Build advice
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: kirksville, Missouri
Build advice Ok. I have been reading many different threads, and I figured I would come out and straight ask for opinions and advice. I have a 98 BPM Trans am, a4 with 2.73's. I am looking to build the car into a drag car that is still able to bee daily driven. I have some mods, they are as follows:
SLP lid, K&N filter, free ram air mod, throttle body bypass, EGR and AIR delete, descreened and ported MAF housing, Pacesetter longtubes, Paceseter ORY, magnaflow catback, A founders performance Panhard Bar, and a mail order tune by Frost. We have a tack near here that is an 1/8th and my best timeslip is as follows:
Reaction: .9674
60ft: 2.2236
330fft: 6.0416
1/8th ET:9.136
1/8 MPH: 79.91
I know its kinda bad, But i had a bad o2 i didnt know of at the time, and those were on all season tires spinning halfway down the track.
I have a budget of between 1500-2000. I am thinking of some founders performance LCAs, a racing differential cover (people claim they help keep the rear alive, and I dont have the cash for a 12 bolt), A set of Toyo Proxes TQ 255/50/r16 tires, and some bolt on SFC's. What else could i do to help my times within my budget, while still keeping the car streetable? keep in mind also that a lot of the work has to be done at a mechanic, due to my limited amount of tools, so this factors into my budget. Thank you guys ffor any advice and input.
SLP lid, K&N filter, free ram air mod, throttle body bypass, EGR and AIR delete, descreened and ported MAF housing, Pacesetter longtubes, Paceseter ORY, magnaflow catback, A founders performance Panhard Bar, and a mail order tune by Frost. We have a tack near here that is an 1/8th and my best timeslip is as follows:
Reaction: .9674
60ft: 2.2236
330fft: 6.0416
1/8th ET:9.136
1/8 MPH: 79.91
I know its kinda bad, But i had a bad o2 i didnt know of at the time, and those were on all season tires spinning halfway down the track.
I have a budget of between 1500-2000. I am thinking of some founders performance LCAs, a racing differential cover (people claim they help keep the rear alive, and I dont have the cash for a 12 bolt), A set of Toyo Proxes TQ 255/50/r16 tires, and some bolt on SFC's. What else could i do to help my times within my budget, while still keeping the car streetable? keep in mind also that a lot of the work has to be done at a mechanic, due to my limited amount of tools, so this factors into my budget. Thank you guys ffor any advice and input.
get the car squared away with the O2's etc, the tires and SFC's are a must if ur going to continue racing, and adding mods. With that budgetand labor $, a decent stall converter(3600)and gears (3.73/3.90)and you will see a promising gain, any dow left over get a LS6 intake.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
From: kirksville, Missouri
Figured I would give an update. Went to the track tonight, since my last track time i added:
Bolt on subframe connectors, LCA's, toyo proxes TQ drag radials, changed my gears from 2.73 to 3.73.
My old best run was around a 9.1 in the eighth mile...heres my best timeslip from tonight with the new mods:
Reaction: .6461
60 ft:2.0181
330 ft:5.7048
1/8 ET:8.6793
1/8 mph: 83.3
I am kinda disappointed...i figured I would be faster. should i be faster, or am i where i need to be with my mods?
Bolt on subframe connectors, LCA's, toyo proxes TQ drag radials, changed my gears from 2.73 to 3.73.
My old best run was around a 9.1 in the eighth mile...heres my best timeslip from tonight with the new mods:
Reaction: .6461
60 ft:2.0181
330 ft:5.7048
1/8 ET:8.6793
1/8 mph: 83.3
I am kinda disappointed...i figured I would be faster. should i be faster, or am i where i need to be with my mods?
You're a little off what I ran. With bolt ons this is what I ran...
60ft: 1.964
1/8th ET: 8.29
1/8th MPH: 87.07
Your 60ft isn't much worse than mine. What was your DA? I'd also look into getting an actual tune. When's the last time you did a tune up?
60ft: 1.964
1/8th ET: 8.29
1/8th MPH: 87.07
Your 60ft isn't much worse than mine. What was your DA? I'd also look into getting an actual tune. When's the last time you did a tune up?
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You really need a stall in your car. I would not be surprised to see a Yank SS4000 stall drop you to ALMOST 7's in the 1/8th. Especially now that you have the gears. Also, IMO I would have not done the SFC's and I would have spent the money elsewhere. You don't exactly have a beast of a tire that would allow much of any chassis flexing/twisting, so you basically just added weight to your car.
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 8
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From: kirksville, Missouri
I decided to do gears before a stall simply because of cost...My next mods will be a beefed up tranny and a yank 3600 or 4000 stall. I havent changed plugs and wires yet, i should probably start there. The SFC's i have been told should always be the first suspension mod i ever do, and since I had the LCA's out anyway, i figured what the heck, why not. Would my car benefit THAT much from a real dyno tune? I thought a frost mail order was all i needed until i changed internals? Also, What is DA, and how do i figure it out?
There is nothing wrong with the direction you are going. Building the foundation first is always a good thing. Most people, myself included do it in reverse.
You definitely need a good converter. If your funds allow try to do a cam/converter at the same time so they are matched.
I picked up 20hp on the dyno vs a mail order tune. The mail order tune was good, but somewhat conservative. From the mail order tune's perspective, until you can see how the car reacts with timing, fuel, etc it really does have to be conservative so you don't destroy an engine.
DA is density altitude used to baseline performance. It is a calculation of actual altitude, air temperature, barometric pressure, relative humidity, maybe something else. So with two identical cars, one guy runs at a track making a pass at -800', your at a different track that is 2500'. Your car will be slower. And you can calculate how much slower if you know the DA. Your engine is a simple air pump, the more air you can get into it the more power it makes. The lower the DA, the more dense the air, the faster you go.
At my home track the physical altitude is 1200', but the DA is usually 2500' or worse.
You definitely need a good converter. If your funds allow try to do a cam/converter at the same time so they are matched.
I picked up 20hp on the dyno vs a mail order tune. The mail order tune was good, but somewhat conservative. From the mail order tune's perspective, until you can see how the car reacts with timing, fuel, etc it really does have to be conservative so you don't destroy an engine.
DA is density altitude used to baseline performance. It is a calculation of actual altitude, air temperature, barometric pressure, relative humidity, maybe something else. So with two identical cars, one guy runs at a track making a pass at -800', your at a different track that is 2500'. Your car will be slower. And you can calculate how much slower if you know the DA. Your engine is a simple air pump, the more air you can get into it the more power it makes. The lower the DA, the more dense the air, the faster you go.
At my home track the physical altitude is 1200', but the DA is usually 2500' or worse.
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You have to know the actual temp, humidity, barometric pressure, and altitude of the track to calculate DA.
Here is a link that goes back a few days http://weather.noaa.gov/weather/NC_cc_us.html
Al
Here is a link that goes back a few days http://weather.noaa.gov/weather/NC_cc_us.html
Al
