Tick Battery Relocation Kit
Tick Battery Relocation Kit Hey guys, I hope I am posting this in the right spot. But Im about to do the battery relocation to the trunk area and I was wondering if the tick performance battery relocation kit is worth the $$ to have laid out instructions on exactly how to do it. My only complaint is where they put the shut off switch. I want it on my license plate and not the berger panel. Is it possible to move it to license plate with the cables supplied in the kit?
Why do you want to move the battery? The tick kit isn't complete anyway. You sill need a battery box and some way of mounting it to the frame rail like the BMR mount. Also I wouldn't use 2 and 4 gauge wire. I would use at least 1 and 2 gauge wire. In order to do this right you're looking at spending around $600. I'm sure you can spend that money on other things to make your car to go faster. Just my opinion
I moved mine and used a battery tray from BMR. Total cost was around 200$ or so. I used 2 gauge wire from battery to a post on the frame rail close to the starter. Tied infactory wiring from starter there and just ran a new power wire for fuse box and alternator. Also used 2 gauge for a ground from battery to block. No problems yet..
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
Likes: 89
From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
I bought a lightweight battery and left it in the front. It's from XS Power and ran about 150. Battery relocation adds weight to your car, the opposite of going fast.
like I said to do a battery relocation properly you need to spend about $600.
1 gauge from switch to starter
2 gauge from starter to fuse panel
2 gauge from alternator to switch
2 gauge engine ground
1 gauge battery to switch
1 gauge battery ground
battery tray and hold-down
battery box or bulkhead
switch (I'd use a push pull)
miscellaneous connectors etc.
go ahead and add up the parts
It doesn't save any weight at all and I doubt it makes any difference with traction. Unless you have removed about 50 to 100 lbs. from behind the rear axle.
Spend your money somewhere else or on a light-weight battery.
The only problem I see with a light weight battery is a big accessory loads (big stereo or aux lighting) or lots of short drives with long parking times.
1 gauge from switch to starter
2 gauge from starter to fuse panel
2 gauge from alternator to switch
2 gauge engine ground
1 gauge battery to switch
1 gauge battery ground
battery tray and hold-down
battery box or bulkhead
switch (I'd use a push pull)
miscellaneous connectors etc.
go ahead and add up the parts
It doesn't save any weight at all and I doubt it makes any difference with traction. Unless you have removed about 50 to 100 lbs. from behind the rear axle.
Spend your money somewhere else or on a light-weight battery.
The only problem I see with a light weight battery is a big accessory loads (big stereo or aux lighting) or lots of short drives with long parking times.
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Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
I've done two things to make me and my lightweight battery get along. For the extended sitting times it stays on a float charger, first plug in now I'm on solar. And two, I disabled the auto headlights. That way when I'm tuning and I must keep the key on to flash the PCM I'm not uselessly draining the battery. Other then that it's been all good. Thing pops off hard when you hit the key!
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Verdad Gallardo I've done two things to make me and my lightweight battery get along. For the extended sitting times it stays on a float charger, first plug in now I'm on solar. And two, I disabled the auto headlights. That way when I'm tuning and I must keep the key on to flash the PCM I'm not uselessly draining the battery. Other then that it's been all good. Thing pops off hard when you hit the key!
It does not take $600 to put a battery in the back of the car. You can definitely spend that much if you want, but you can also do it for way cheaper. Ask me how I know. And taking 50 lbs off of the front and putting it in the back helps weight distribution which improves handling and launching. And throwing 50lbs above the right rear wheel (the one that power naturally want to flow to) has to help somewhat. ****, my wifes Caddy wagon has a battery in the back. Lots of new cars do. Cuz it makes sense.
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
Likes: 89
From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
11 Second Club
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 804
Likes: 0
From: Tampa, FL
like I said to do a battery relocation properly you need to spend about $600.
1 gauge from switch to starter - Don't need
2 gauge from starter to fuse panel - Don't need
2 gauge from alternator to switch - Included in kit
2 gauge engine ground - don't need
1 gauge battery to switch
1 gauge battery ground - Included in kit
battery tray and hold-down - Included in kit
battery box or bulkhead - Not needed. Battery box is metal.
switch (I'd use a push pull) - Flaming river is $69. Moroso sells some cheaper
miscellaneous connectors etc.
go ahead and add up the parts
It doesn't save any weight at all and I doubt it makes any difference with traction. Unless you have removed about 50 to 100 lbs. from behind the rear axle.
Spend your money somewhere else or on a light-weight battery.
The only problem I see with a light weight battery is a big accessory loads (big stereo or aux lighting) or lots of short drives with long parking times.
1 gauge from switch to starter - Don't need
2 gauge from starter to fuse panel - Don't need
2 gauge from alternator to switch - Included in kit
2 gauge engine ground - don't need
1 gauge battery to switch
1 gauge battery ground - Included in kit
battery tray and hold-down - Included in kit
battery box or bulkhead - Not needed. Battery box is metal.
switch (I'd use a push pull) - Flaming river is $69. Moroso sells some cheaper
miscellaneous connectors etc.
go ahead and add up the parts
It doesn't save any weight at all and I doubt it makes any difference with traction. Unless you have removed about 50 to 100 lbs. from behind the rear axle.
Spend your money somewhere else or on a light-weight battery.
The only problem I see with a light weight battery is a big accessory loads (big stereo or aux lighting) or lots of short drives with long parking times.
It's not all about losing weight. It's also about weight bias. Who wouldn't want to move 36lbs off the nose and put it over the right rear tire?
-Mark
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ta...FdgMgQodAiwA-w
It's not all about losing weight. It's also about weight bias. Who wouldn't want to move 36lbs off the nose and put it over the right rear tire?
-Mark
It's not all about losing weight. It's also about weight bias. Who wouldn't want to move 36lbs off the nose and put it over the right rear tire?
-Mark
. However I am thinking of a light weight battery. Spending money on other stuff right now. For me, battery relocation is low on the to do list. One more thing the Taylor kit doesn't include a cable that go's from the alternator to the switch. Which you need to connect to the battery side of the switch otherwise the car will keep running after turning off the cut-out switch.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...1233334884.jpg
https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...1233334884.jpg
11 Second Club
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 804
Likes: 0
From: Tampa, FL
Most people with f-bodys mount the battery in the spare tire well, you will need some kind of mount. That kit is for top mount post so you will need to buy new side mount connectors or a new battery. (f-bodys came with side mount battery post, mustangs came with top post) I have a 40 lb red top in the front. No problem with weight bias. Alright it might not cost $600 but I bet before you're through with the project and you count all of the little things that you can't think now, you're still into it for around $400-450. and I'm not sure 2 gauge wire is good enough. At the end of the day it still doesn't save any weight, it adds weight. However I am thinking of a light weight battery. Spending money on other stuff right now. For me, battery relocation is low on the to do list.
. However I am thinking of a light weight battery. Spending money on other stuff right now. For me, battery relocation is low on the to do list.I did the light weight (dynabatt) battery for a year or so. It did save me about 20 lbs but since it's much smaller, the reserve on it is 5 mins if you are lucky. Meaning between rounds if you turn the fan on or have an electric water pump it will drain the battery fast as hell. I had to jump mine on more than one occasion. I went back to a full size battery and moved it to the rear.
One more thing the Taylor kit doesn't include a cable that go's from the alternator to the switch. Which you need to connect to the battery side of the switch otherwise the car will keep running after turning off the cut-out switch.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...1233334884.jpg
https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...1233334884.jpg
I have mine wired like this: 1g from dist box to switch. 1g from alt to switch. Removed wire from alt to dist box. 1g battery to ground. 1g battery to switch. Didn't mess with the starter at all.
I will say that everyone should put in a 150amp fuse between the battery and the alternator. As close to the battery as possible.
I also added 90lbs of ballast in the rear one time and I ran quicker due to a better 60ft. Adding weight doesn't always mean you'll run slower.
Plus putting the battery in the rear cleans up the engine bay a little.
-Mark
I stole this idea from another guy on tech. Put a starter relay next to the cut-off switch to deenergize the 1g wire going to the starter except for starting the car. Kinda don't like the idea of a positive cable running along the length of the car unfused.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...-trunkbat3.jpg
...and the biggest problem with f-body cars is weight. mustangs have about a 500-600 lbs advantage. moving weight to behind the axle isn't a big concern for me, removing weight is and keeping the car a reasonable street machine is.
I do agree that it does clean up the engine bay..
https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...-trunkbat3.jpg
...and the biggest problem with f-body cars is weight. mustangs have about a 500-600 lbs advantage. moving weight to behind the axle isn't a big concern for me, removing weight is and keeping the car a reasonable street machine is.
I do agree that it does clean up the engine bay..