Tach, temp, and fuel gauges not working
Tach, temp, and fuel gauges not working Finally got my car back together and the tach, temp and fuel gauges aren't working. I was extra careful when I was removing wiring, but I hope I didn't cut one. Alt. and oil pressure and speedo all work. Fuse is good. They do jump a little when I first hit the key. Any thoughts? Thanks.
You say you got the car all back together. It would help if you explained what you had it torn down for and what you have modified since the gauges last functioned properly. There are two grounds that connect to the cluster and it is possible that one of them is not grounded. Also all the non-functioning components are fed by a single data wire(class 2 serial data signal) that could also cause lack of gauge function. This can be caused by the wire being disconnected or a short to ground anywhere in the data stream. You should get a DTC for class 2 communication error if there is a short.
This same thing happen to me and it was the the plug in connection that went into the steering colum. I had removed my dash.
It is easy to check. Remove the panel under the steering colum (2) pillips screws and (2) 7mm bolts. Once cover is removed, start the car, wiggle connections and see if guages start working. Also, unplug and plug connections back together to make sure ther is no corrosion on the terminal pins.
It is easy to check. Remove the panel under the steering colum (2) pillips screws and (2) 7mm bolts. Once cover is removed, start the car, wiggle connections and see if guages start working. Also, unplug and plug connections back together to make sure ther is no corrosion on the terminal pins.
You say you got the car all back together. It would help if you explained what you had it torn down for and what you have modified since the gauges last functioned properly. There are two grounds that connect to the cluster and it is possible that one of them is not grounded. Also all the non-functioning components are fed by a single data wire(class 2 serial data signal) that could also cause lack of gauge function. This can be caused by the wire being disconnected or a short to ground anywhere in the data stream. You should get a DTC for class 2 communication error if there is a short.
[QUOTE=Heyfred;15097616]This same thing happen to me and it was the the plug in connection that went into the steering colum. I had removed my dash.
You mean the same 3 gauges that I'm having trouble with?
You mean the same 3 gauges that I'm having trouble with?
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I had the same problem and it was a fuse in the side of the dash. I checked and re checked and one was barely popped and i didnt see it until I really actually payed attention. If all your connections are good that is the next place to check.. maybe with a test light to see if you have power to the right places?
Did you get your gauges working?
I told you the wrong connector to check.
Here is the one to check. It is under the dash, to the right of the steering column. It has a plug in the connection. Pull the plug out and reinstall.
I told you the wrong connector to check.
Here is the one to check. It is under the dash, to the right of the steering column. It has a plug in the connection. Pull the plug out and reinstall.
[QUOTE=Heyfred;15130244]Did you get your gauges working?
I told you the wrong connector to check.
Here is the one to check. It is under the dash, to the right of the steering column. It has a plug in the connection. Pull the plug out and reinstall.
No, they still aren't working. I'm taking it to my buddies shop Saturday and he's going to check it with his Snap on scanner.
I told you the wrong connector to check.
Here is the one to check. It is under the dash, to the right of the steering column. It has a plug in the connection. Pull the plug out and reinstall.
No, they still aren't working. I'm taking it to my buddies shop Saturday and he's going to check it with his Snap on scanner.
Last edited by ss2000; Jul 9, 2011 at 03:11 PM. Reason: spelling
All you need to do is twist all the wires together and solder them or put a good crimp connector. No need to put the splice pack back in. 
