Hardware for ABS Delete
Enlighten me please.
02-22-2012, 05:24 PM
#30
If you can't find the fitting, while your at the stores ask about the conversion lines. I know I've seen them too, you can get one 6, 8,10... long. I think they only come in that ugly green tubing, but it softer to bend easy. There not that long too, I don't recall seeing them over 12, so I dont think you can put the LL on the other side of the shock tower like I did without putting a ugly coupler in.
When your going to the back lines, if your car was 4channle ABS so you have 2 lines going to the back. If its easier you can only plum it, to one of the rear lines you have. If you still have the motor in the car its going to be hard to flair the stock lines, on the firewall, or frame like I did down out of the way were you can't see. You don't have to put the T in for the rear, just plum one of them. And buy a new rubber hose that goes to the rearend for a non TCS/ASR car that onlt had the one brake line anyway. Last year I changed my car form the 2 rear lines to the one when I put the strange brakes on.I cut the extra brackets for the 2nd line off, it saved 2 pounds going to the one line.
You can put the T under the car too, Remeve the Y pipe and the heat sheilds, whatever you need and get the lines out of the clips so they hang down 1 foot off the floor. And you have tons of room to work there. And you can pre bend the line outside the car and drop in down around your motor and headers, test fitting it from the pro. valve. That will look alot better then the SMJ kit that has the ugly T blocks right there in sight.
edit for Firebird Phoenix
When your going to the back lines, if your car was 4channle ABS so you have 2 lines going to the back. If its easier you can only plum it, to one of the rear lines you have. If you still have the motor in the car its going to be hard to flair the stock lines, on the firewall, or frame like I did down out of the way were you can't see. You don't have to put the T in for the rear, just plum one of them. And buy a new rubber hose that goes to the rearend for a non TCS/ASR car that onlt had the one brake line anyway. Last year I changed my car form the 2 rear lines to the one when I put the strange brakes on.I cut the extra brackets for the 2nd line off, it saved 2 pounds going to the one line.
You can put the T under the car too, Remeve the Y pipe and the heat sheilds, whatever you need and get the lines out of the clips so they hang down 1 foot off the floor. And you have tons of room to work there. And you can pre bend the line outside the car and drop in down around your motor and headers, test fitting it from the pro. valve. That will look alot better then the SMJ kit that has the ugly T blocks right there in sight.
edit for Firebird Phoenix
Last edited by studderin; 02-22-2012 at 05:38 PM.
02-22-2012, 08:59 PM
#31
Fwiw, I used a kit from quartermax that had all the -3 fittings, tube nuts for nice easy single 37 degree flares... came with enough line to do the whole car (steel not stainless) and worked out great.
For the money it was about the easiest way to do the whole thing. I put the burkhart master in at the same time, did aerospace brakes at all 4 corners, same 3/16 line to all 4 wheels. No problems.
I will be redoing them now once the chassis is done, and would like to use stainless line but I know that stuff is a bear to bend, and flare... I'll need alot better flare tool then what I currently have for sure to do it I'm 100% on that, and the cost for a car that will never get wet, may not be worth it.
Fwiw I never had a prop. valve in the brakes once I redid them and went to a manual setup. If the master is setup right I don't think it's really needed.
For the money it was about the easiest way to do the whole thing. I put the burkhart master in at the same time, did aerospace brakes at all 4 corners, same 3/16 line to all 4 wheels. No problems.
I will be redoing them now once the chassis is done, and would like to use stainless line but I know that stuff is a bear to bend, and flare... I'll need alot better flare tool then what I currently have for sure to do it I'm 100% on that, and the cost for a car that will never get wet, may not be worth it.
Fwiw I never had a prop. valve in the brakes once I redid them and went to a manual setup. If the master is setup right I don't think it's really needed.
02-22-2012, 09:41 PM
#32
Did you see what parts hes using, and what the thread is asking to do?
He doesn't have a 37* fitting anywhere on the car. So he should get a kit with a so 37* -3 AN stuff. Then you would need fitting for the stock M1x bubble flairs in his master, to a 37* -3 AN. Got a Link for that, I dont even think they make them? Then you can run -3An braided lines to ????? a NPT SLP linelock he already has a fittings for 1/4 SAE double flare?
He has the stock the stock master, and stock brakes
Thats a strange/dodge master.
He has the stock the stock master, and stock brakes
He has the stock the stock master, and stock brakes
He has the stock the stock master, and stock brakes
He has the stock the stock master, and stock brakes
I will be redoing them now once the chassis is done, and would like to use stainless line but I know that stuff is a bear to bend, and flare... I'll need alot better flare tool then what I currently have for sure to do it I'm 100% on that, and the cost for a car that will never get wet, may not be worth it.
Fwiw I never had a prop. valve in the brakes once I redid them and went to a manual setup. If the master is setup right I don't think it's really needed.
Fwiw I never had a prop. valve in the brakes once I redid them and went to a manual setup. If the master is setup right I don't think it's really needed.
02-23-2012, 07:52 AM
#33
Yes you can get an adapter that will run from the stock master to 3/16 that's not a problem, then run the rst of the car in 3/16 line. I did this with 2 cars, that both had stock master cyl's and stock brakes on them and it worked fine. You will need to double flare a couple joints, at the slp LL I had one of those in my junk and reused it, no problem running a double flare there for that one line.
You can get an adapter fitting to run a 3/16 stainless line at the stock brakes as well, I will try to go thru and find the part #'s for everything, a couple of the fittings came from a plumbing supply store, rest were from my local Napa.
You have to do a little work to find the adapters but they are out there. As for the larger diameter line to the rear brakes, and the prop. valve last car I did none of that was in there at all. Car stopped fine, no issues with the front or rear locking up with stock 17 inch wheels or with a drag rim setup on it. I mean sure if you try to lock them up and do something stupid sure you probably could but if the driver has any sense at all it's not an issue.
And I would, get the adapters and run that 3/16 line with a tube nut connection to a single T in the rear and one T off the front then run a single line to each wheel after both T's, that would be the easiest way to do it, and if you have to take it apart the tube nut fittings are easy to deal with, flare's are about 1/2 the work as well.
You can get an adapter fitting to run a 3/16 stainless line at the stock brakes as well, I will try to go thru and find the part #'s for everything, a couple of the fittings came from a plumbing supply store, rest were from my local Napa.
You have to do a little work to find the adapters but they are out there. As for the larger diameter line to the rear brakes, and the prop. valve last car I did none of that was in there at all. Car stopped fine, no issues with the front or rear locking up with stock 17 inch wheels or with a drag rim setup on it. I mean sure if you try to lock them up and do something stupid sure you probably could but if the driver has any sense at all it's not an issue.
And I would, get the adapters and run that 3/16 line with a tube nut connection to a single T in the rear and one T off the front then run a single line to each wheel after both T's, that would be the easiest way to do it, and if you have to take it apart the tube nut fittings are easy to deal with, flare's are about 1/2 the work as well.
02-24-2012, 04:49 PM
#36
Thanks everyone. I've been alittle busy lately, so I haven't looked anymore for the adaptor for the master.
What kind of fittings come with the Milwood PP. Does it come ready for 3/16" line or is it a NPT fitting.
Motor is out of the car.
What kind of fittings come with the Milwood PP. Does it come ready for 3/16" line or is it a NPT fitting.
Motor is out of the car.
02-27-2012, 02:47 PM
#38
Yup NPT. I think it dose come with 2 strait ones. My summit ones did (1st one wouldn't beed after drag brakes?) bench bleed, and cleaned it out. But it was asking like a closed valve, so just bought a new one.
I put a 90* fitting on mine too. If its not going to tighten up way off form were you want it to, you can tape it another 1/4-1/2 thread deeper, and it will fix that. You can get a 45* fitting to .
I put a 90* fitting on mine too. If its not going to tighten up way off form were you want it to, you can tape it another 1/4-1/2 thread deeper, and it will fix that. You can get a 45* fitting to .
03-03-2012, 10:24 AM
#40
Found the fitting, it's a AN Male To Metric Flare Adaptor.
-3AN x -12mm x 1.00 Male Flare.
That fits the master cylinder, then you get a -03AN Tube Nut and Tube Sleeve, that will fit on your 3/16" brake line. Slid the nut and sleeve on your brake line then flare the line to a 37 degree single flare.
Found it all at Godman Hi-Performance. Memphis, Tn. 1-800-456-2369
Cost around $13.00 total.
-3AN x -12mm x 1.00 Male Flare.
That fits the master cylinder, then you get a -03AN Tube Nut and Tube Sleeve, that will fit on your 3/16" brake line. Slid the nut and sleeve on your brake line then flare the line to a 37 degree single flare.
Found it all at Godman Hi-Performance. Memphis, Tn. 1-800-456-2369
Cost around $13.00 total.