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Old Jan 25, 2015 | 07:41 PM
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Default Lexan windshield on a Street Car

I've done most of the obvious weight savings and was thinking of doing a Lexan windshield and hatch. I drive my car on the street as much as it sees the track. I never drive it in the rain but I'm keeping the wipers just in case I get caught in the rain. I'd like to know if anyone has had good or bad experience.

Also has anyone weighed factory glass VS. Lexan to know what the actual weight savings is? I've searched and read how much Lexan should weigh and about how much it should save but no one has given an exact amount.
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Old Jan 26, 2015 | 12:15 AM
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In for info too. I want to do lexan front and rear on my car for weight also, but I don't street drive mine however.
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Old Jan 26, 2015 | 04:20 AM
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Originally Posted by transampetews6
I've done most of the obvious weight savings and was thinking of doing a Lexan windshield and hatch. I drive my car on the street as much as it sees the track. I never drive it in the rain but I'm keeping the wipers just in case I get caught in the rain. I'd like to know if anyone has had good or bad experience.

Also has anyone weighed factory glass VS. Lexan to know what the actual weight savings is? I've searched and read how much Lexan should weigh and about how much it should save but no one has given an exact amount.
If you decide to use the lexan windshield you will want to loose the wipers and just use rainx on it. The wipers will eventually scratch the lexan. You will loose more weight from getting rid of all the wiper stuff. If you get a glass hatch with lexan. There is a lot of weight savings there. Wish I could remember the weights but sorry I can't.
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Old Jan 26, 2015 | 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by TTur1996
If you decide to use the lexan windshield you will want to loose the wipers and just use rainx on it. The wipers will eventually scratch the lexan. You will loose more weight from getting rid of all the wiper stuff. If you get a glass hatch with lexan. There is a lot of weight savings there. Wish I could remember the weights but sorry I can't.
As I said, I don't really drive it in the rain. The wipers would only be there for a backup just in case. I'll pull the wipers and use rainx and see how it gos.
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Old Jan 26, 2015 | 11:30 AM
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My buddy has both front and back optic armor lexan windows. From what I've seen the windshield wipers don't scratch this material. But the Windows do flex a little bit when driving down the freeway. Back flexs when Windows are down and front flexs when the Windows are up. Think back was like 22-30 pounds saving and the front was like 21
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Old Jan 26, 2015 | 12:20 PM
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The Optic Armor windows are about 50 pound saving for front and rear. They had a display at the PRI show and had a wiper motor setup with steel wool under the blade. The Optic Armor side showed almost no abrading and the uncoated lexan side was almost opaque. It works and fits these cars very well.

Give us a call... we have a great deal on the windows and have them in stock!
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Old Jan 26, 2015 | 12:51 PM
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theres a reason why windsheilds have a purpose (besides sheilding wind obviously), I don't know if saving 20 lbs on a street car would be worth it, track car different story.
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Old Jan 26, 2015 | 07:07 PM
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Hmmm. I don't want the glass to flex or pop out. however I'm sold on the optical armor. Do I need a support down the center? I've seen that done on some cars.
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Old Jan 26, 2015 | 10:24 PM
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What about side windows?

Also what are the safety issues with the lexan vs standard? Especially concerning the windshield.
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Old Jan 26, 2015 | 10:34 PM
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Just took a peek at the optic armor site. Looks like a nice drop in replacement. However I certainly hope real world prices are available through the vendors such as MWC. The prices on the site are a little scary for the average hot rodder.
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Old Jan 27, 2015 | 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by transampetews6
Hmmm. I don't want the glass to flex or pop out. however I'm sold on the optical armor. Do I need a support down the center? I've seen that done on some cars.
Generally speaking you really only need the center support on the 1/8 thick or high mph cars.
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Old Jan 27, 2015 | 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by stngh8r
Just took a peek at the optic armor site. Looks like a nice drop in replacement. However I certainly hope real world prices are available through the vendors such as MWC. The prices on the site are a little scary for the average hot rodder.

We as vendors do have better pricing than what is advertised on the website.
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Old Jan 27, 2015 | 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by stngh8r
What about side windows?

Also what are the safety issues with the lexan vs standard? Especially concerning the windshield.

Right off Optic Armors website they are 50/75% lighter than factory glass 250% stronger and shatter resistant.
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Old Jan 27, 2015 | 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by MidwestChassis
Generally speaking you really only need the center support on the 1/8 thick or high mph cars.
So by going to a 3/16 you do not need a center support?
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Old Jan 27, 2015 | 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Mystery Bird
So by going to a 3/16 you do not need a center support?

I am not going to say you don't need to but it really depends on how fast your car is.
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Old Jan 27, 2015 | 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by MidwestChassis
I am not going to say you don't need to but it really depends on how fast your car is.
What about for my slow pig, 10.87 @ 123 on a good day? I need a new windshield anyway and if I can save 20lbs, plus these things are made for street/strip? I see they make a 1/4 version too. I'm thinkin yeah maybe.

What about installation on the drop in units? Easy enough for the above average DIYer?
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Old Jan 27, 2015 | 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Mystery Bird
What about for my slow pig, 10.87 @ 123 on a good day? I need a new windshield anyway and if I can save 20lbs, plus these things are made for street/strip? I see they make a 1/4 version too. I'm thinkin yeah maybe.

What about installation on the drop in units? Easy enough for the above average DIYer?

I would not worry about the center brace on your car when you start seeing speeds around 150 in the 1/8 you might want to consider it, installation is very easy you can put them in the say way you would your factory glass.
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Old Jan 27, 2015 | 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by MidwestChassis
I would not worry about the center brace on your car when you start seeing speeds around 150 in the 1/8 you might want to consider it, installation is very easy you can put them in the say way you would your factory glass.
my fastest pass has been 9.6 @ 142 mph. I know she's gonna go a bit faster. maybe 9.20s, so with that said do you feel that I'm push the limit with out a brace. keep in mind this is still a street car.

what about the rear glass popping out on the highway with windows open and t-tops out, say doing 80-90 mph. (I'm not saying I drive that fast on the hwy LOL)

How do you make up the difference in thickness from factory glass? I would consider doing 1/4" front, black out, drop-in and 3/16" rear blacked out, tinted, drop-in.

can you PM me a price on both shipped to 08734
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Old Jan 27, 2015 | 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by transampetews6
my fastest pass has been 9.6 @ 142 mph. I know she's gonna go a bit faster. maybe 9.20s, so with that said do you feel that I'm push the limit with out a brace. keep in mind this is still a street car.

what about the rear glass popping out on the highway with windows open and t-tops out, say doing 80-90 mph. (I'm not saying I drive that fast on the hwy LOL)

How do you make up the difference in thickness from factory glass? I would consider doing 1/4" front, black out, drop-in and 3/16" rear blacked out, tinted, drop-in.

can you PM me a price on both shipped to 08734
Just a little bit of information Mike Brown has been over 200mph in the 1/4 mile with 3/16 window glued in.
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Old Jan 27, 2015 | 07:14 PM
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Originally Posted by MidwestChassis
Just a little bit of information Mike Brown has been over 200mph in the 1/4 mile with 3/16 window glued in.
That's good to know! Seems like there are many pros to this. Now to just come up with some coin for them. lol
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