Help me go quicker
Help me go quicker I have been sorting my build out since spring and have gotten to the point I need to fine tune what i am working with. I'd like to see a tenth off my 60 foot time and a little more top end pull. I don't think it will be hard. I know I need more converter and plan to get one from Lenny at Ultimate Converters over the winter. Lets hear some ideas..
383 LT1 11.85:1 forged Compstar rotater, JE flat tops
Lloyd Elliott Trickflows
215cc, 2.08I, 1.6E
LE ported stock intake
58mm TB
42lb Bosch 3's
Mike Jones solid roller
259/260 @ .050 .68x, .67x gross lift
110 LSA, 106 ICL
Lash .019E / .018I 1.6 rocker
Home built 4L60e w/ kit from kit from Dana at Pro Built
Yank SS4000
Strange S60 4.3 gear
MT 28" radial
Viking front shocks set at 70% compression, 0% rebound
Comp Eng 3 ways out back at 50/50
Spohn T/a with -2 PA
Umi LCAs, PHB
MWC Anti roll - no front sway
LCA relo brackets in the bottom hole
1 3/4 LT headers - 3" ORY
Flowmaster Y merge into 4" cutout
Weight w/ me is around 3400#
Its running a mail order tune that has been tweaked by me. AFR is 12.5 - 12.8. Timing is at 35 after the PCM has added timing. Shifting at 7000 - 7100 and same RPM through the traps. Car has gone a best of 10.87@123.66 in 1600 DA 1.49 60 ft w/ 3" cutout. After the Flowmaster Y and 4" cutout it went 10.88@124.5 in 2000 DA 1.52 60 ft.
383 LT1 11.85:1 forged Compstar rotater, JE flat tops
Lloyd Elliott Trickflows
215cc, 2.08I, 1.6E
LE ported stock intake
58mm TB
42lb Bosch 3's
Mike Jones solid roller
259/260 @ .050 .68x, .67x gross lift
110 LSA, 106 ICL
Lash .019E / .018I 1.6 rocker
Home built 4L60e w/ kit from kit from Dana at Pro Built
Yank SS4000
Strange S60 4.3 gear
MT 28" radial
Viking front shocks set at 70% compression, 0% rebound
Comp Eng 3 ways out back at 50/50
Spohn T/a with -2 PA
Umi LCAs, PHB
MWC Anti roll - no front sway
LCA relo brackets in the bottom hole
1 3/4 LT headers - 3" ORY
Flowmaster Y merge into 4" cutout
Weight w/ me is around 3400#
Its running a mail order tune that has been tweaked by me. AFR is 12.5 - 12.8. Timing is at 35 after the PCM has added timing. Shifting at 7000 - 7100 and same RPM through the traps. Car has gone a best of 10.87@123.66 in 1600 DA 1.49 60 ft w/ 3" cutout. After the Flowmaster Y and 4" cutout it went 10.88@124.5 in 2000 DA 1.52 60 ft.
I launch from 1500 RPM. The tables for timing in the tune are not really smooth, but when read in Datamaster it goes from 32* at launch to 35* at 4000. I modified the tables to get a smooth 35* after 4k throughout WOT. I haven't tweaked anything lower because I don't have a whole lot of data to work with at lower WOT RPM. Idle is at 75 KPA.
AFR seems right where it likes it. I have tried leaning it out towards 13:1 and it loses ET and MPH. I haven't gone richer than 12.5:1 though. I think the 60 has a lot to do with the converter being tight for this motor. This motors powerband would fit a 4800 - 5000 converter well. I push through the brakes at 1800 or so and trip the beam, so I keep the launch at 1500.
Sorry didn't notice the AFR in the original post. Wow, a 4000 converter and you can't foot brake to at least 2000. That would explain the low 60 ft times. Time to send it back for a reconfig.
I agree^^^^^
The slow start for the motor to even get close to the power band is the reason your 60 times are so screwed up.
I video drag racing at the track near me on Sundays, and some of those guys leave at an idle, but the car just up and SCREAMS off the line cause the stall jumps so high then flings the car out.
Just curious, but with a 4000 stall converter, have you tried just stomping it from idle when the lights go green?
The sudden jump in RPM's should get you a hell of a lot closer to the 4000 than bulldozing the tires at 1500+....
Go out in the morning and give that a try. Just sit perfectly calm with the vehicle in 1st, watch the tach (and any local kids) and jump on it hard and watch the needle to see where it kinda hangs for a second and you get that OH DAMMIT!! feeling when it starts pulling hard. If it isn't above 25-2800, you need a totally different converter.
The slow start for the motor to even get close to the power band is the reason your 60 times are so screwed up.
I video drag racing at the track near me on Sundays, and some of those guys leave at an idle, but the car just up and SCREAMS off the line cause the stall jumps so high then flings the car out.
Just curious, but with a 4000 stall converter, have you tried just stomping it from idle when the lights go green?
The sudden jump in RPM's should get you a hell of a lot closer to the 4000 than bulldozing the tires at 1500+....
Go out in the morning and give that a try. Just sit perfectly calm with the vehicle in 1st, watch the tach (and any local kids) and jump on it hard and watch the needle to see where it kinda hangs for a second and you get that OH DAMMIT!! feeling when it starts pulling hard. If it isn't above 25-2800, you need a totally different converter.
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Verdad Gallardo Yea this stall worked very well with my bolt on car and 3.42 gears.. Not so much now. The car pops the tires up an inch off the ground on launch and sets them back down. I think a new converter will really make the combo work a lot better. I will try launching from idle to see if that helps.
A set of nice stepped headers are on the list to. I have been thinking of sending my injectors off to get them resized smaller. Something in the 34# range instead of 42. May help a bit in the 60 ft.
A set of nice stepped headers are on the list to. I have been thinking of sending my injectors off to get them resized smaller. Something in the 34# range instead of 42. May help a bit in the 60 ft.
I'm a firm believer in getting the smallest injector you can get away with, not sue how much it will help. You could try running it a little lean down low to help get it moving.
I have been sorting my build out since spring and have gotten to the point I need to fine tune what i am working with. I'd like to see a tenth off my 60 foot time and a little more top end pull. I don't think it will be hard. I know I need more converter and plan to get one from Lenny at Ultimate Converters over the winter. Lets hear some ideas..
383 LT1 11.85:1 forged Compstar rotater, JE flat tops
Lloyd Elliott Trickflows
215cc, 2.08I, 1.6E
LE ported stock intake
58mm TB
42lb Bosch 3's
Mike Jones solid roller
259/260 @ .050 .68x, .67x gross lift
110 LSA, 106 ICL
Lash .019E / .018I 1.6 rocker
Home built 4L60e w/ kit from kit from Dana at Pro Built
Yank SS4000
Strange S60 4.3 gear
MT 28" radial
Viking front shocks set at 70% compression, 0% rebound
Comp Eng 3 ways out back at 50/50
Spohn T/a with -2 PA
Umi LCAs, PHB
MWC Anti roll - no front sway
LCA relo brackets in the bottom hole
1 3/4 LT headers - 3" ORY
Flowmaster Y merge into 4" cutout
Weight w/ me is around 3400#
Its running a mail order tune that has been tweaked by me. AFR is 12.5 - 12.8. Timing is at 35 after the PCM has added timing. Shifting at 7000 - 7100 and same RPM through the traps. Car has gone a best of 10.87@123.66 in 1600 DA 1.49 60 ft w/ 3" cutout. After the Flowmaster Y and 4" cutout it went 10.88@124.5 in 2000 DA 1.52 60 ft.
383 LT1 11.85:1 forged Compstar rotater, JE flat tops
Lloyd Elliott Trickflows
215cc, 2.08I, 1.6E
LE ported stock intake
58mm TB
42lb Bosch 3's
Mike Jones solid roller
259/260 @ .050 .68x, .67x gross lift
110 LSA, 106 ICL
Lash .019E / .018I 1.6 rocker
Home built 4L60e w/ kit from kit from Dana at Pro Built
Yank SS4000
Strange S60 4.3 gear
MT 28" radial
Viking front shocks set at 70% compression, 0% rebound
Comp Eng 3 ways out back at 50/50
Spohn T/a with -2 PA
Umi LCAs, PHB
MWC Anti roll - no front sway
LCA relo brackets in the bottom hole
1 3/4 LT headers - 3" ORY
Flowmaster Y merge into 4" cutout
Weight w/ me is around 3400#
Its running a mail order tune that has been tweaked by me. AFR is 12.5 - 12.8. Timing is at 35 after the PCM has added timing. Shifting at 7000 - 7100 and same RPM through the traps. Car has gone a best of 10.87@123.66 in 1600 DA 1.49 60 ft w/ 3" cutout. After the Flowmaster Y and 4" cutout it went 10.88@124.5 in 2000 DA 1.52 60 ft.
You have to buy another set anyways.
Leave the injectors in place and play with your tune more. I have heard and read of guys having 80# injectors on their daily driver.... And the car just runs as smooth as silk..
Talk to the guy who sent you the tune and see what his opinion is. See if he can give you a direction to go in with the tune.
If your tune is calibrated for this size of injector, leave them alone. If not, then BUY another set of injectors, dont downsize the ones you have. What happens if you go to a slightly larger cam or get different headers or change gears and you then suddenly need more fuel....???
You have to buy another set anyways.
Leave the injectors in place and play with your tune more. I have heard and read of guys having 80# injectors on their daily driver.... And the car just runs as smooth as silk..
Talk to the guy who sent you the tune and see what his opinion is. See if he can give you a direction to go in with the tune.
You have to buy another set anyways.
Leave the injectors in place and play with your tune more. I have heard and read of guys having 80# injectors on their daily driver.... And the car just runs as smooth as silk..
Talk to the guy who sent you the tune and see what his opinion is. See if he can give you a direction to go in with the tune.
Just looking for those small things that can help me optimize the combo without spending a bunch. I have read of guys on here going to smaller injectors and knocking time off their 60's is all. The 42's work just fine.
The throttle body is a twin 58mm with a claimed 1100 cfm flow. The intake is a SLP lid, and is sealed to a chrs1313 ram air.
I just need some dyno time to figure out if the stock PCM will be a problem past 7200, and when power starts to drop.. I can't modify fuel/spark past 7K, but may not need to. I know there was some guys pushing the stock PCM upwards of 8K, just not sure how successful it was. The cam being a solid roller will carry power for 5 - 600 rpm past peak, so 7500 shouldnt be a problem. I would say that unless this is a meticulously balanced motor, not to go past the 7200 or so...
Other will so go or blow.. I say why waste the money. If you can get a bit of help with the tune and actually go backwards on the gears, say down to 4.11 or maybe even 3.73's and get the torque to increase through tuning, you 60 will improve and give it more of a run for top end of the motor.
Other will so go or blow.. I say why waste the money. If you can get a bit of help with the tune and actually go backwards on the gears, say down to 4.11 or maybe even 3.73's and get the torque to increase through tuning, you 60 will improve and give it more of a run for top end of the motor.