M6 ET streets suck
10-21-2012, 09:08 PM
#41
I got the 28 inch QTP and still blowing this f-ers up.
I have the front and rears set really loose but I just hit the tire to hard and they break loose. 1.92 is the best i've done doing a 3500 dump and bog. I havent had a ton of seat time 5 runs and there all 1.90's, I just have semi controled spin with them dumping at 6k and feathering the gas. PSI is been as low as 14.5 still ripping them up.
Getting tired of it ready to go auto and give up on the dual purpose car.
I have the front and rears set really loose but I just hit the tire to hard and they break loose. 1.92 is the best i've done doing a 3500 dump and bog. I havent had a ton of seat time 5 runs and there all 1.90's, I just have semi controled spin with them dumping at 6k and feathering the gas. PSI is been as low as 14.5 still ripping them up.
Getting tired of it ready to go auto and give up on the dual purpose car.
10-21-2012, 09:28 PM
#42
you could try putting some tubes in them to stiffen them up. Other wise just get some slicks and bolt them on when you get to the track. Thats what I did for years, never liked the et streets even had 28x11.50's and couldn't get them to work near as well. If you really tried slipping the clutch I bet your 60's would improve but I really don't care much for doing that...
10-21-2012, 09:44 PM
#43
check the angle on your lca's. If you have too much its gonna smash the rim into the ground and then unload the tire. You want to be around 2 degrees down to the rearend at ride height. If thats ok, you might need to adjust the torque arm to get a better IC.
10-21-2012, 09:56 PM
#44
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Gotta keep playin with the shocks. That and your clutch dump.
I was at empire today with my M6 camaro and et streets cutting
1.4 60' all day long. Don't give up yet. You'll be surprised what
A couple clicks can do. Do you have any video of your launches?
I was at empire today with my M6 camaro and et streets cutting
1.4 60' all day long. Don't give up yet. You'll be surprised what
A couple clicks can do. Do you have any video of your launches?
10-21-2012, 10:34 PM
#45
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I'm with you on this bud. I tried all year to make 275/60/15 MT drag radials hook. I've found someone with an automatic to buy them so I can put on a slick and let the car run like it wants to. My best 60ft has been a 1.92 with the best track prep it's seen all year and great weather.
I learned my lesson with drag radials. Keep them on automatic cars. I don't want to spend all my time at the track dicking around with six thousand little tricks to maybe cut a 1.7. I'd rather launch hard consistently and perfect my skills getting the car down the track and run some nice times. Nothing more frustrating than running an 11 second car in the 12's because of a junky launch.
I learned my lesson with drag radials. Keep them on automatic cars. I don't want to spend all my time at the track dicking around with six thousand little tricks to maybe cut a 1.7. I'd rather launch hard consistently and perfect my skills getting the car down the track and run some nice times. Nothing more frustrating than running an 11 second car in the 12's because of a junky launch.
10-21-2012, 11:14 PM
#48
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Were you at the track today? I had the black SS. I was there with
Studderin. My build thread- https://ls1tech.com/forums/drag-raci...ld-thread.html
10-21-2012, 11:25 PM
#50
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For sure. Johnny helped me alot with getting my susp set up.
We dialed it in last week at the LSX shootout in Indy.
Cut consistent 1.4 60''s all day today at empire.
10-22-2012, 09:02 AM
#53
Picked it up in cali earlier this year, been racing on and off all year with it. I saw the owner he kept giving me looks but didnt walk over. It runs okay, puting a 6 point in it and 408 over the winter or early spring.
Looking at the vids the front end seems to move around pretty good. I've been thinking about this, if the front lifts the first few inches really easy then when the front end actually comes off the ground, wouldnt the weight being increased so dramaticly cause the *** end to deload? If its not that it would have to do with the drive line angle pinion is -1.5. I have strange single coil overs up front and QAL one single in the back, body mount toque arm, adjustable control arms and pan hard bar. Got any idea's?
Looking at the vids the front end seems to move around pretty good. I've been thinking about this, if the front lifts the first few inches really easy then when the front end actually comes off the ground, wouldnt the weight being increased so dramaticly cause the *** end to deload? If its not that it would have to do with the drive line angle pinion is -1.5. I have strange single coil overs up front and QAL one single in the back, body mount toque arm, adjustable control arms and pan hard bar. Got any idea's?
10-22-2012, 09:23 AM
#54
Your video's don't help a whole lot. It's hard to see whats going on.
You say you have the shocks loose in the front and back.
My guess is - the rear shocks need tightened, start halfway up. This will help slow down the hit to the tire, and allow transfer.
Depending where the torque arm is - it might need moved down, and the lower control arms will need to be played with to control the anti squat.
It'll take awhile to get it sorted out - different car/drivers/tracks like different things. Once you get the instant center and anti squat sorted out - you can fine tune it with the shocks.
You say you have the shocks loose in the front and back.
My guess is - the rear shocks need tightened, start halfway up. This will help slow down the hit to the tire, and allow transfer.
Depending where the torque arm is - it might need moved down, and the lower control arms will need to be played with to control the anti squat.
It'll take awhile to get it sorted out - different car/drivers/tracks like different things. Once you get the instant center and anti squat sorted out - you can fine tune it with the shocks.
10-22-2012, 09:49 PM
#56
Bias-ply and radial-ply tires behave quite differently. Some people reading this thread may get confused because Mickey Thompson uses the name “ET Street” to identify both types of DOT-approved drag tires. And although MT uses the names “ET Street” and “ET Street Radial” to distinguish between the two, the distinction often gets lost.
10-23-2012, 08:09 PM
#57
Looks like the 408 is going in early, going to gut the car out put a 6 point bar in it and then start playing with the suspension in the spring.
Any one recomend a good roll bar to install for a amature to install? I can mig weld well just looking for something I dont have to cut and trim like crazy to fit. Wolf seems to be the norm, MWC sell them as a kit?
Any one recomend a good roll bar to install for a amature to install? I can mig weld well just looking for something I dont have to cut and trim like crazy to fit. Wolf seems to be the norm, MWC sell them as a kit?