Camber Adjustment
Camber Adjustment I have a tubular kmember with lower a arm slots, lower adjustable a arms and upper adjustable a arms. I have alittle positive camber and trying to get 0 degrees. I shortened the uppers all the way to pull the top of the tire in and pulled out on the bottom of the tire trying to get 0 and cannot. Ride height is where i want (3.5-4) from the top of the tire to the fender. Any ideas on how to get the camber alittle more negitive?
If you're out of adjustment on the upper move to adjusting the rod-ends on the lower. What's your caster? Could end up lengthening one of the rod-ends to get your caster squared away.
Last edited by TurboStangJON; Jul 18, 2013 at 01:25 PM.
On a 2 wheel alignment you go caster, camber, and lastly toe. I do both at the same time because it saves some time and I know what needs to move in order to achieve a desired spec. I don't think you're going about it wrong but I think it will take more work. If you get the caster squared away first you can adjust the arms evenly in order to achieve the desired camber. If you get the camber squared away first you'll need to lengthen one rod end and shorten the other in order to get the correct caster measurement. I do both because lets say your camber is -.1 and you only need a slight amount of additional caster. Simply move the lower rear control arm mounting point out and you not only increase your camber you also increase the caster. What are you using to measure the alignment? I'd take a caster measurement now before you try to make the camber 0. You may find out the car has hardly any caster then you'll be doing this all over again.
Can you give me the run down on what affects what? Im kinda new to aligning a front end. For camber I used a level and calipers on the top and bottom of the wheel. Might not be the best idea
If you're pressed on doing the alignment yourself I'd recommend buying a book that explains the aspects of a front end alignment. I was in class for it for several months and to sit here and explain it in a paragraph would be hard. You also need to invest in better tools that can correctly measure what's going on with the front end. Right now you probably have the caster and stability of a Model A Ford. My last and highest recommendation would be to attempt it yourself then follow it up with an alignment by a professional. This way you get some experience but don't end up eating tires or possibly hurting yourself.
My main goal was to get it ready to have aligned by a shop. But I want to at least have the a arms the correct length. If they have to pull the a arms off the kmember or upper shock mount I can see one hell of a bill. So long as the length is right, id be happy, so I can expect the typical $50-60 bill, not some ridiculous amount.
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Well I can say that I haven't pulled the upper in on one of these cars before to bring it into spec. As a matter of fact I have never touched the uppers and typically just mess with the lowers and the slots. I'd try to get it in the middle of the slots and the camber at 0. This way if they need to add caster they can go back on one and forward on the other.
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Brett Foote oh ok, so take them back off and set them to the stock length (Uppers) and just mess with the lowers? On the lowers you have the angled bar towards the back and the straight one up front. Which affects does adjust one or the other have?
