Drag brakes in the rear
Drag brakes in the rear I'm curious if anybody has drag brakes on the rear only with stock brakes in the front. I like to drive my car on the street from time to time and was wondering if this could help save any weight and still keep the car somewhat good enough to brake in town for short drives.
I did it for a couple of months until I had enough money to do the fronts. I didn't have any issues with driving short distances to local car cruises and things of that nature. However, the manufacturers of the brakes will not recommend street driving on a drag brake.
I ran willwood rears with there little dyanlight calipers and stock fronts. Saved about 11pounds per side and cleared prostars without any grinding. It drove and stopped fine I didnt notice any change. Fronts do like 90% of your braking, somthing like that I bet you know already.
Thanks for the input guys. I may have to do this since there are just so many more wheel choices to choose from.
Studderin, do you have a link or part number to the wilwoods you were running?
Studderin, do you have a link or part number to the wilwoods you were running?
not sure, I got them in trade. they still have the E brake (smaller drum in the rotor hat, if you look that up, there the only style with that caliper. ther not cheap I think retail was somthing like 680$ on them. More then strange
http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/Bra...aro&option=All Disc Brake Rear.
Simply choose Your wheel diameter, then shop for the style You want, pay no attention to the pricing, I will provide You with very good prices on the kit You select!
Thank You,
Carl
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Verdad Gallardo I think you can get it with a 2part rotor, and get the that in alum. if you dont want to use the Ebrake and safe more weight. I looking into it a little on there site, they sell a lot of different spec hats, and rotor.
But I would just get a strange kit then, and use a non vented rotor. That kit has a vented rotor but its alot thinner then stock. But the more weight in the rotor more heat it will take.
On the drag brakes on the street thing. My cars under 3K full street mode, it stops fine, better (more gripper) with F/R strange drag brakes. In stop and go, when the rotors and pads get warm its even too grippy. at slow under 35 speeds, I don't care, but noticed passengers not really for it move up the harness (people don't keep them tight). But the best way I can say it changes things is, you can only remove 130mph per 10mins. So you can do a 0-150 and stop just like stock brakes (if anything to stop better the last -50 then there hot) But you can't do that back to back, they dont take any more heat and start to fade. Your probably melting the pads, or boiling the fluid or something bad. But if you cruise for a few mins they cool down and go back to normal. You can do 2-3 40-80 pulls 2nd-3rd gear back to back. But you don't dont really want to be doing it more then that on the street anyway. You get out of that that area, haha. You don't want to race bikes 2-3 times, like bike guys want to redo on the hyway.
A car over 3300 I wouldn't run them on the front. Even that and under I would be carful, but having you car in the 2700 you can do it
But I would just get a strange kit then, and use a non vented rotor. That kit has a vented rotor but its alot thinner then stock. But the more weight in the rotor more heat it will take.
On the drag brakes on the street thing. My cars under 3K full street mode, it stops fine, better (more gripper) with F/R strange drag brakes. In stop and go, when the rotors and pads get warm its even too grippy. at slow under 35 speeds, I don't care, but noticed passengers not really for it move up the harness (people don't keep them tight). But the best way I can say it changes things is, you can only remove 130mph per 10mins. So you can do a 0-150 and stop just like stock brakes (if anything to stop better the last -50 then there hot) But you can't do that back to back, they dont take any more heat and start to fade. Your probably melting the pads, or boiling the fluid or something bad. But if you cruise for a few mins they cool down and go back to normal. You can do 2-3 40-80 pulls 2nd-3rd gear back to back. But you don't dont really want to be doing it more then that on the street anyway. You get out of that that area, haha. You don't want to race bikes 2-3 times, like bike guys want to redo on the hyway.
A car over 3300 I wouldn't run them on the front. Even that and under I would be carful, but having you car in the 2700 you can do it
Studderin, thanks for sharing your experience. I'm considering the brakes for my TA since the only reason I got the Camaro was to DD it and the TA is just not civlized for everyday driving anymore lol. The TA is probably at 3100 with out me in it and there is still alot of crap to cut/pull out. I would never think of drag brakes front/rear at that weight. Just wanted to see if people had any experience with them on the rears until I can get the car light enough to run them on the front. That and having drag brakes opens the door for more wheel choices since alot of people run the same wheels now.
I'm currently running Strange bakes on the front with stock out back. I honestly can't tell a difference from how it felt with all stock. At least not around town, and the pedal actually feels better with the steel lines. I'm about the same weight as you too. I definitely wouldn't worry about running drag brakes on the rear with stock fronts.
ya if your looking to get even lighter, I would get the strange rear for now. the Ebrake stuff going to the backing plate was like 12? I posted it in my build thread took that off last winter, the handle was 7-8. lol
I ended up using the Aerospace low profile prostreert kit on the rear of my car. I cant tell any difference from when the stock brakes were back there. I saved approximately 12.8lbs per side and that was not factoring in removing the ebrake stuff because I had already done so and threw them away.
