Subframe connectors AND Cage overkill?
11-25-2011, 01:02 PM
#23
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there are a couple cheap rollers not to far from you, then you can strip it down and go pretty fast w/o cazy expensive parts or nitrous. a simple 6pt w/ swing outs is nice but will get old after a while at least to the wife. hell get a t/a and just swap tags to go to the track.
11-25-2011, 01:10 PM
#24
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how much you drive it too if it's alot it's better to have a desinated fast/race car. trust me been there done that best thing i ever did was get a full out race car instead of chase a street strip combo.
11-25-2011, 01:42 PM
#26
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I bought the car as a dual purpose car to start with but as it ended up we only drove it on the street when we were on our way to the track lol.. I bought it April 19th, made 5 trips to the track this year, and that was it.. As bad as it sounds I hated driving it to the track cause I didnt want to put anymore miles on the car which was a major motivation to not street drive it either.. If I still street raced the roll bar wouldnt be a big deal but I'm too old for that and all the legal problems that come along with it. I have a career and its not worth loosing my license and all that anymore. I honestly dont see the car every getting past the 6.50's in the 1/8 so I guess I will put the roll bar in, put a 12 bolt under it, drop in a 4L80E, and spray it as hard as I can lol.. I dont need a full out "race car". I just want a car that is stock appearing that can tear the hide off 99% of the cars on the road if need be.. It's kinda sad that where I am right now makes people think its fast.. I take people for rides and they are amazed how fast it is.. I guess you get used to it pretty quick cause I went from 8.70's in April to 7.50's in November and it honestly doesnt feel that different to me..
11-25-2011, 02:25 PM
#28
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i am de-modding my 4th gen as we speak. it got to where i never drove it because it drove like a dump truck, rattled/made noises, loud, and you had to baby it in parking lots because of the grabby clutch and the engine did not want to run very well at anything near an idle. i drove a stock LT1 car and it made me realize just how shitty i had made my car. so now im putting alot of stuff back to stock.
imo, if you have the room and a tow vehicle, i would buy a $1500 roller and build that instead. you could make it work alot better as a full on drag setup as opposed to trying to keep your other car somewhat streetable.
imo, if you have the room and a tow vehicle, i would buy a $1500 roller and build that instead. you could make it work alot better as a full on drag setup as opposed to trying to keep your other car somewhat streetable.
11-26-2011, 06:57 PM
#30
In my car I ran a 5 point with a completely removable driver door bar.only a nub off the hoop and 4 bolts 1" long coming through the floor when the bar was out. I hate climbing over bars while daily driving. Car ran low 10's in the 1/4 and was legal.
11-27-2011, 02:48 PM
#31
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I don't think a well designed roll bar will take away from the car at all, especially with removeable swing outs. Maybe I'm the wrong one to ask though. 
My poor WS6.........Lol
I will say though that I put subframes in the car not even 2 months after I bought it new in '98 and the t tops never leaked.
My poor WS6.........Lol
I will say though that I put subframes in the car not even 2 months after I bought it new in '98 and the t tops never leaked.
Sub frame connectors are almost an absolute must.
If you have the money & space... you will get allot more out of a dedicated race car, pick up a roller that already has suspension, axle and cage, it's allot cheaper than building it.
Which bars? Cross bar, yes. Door Bars no, rear bars can be bolted in and good till 10.5.
