Here's a Diagram For Battery Relocation
 

Here's a diagram for relocating your battery.
I've seen alot of different ways people are doing this. Some good, some bad and some wrong.
IMHO, I think this is the correct way of doing this.

You will need some #1/0 awg for the battery cables. I like weilding cable,
it's very flexible.
Some #4 awg for everything else. Automotive Wire would be nice.
Cut-Off Switch of your choice.
I like to put a 150-200 amp fuse on the ground side. This fuses the whole
wiring system.
This way, when you push your cut-off switch, it kills the whole system.
I hope this helps.

Is there any legal place for mounting the cutoff switch other than coming out of the rear bumper/berger/taillight area? I hate the way it looks otherwise I'd have done this sooner.

Somewhere in the rule book it says you have to have the switch on the back of the car. Also the push pull style has to be push off.

I seen one that was pretty cool in an older Camaro.
He had a rod that connected to the switch in the trunk that was removable (rod only) when not at the track. The rod went through an existing bolt hole.
I'm pretty sure if you looked hard enough you could come up with somewhere.....like maybe behind the rear tag (remove at the track) or through the rear tag ??? just thinking out loud.

I setup mine similar to that. but I ran 0/1 to my starter from my dist block, and I ran a 0/1 from my starter to my battery ground. also I think I ran 2ga for the normal stuff.

and of course a 0/1 engine to chassis ground.

Yeah, somewhere on the back of the car.

I first ran a 1/0 to the starter also, but when back and ran the factory wire to it. My dist. box is only 2' from the starter.
I also grounded the motor to frame with a 1/0.
#2 wire is cool, just an upgrade from #4. Either will do the trick!

Yea that could work.. thanks for the idea

I have the push off style and remove the rod for day to day driving. I have an extra tail light that I went through the reverse light on with the rod. Pretty good way to do it if you have a spare light.

The only ways that I have seen it done that I would do are the regular switch style that people mounted on their tag.

I have thought about it many times and that is about the only way I can think of doing it that I would be happy with. I don't like the looks of the big ass rod sticking through the panel or the tail light.

Attachment 678219
This is how I did mine. I didn't want the rod hanging out the back either

I used the same basic diagram, here's one thats a little more "proper" that I used.

A friend of mine was trying describe to me over the phone, how the alternator field wire could be routed to the disconnect switch and still kill the car as well.

He's a pretty smart guy when it comes to electrical wiring so I have no reaso to doubt him.
Just figured that would be a way of saving Money/weight by running a 16gauge wire instead 4ga cable the whole length of the car to accomplish the same thing In the end.

The cutoff switch should not just ahut the motor off, but kill all power. In the event of an emergency you wouldnt want to have a crash but the fuel pump or oter electrical systems being powered if there was a fuel spill.
And the point of the alt cable going back that far is to insure that the battery actually gets charged(from what ive read)

Some may consider it overkill but I have been told that I should run 1/0 ground from the battery all the way to the engine block, anchoring it to the chassis a couple times along the way.

That's the same, except that your coming off the starter to feed the
J-box. I like only one wire on my starter. Very little room around the starter.
The 1/0 wire is alittle overkill on the starter. But if you like the more "proper"
way. That's cool.

16 ga wire is not big enought to charge the battery. It will burn up in a matter of very little time. It cannot carry the amperage of the alternator.

That's cool, also. Little overkill, but the frame and motor would be grounded
very nicely.

I was refering to the drawing, not the actual way you did it, I ran it the same way you did with the j-block and one wire to the starter.

I just used 1/0 from battery to chassis and block to chassis. I don't see what you were told as entirely necessary. I'm no expert here though.

I think he was talking about the exciter wire, not the actual charging cable.