Using stock steering rack wo the pump in a race application
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From: SPRINGFIELD MISSOURI
Using stock steering rack wo the pump in a race application Just wandered if anyone has just not used their power steering pump and took it off and used your stock steering rack and just made the hoses and loop into each other on the rack. Has anyone ran this vs doing a manual rack set up. The car is never driven on the street if anyone ask.
Trying to push something that is designed to use fluid to move makes it waaaay harder then it needs to be. IF your going that route, put a manual rack in it. Also if the car has a spool, I feel bad for you as trying to push a car that has that was incredibly tough @ 3000 race weight.
When driving, you should be "ok" but if your not making fwd progress and trying to turn, its very tough.
IF you can, disconnect the belt and drive it and see how you like it.
When driving, you should be "ok" but if your not making fwd progress and trying to turn, its very tough.
IF you can, disconnect the belt and drive it and see how you like it.
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From: Your girl's back door giving her the long stroke while you're at work
I ran mine like that, just cut the stock lines and put a loop of rubber hose on. Simple.
Does clean the engine bay up some and will get ya by until you feel like putting a manual rack in.
Street driving with a skinny tire will be fine, stock width 275 would be a bitch I would think, never tried that but I'm sure it wouldn't be a ton of fun trying to park the car anywhere.
Does clean the engine bay up some and will get ya by until you feel like putting a manual rack in.
Street driving with a skinny tire will be fine, stock width 275 would be a bitch I would think, never tried that but I'm sure it wouldn't be a ton of fun trying to park the car anywhere.
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I agree with JL.
What I can say is running just a U/D pully, it was noticeable on turning with a hyd steering rack and stock Ws.6 17's. But with my 15 x 4 Convos turned very nice. Your just going to have to put more effort into it.
Just remember, everyone tolerance or what they can/want to deal with is different. Some love it, some hate it, some deal with it since its weight and cleans up the bay. Everyone needs to make the decision that works for them. If I ran skinnes and spool 100% of the time. I would just pony up for a K-member and appropriate rack and be done with it.
Just my 2 cents.
What I can say is running just a U/D pully, it was noticeable on turning with a hyd steering rack and stock Ws.6 17's. But with my 15 x 4 Convos turned very nice. Your just going to have to put more effort into it.
Just remember, everyone tolerance or what they can/want to deal with is different. Some love it, some hate it, some deal with it since its weight and cleans up the bay. Everyone needs to make the decision that works for them. If I ran skinnes and spool 100% of the time. I would just pony up for a K-member and appropriate rack and be done with it.
Just my 2 cents.
I but a SLP U/D Pulley which has a high wall to avoid that or you can get a solid tensioner, should keep your in a good place. OR if your real worried, go for the elec W/P (race or street based on your needs)
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From: Your girl's back door giving her the long stroke while you're at work
midwestjunk
I run my setup like that with an underdrive pulley and a Katech adjustable tensioner, I've never thrown a belt and I used to shift my car at 7100-7200
I run my setup like that with an underdrive pulley and a Katech adjustable tensioner, I've never thrown a belt and I used to shift my car at 7100-7200
I have been running my stock rack with the lines wide open for 8+ years. Street drive it like that for 6 years, and mainly a track only car the last 2. I have had no issues at all. I just took the fittings out of the rack, and ran it. Every car that I have seen with a actual manual rack has terrible turning radius. I area's that I can make a single turn they have to make multuple point turns.
If I didn't have the motor plate I would have ran it the same way, and if I had to run the belt to the water pump like you are, as already stated I would put the other idler back on and get some more wrap on the water pump that way, and probably run a solid tensioner anyway just to be safe. Not sorth throwing that belt, thing can fly off and hit other stuff, damage something, etc. For the cost of the solid tensioner I would just do it.
I have a manual rack but I would like to know this also for future reference on other cars. I tried to find a fitting to loop mine and Napa told me it was metric and they didn't have any fittings for that application.
It allows you to swing the alternator in order to tighten the belt down. In other words you don't run a tensioner and the belt tension is adjusted like an old school belt setup. I only run an alternator so it works out pretty nice plus eliminates the weight of the factory bracket an any other useless pullies.