Radiator Airdamn
If you have an iron block I would keep it. Mine picked up too much coolant temp on a warm day. Alum blocks don't much mind a few degrees coolant temp rise. Methanhol cars won't increase coolant temp like a gasoline car. If you remove it you can help it by running the fans. You don't want the fans running during a pass with the air dam and duct. The fans can not move as much air as ram air much above 40 MPH. That is why GM shuts the fans off there, as they would tend to block air flow. GM shuts them off, and they just "windmill". FAST XFI ECUs automatically shut the fans off at WOT for this reason. Hard to get this through to a 20something that thinks he needs to run his fans off a toggle switch. Smh :-)
Many guys running these with carbs run the fans off a toggle switch, through a normally closed relay, with a switch under the gas pedal to shut the fans off @ WOT.
If your car is low, like mine, in the front be carefull to not be on the brakes at the stripe if you bracket race. The air dam will trip the lights and show you running quicker and faster than actual. Be sure to wop the gas at the stripe to get the nose back up.
Hope this helps.
Many guys running these with carbs run the fans off a toggle switch, through a normally closed relay, with a switch under the gas pedal to shut the fans off @ WOT.
If your car is low, like mine, in the front be carefull to not be on the brakes at the stripe if you bracket race. The air dam will trip the lights and show you running quicker and faster than actual. Be sure to wop the gas at the stripe to get the nose back up.
Hope this helps.
You have a digital temp gauge? Or a data logger? Yours would be the first one I know of that doesn't gain temp on a pass. With the air dam mine still picks up 15 to 20 on a pass.
If your car is low, like mine, in the front be carefull to not be on the brakes at the stripe if you bracket race. The air dam will trip the lights and show you running quicker and faster than actual. Be sure to wop the gas at the stripe to get the nose back up. Hope this helps.
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If your car is low, like mine, in the front be carefull to not be on the brakes at the stripe if you bracket race. The air dam will trip the lights and show you running quicker and faster than actual. Be sure to wop the gas at the stripe to get the nose back up.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
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Zracer323, the factory computer shuts the fans off about 40MPH anyway. Not really an issue with no air dam anyway, as there isn't enough air flow without it anyway. And, coolant temps have much less effect on aluminium engines anyway. Dyno testing I have done shows NA LS engines power starting to fall off below 180 deg, and holding steady until 210 or so. Much better for bracket racing than iron block engines.
Guys still put 160 'stats in them. No reason to go colder than 180.
My LT1 runs quickest leaving the starting line about 90 degrees. Hard to pull off in warm weather. LOL
Guys still put 160 'stats in them. No reason to go colder than 180.
My LT1 runs quickest leaving the starting line about 90 degrees. Hard to pull off in warm weather. LOL
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