But your bumper supports are swiss cheese along with other parts lol
I dont think he wants to even touch the safety stuff?

 

take the dash out and remove the heater core and blower motor along with the ducting for the air vents, and cut some of the use less metal off the dash. That alone would be worth a large portion of your goal.

 

On the first pic, you can get rid of the bracket toward the front. Mine has been gone for years. I even removed that big plastic bracket for a while, but I put it back on because the bumper gets out of wack to much.

You have inspired me to do this 100lb challenge. I am at 40lbs so for after a few hours of work. I'm wanting 6.9x in the 1/8 mile and I have done 7.03 on a good night. I think 100lbs may get me there.

 

Glad I could help , This challenge might be easier for some than others. For me things like my motor lift brackets, egr, abs, etc were all deleted already. So for me I really need to scrounge around to find some creative spots. I have a number of things I want to do, just need to find myself some time. Hopefully this weekend I'll jump from 7 to atleast 15-20lbs.

I am going to leave the heat in there as I need it for defog and well this is Canada and it's already cold as **** up here.

What kind of metal are we talking about behind the dash? Do you have any pictures? I know there is a metal bracket below the steering wheel. I know I won't get to behind the dash anytime soon, but it has been one of the places I have been pretty curious about as I am sure there is a ton of unneeded crap back there.


Anyone know about this rolling resistance issue that was brought up? My front wheels do not turn nearly as freely as they should and I would love to fix that.

 

In for more weigh reduction ideas. Good luck!

 

There is lots of excess metal in those. The design of it gives it it's strength, done right and the holes don't really matter much to the strength of it. Besides....he got rid of the abs....that is safety stuff.

 

Check your sliders, clean them and out new grease on them.

 

the thing about ABS is its just not the Block under the hood. If you look into it that's only a small part of it. It has a LOT of wiring you can remove, (about a 10x10x10 box) makes it alot simpler to work on the car. No harness running to the back, along the rear end, and on the front A arms. You can remove the tone rings off the axles, makes pulling the axles easier and faster. Change wheel studs easier, cheaper aftermarket rearend. And if you have 4channle you can remove one of the rear brake lines. That was 2 pounds right there.

If you want to keep ABS, you can save some weight by removing that black cast bracket that mount the block. And replace it with a simple short bar of alum with a little twist in it. Going from only one, of the 4 holes it used on the inside frame rail, to one side of it. I think that stock bracket was 6-7 pounds.

Its all the little thinks like that. Your on the right track, nothing is stupid it all adds up. Take the car apart and only put back on the bare min to go what you need. Take a bucket and fill it up with all the little parts, sheilds, and bolts, metal dust. Its not that hard to get 20-50 pounds in it. The do that as many times as you can
I still have heat, Ttops,PW,PL,Keyfob,radio. Some heavy parts I can, and want to change out (s60 -50 going to a fab9 with light parts), steel DS -10 to alum, older heavy Torque arm, ands steel Xmember mount (-10 15?) (20 pounds in wiring) steel Kemeber with a rack adapter mount to a 4130 Kmeber with rack mounts will be 10-15lighter.
I added a 30pound SFI bellhousing, and trans fuild pump system, more oil lines and a bigger filter system, hegither intake, TB, and duct system. I'm still well under 3K race weight, with the rollbar, helmet,fire jacket, mufflers, and all the required stuff

 

I hope you are hitting those metal pieces you are cutting with some rustoleum when you are done.

Love this goal, I want to do the same thing, keep the pictures coming I am going to use your ideas this winter.

 

I've been over mine a few rounds already so things are getting more difficult for me also. I have had all that stuff gone for a long time. You can do away with the radiator support piece that your air cleaner goes on and put aluminum straps on there. You can save the piece that the filter sits in. It is a rectangle plastic piece. You can take the clips off and screw them into the lid and they still work. I will have to snap a pic of the lid mod.

Here is another idea if you still are keeping all four seats. In the rear you can remove the seat back and it weighs a lot. You can still sit comfortably in the back seat and IMO it sits better because you have more room.

Here is some of the weights I got out (I'm still tasting metal ) :

Horns 1lb 2-3/4oz

Removed the hood adjuster brackets by drilling out the spot welds 2lbs 9-1/2oz combined

Fog light switch 3/4oz


interior trim:

piece that goes along door sill and around hood release Driver is 1lb 1oz and Passenger is 14-1/8oz

Sail panels 4lbs 4oz combined

Console lid only 1lb 8oz

Rear speaker panels not counting speakers 3lb 6oz combined

Rear piece that cover the trunk area that folds. I'm not sure the name for it, but it weighed 4lb 3-3/4oz

Seat belt guide on front seat 1-3/4oz each


Rear seat bottom 3lbs 1oz each









Alarm sensor 2-1/8 oz



Rubber coating in the Ttop well weighed 2lbs 9oz Heat it up before scraping.






hole sawed the bracket for the trunk release and got out about 7oz





The fender bracket can be done without if you adjust your fender just right. Removing both sides saves you 12-3/4oz. Also in this pic, part of the fender crumple zone that I didn't cut out when I cut out the crumple zone. The two sides weighed 2lbs 7oz combined
before

after


Passenger headlight bracket I lost 9oz. This counts the fog light bracket that I drilled the spot welds out of. This does not include the removable bracket that hooks to the back of the headlight and then to the radiator support. I got rid of that a long time ago and I don't know what it weighs.




Driver headlight bracket I lost 10oz. Same goes for the small bracket that was already gone.


Here is the radiator support:



Here is mine when I had it apart for the cage you can see some cutting I did at the bottom of the radiator area, but I don't know how much weight it was because that was several years ago:

 

Id PM Hio if I were you.....

He has a lot of neat ideas and it doesn't make car any less driveable or safe....

 

Holy wow, some really good ideas flying around in here.

Here is my update. I Didn't get nearly as much done this weekend as I intended since I had some stuff to take care of before I take it to New York this next coming weekend.

I didn't manage to get that other sway bar bracket off, maybe tomorrow.

On a good note though, I'm sitting at 13lb successfully reduced from the car, meaning just 87 more pounds to go!! (but I rather smash this challenge and get more). 3lbs of that is from the sound deadening that is in the trunk from factory. I estimate another 2lbs left on the floor of the trunk that I still need to scrape off.

I also chopped off the bracket for the spare tire, but I haven't smoothed the piece down yet. Pictures can all be found in the link on the first page, or in my signature.

brandonppr, I was actually about to do that to the trunk release bracket today, except not to that extent. Is that bracket still strong enough swiss cheesed that much? wow

What rubber coating is that in the ttop well? (I am hardtop) but since we are all technically "t-top" I wonder if that is hiding somewhere I can't see it??

 

The trunk release is still pretty strong. I think I could take more out really using smaller bits.

This coating was in the bottom of the pan where the Ttops sit under the carpet. Some is on the very bottom and there is one small patch on the front side and a larger patch on the back side just below the trunk release bracket. There were two more small patches on top of the frame rails on each side of the well between the spare tire well and the well on the driver side.

 

Got it, that's exactly what I have been scraping at today. I took off everything off the side walls of that lower trunk area and it was worth just over 3lbs. I am guestimating that the remaining bit on the floor area of the trunk is probably about 2lbs.

I plan on holesawing the little brackets that are spot welded by the trunk area where you clip your rear plastic trunk sail panels into. I think I can get a 1 or 1.5" bit on them. There is 6 total if I am not mistaken.

I'll get pics when I do it so people can see what I am talking about.

I also found a nice little section of that rubber sound deadning stuff by the front driverside firewall that I totally forgot about. The bad news to that is, I definetly feel like I got rust holes behind what's there...and that's a kick in the nuts. One of the main reasons I was pulling that crap to begin with, it just traps water up against the firewall area and rots the damn area out

 

http://www.hawksthirdgenparts.com/pr...kets-Pair.html

 

Natural weight reduction

 

Well I am at approximately the 20% completed mark to meeting this goal. Today I managed to finally get the passenger side sway bar bracket off the car. I then turned over to the cruise control unit and cable and axed that. I updated a couple pics on my site. Man does getting rid of that cruise control unit free up space.

Total weight removed to date: 19.25lbs

 

Keep it up man your getting there and how much do the sun visors weigh anyway?

 

I actually haven't taken those out to weigh em yet. I've tried to stick to stuff you can't see for now, and if need be I'll go back and take out things like the visors.

 

I did a lot of cutting and weight reduction. Click my build thread in my sig for more ideas. Still have a few ideas I can get a few more pounds out of it.