Try a few test pass' and see what it likes, it won't take long to find the sweet spot.
It may like leaving against the converter?? but I've been doing this a week or 2, and mine never have.

Good luck.

.

slow67

iTrader: (2)

Yes, higher rpms will always be harder on the intermediate sprag (1-2 shift) as it has to bring the direct drum to a stop.