Stock Door Removal
11-11-2012, 01:30 AM
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Stock Door Removal When you remove the stock door bars does it affect anything besides losing weight? Im checking into doing this on my street/strip car and wanna know if its a bad idea for something on the street? I have a 6 point cage also. Shoot me some opinions
11-15-2012, 05:00 PM
#6
you can get the bars out the hole for the groomet in the door jam. Just pull it out of the door hole, and keep the wires to one side out if the way.
You need to remove the inner wheel liner with the door closed to slid the bars out, if you have skinnys you can just turn the wheel out all the way, wide tires you need to remove.
I still have my stock door crash bars, my cars light, under 3K race weight. But that 14#s Im keeping. The stock doors are fiberglass/plasitc you can kick right tho them. In a crash they just break apart. Even with the cage door bar, that right on your arm and close to side of you chest. So its only got to get bent a little and its into your body. If you get T boned or hit anything solid on that side nothing gona stop it till it bends the cage door bar into you. At least the stock door bar is a few more inches away, and it bolts to the upper door hinge, and that black Lug in the back of the door jam. So its gona pull the firewall in, and the back of the door jam taking up alot of force. Over just bending the cage bar into you, its up to you. If you street drive the car I wouldn't do it.
and camaros have less room the firebirds, the doors and rear wheel wells are wider.
The best way I found to get the 2 10mm bolts out. Is to go to harbor freight or what ever cheap *** tool store and get 2 normal open/box end 10mm wrenches. Cut the box ends off about a inch down, (about a 1/4 off the length) and weld them at the 90* off the rest of the wrench (left over 3/4 of the wrench with the open end) The box end will have a little tilt that fits inside the slash cut of the round door bar, your see more when you get one out. Do one to the left and one to the right, So you have a L and backwards looking L. that fits great in the ends of the bar to get them out a little at a time.
The other ends has one bolt, its 13mm or 15mm, or I think diffrent cars they changed? But just use the thin socket from a serpentine belt tool, and the short arm for that tool. Or buy a check scoket for that size and weld it to a bar of thin 1/8 steel, just 9-12inch long to get it loose. A thin bar you can bend to fit in the door better too. there been some good threads on this, with pics off the door bars out. find them your'll see about more what your dealing with. Once you get the one out you go. Oh ya. now I see that MF how the bolt was in the bar. and the other side takes 5mins. I htink I posted pics of the wrenchs I made too?
You need to remove the inner wheel liner with the door closed to slid the bars out, if you have skinnys you can just turn the wheel out all the way, wide tires you need to remove.
I still have my stock door crash bars, my cars light, under 3K race weight. But that 14#s Im keeping. The stock doors are fiberglass/plasitc you can kick right tho them. In a crash they just break apart. Even with the cage door bar, that right on your arm and close to side of you chest. So its only got to get bent a little and its into your body. If you get T boned or hit anything solid on that side nothing gona stop it till it bends the cage door bar into you. At least the stock door bar is a few more inches away, and it bolts to the upper door hinge, and that black Lug in the back of the door jam. So its gona pull the firewall in, and the back of the door jam taking up alot of force. Over just bending the cage bar into you, its up to you. If you street drive the car I wouldn't do it.
and camaros have less room the firebirds, the doors and rear wheel wells are wider.
The best way I found to get the 2 10mm bolts out. Is to go to harbor freight or what ever cheap *** tool store and get 2 normal open/box end 10mm wrenches. Cut the box ends off about a inch down, (about a 1/4 off the length) and weld them at the 90* off the rest of the wrench (left over 3/4 of the wrench with the open end) The box end will have a little tilt that fits inside the slash cut of the round door bar, your see more when you get one out. Do one to the left and one to the right, So you have a L and backwards looking L. that fits great in the ends of the bar to get them out a little at a time.
The other ends has one bolt, its 13mm or 15mm, or I think diffrent cars they changed? But just use the thin socket from a serpentine belt tool, and the short arm for that tool. Or buy a check scoket for that size and weld it to a bar of thin 1/8 steel, just 9-12inch long to get it loose. A thin bar you can bend to fit in the door better too. there been some good threads on this, with pics off the door bars out. find them your'll see about more what your dealing with. Once you get the one out you go. Oh ya. now I see that MF how the bolt was in the bar. and the other side takes 5mins. I htink I posted pics of the wrenchs I made too?
Last edited by studderin; 11-15-2012 at 05:11 PM.
11-15-2012, 11:09 PM
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Alright thanks for the info, much appreciated. Though you do have me worried about removing them and the safety risks. I mean 14lbs isnt worth risking death or anything like that.