4l65 to Powerglide switch questions
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4l65 to Powerglide switch questions hey guys,
Right now I have a mostly stock 5.7 with long tube headers, ls6 intake, 150 shot, 4000 yank stall, suspension and a 26" tall slick. The car is also gutted and is running 2.73 gears.
i finally broke the yoke on the 10 bolt and have a glide (1.80) and ford 8.8 Im looking to install at the same time. The dyno numbers were 434/511. Current best ET is a 6.86 @ 98 with a 1.49 60 ft.
Mu question is will I lose or gain et & 60 ft switching from 4l65/2.73 to a PG/4.10s? The car is a 1/8 mile track only car. I would have a converter that in theory would flash to around 4500 rpms and I would be leaving off the transbrake. I would also switch to a 28" slick.
Let me know your thoughts. Thank you.
Right now I have a mostly stock 5.7 with long tube headers, ls6 intake, 150 shot, 4000 yank stall, suspension and a 26" tall slick. The car is also gutted and is running 2.73 gears.
i finally broke the yoke on the 10 bolt and have a glide (1.80) and ford 8.8 Im looking to install at the same time. The dyno numbers were 434/511. Current best ET is a 6.86 @ 98 with a 1.49 60 ft.
Mu question is will I lose or gain et & 60 ft switching from 4l65/2.73 to a PG/4.10s? The car is a 1/8 mile track only car. I would have a converter that in theory would flash to around 4500 rpms and I would be leaving off the transbrake. I would also switch to a 28" slick.
Let me know your thoughts. Thank you.
Too many things are changing at once to make a guess. The Glide will hurt, and the gears will help. Whether one will balance out the other depends on a lot of things like your race weight and where the motor is making power (to see if that stall is correct).
On the surface is it not exactly an ideal combo. The gearing says it should be boosted(the 4.10s would help a LOT in the 1/8th), the stall says it was spec'd for an NA street car, and the gutted weight and PG says drag car. Which one is it lol?
What raceweight is "gutted"? At your power level and the weak first in a PG unless you are super light you will almost surely lose ET in the 1/8th and most likely 1/4 as well. You will gain consistency and one less shift will help, but whether or not it will offset your worse 60' can't be said.
I would decide what you really want and sort out the combo before looking at different transmissions.
A lot of opinions about Glides, but most will agree that you need a lot more power, a lot more gear then your 2.73s (4.10s are a step in the right directiong), and a sub 3200# weight you start looking at a Glide.
My build was recommended a Glide from Craig at FTI, but it will also see more track then street and is under 3200#s, ~650hp, 4.30s gears, and has a ~5400rpm 8" stall. With 2.73s, ~500 or less hp, and a 4k stall it will be a dog in the 1/8th. 4.10s in the same combo will be better, but nobody can say how much.
On the surface is it not exactly an ideal combo. The gearing says it should be boosted(the 4.10s would help a LOT in the 1/8th), the stall says it was spec'd for an NA street car, and the gutted weight and PG says drag car. Which one is it lol?
What raceweight is "gutted"? At your power level and the weak first in a PG unless you are super light you will almost surely lose ET in the 1/8th and most likely 1/4 as well. You will gain consistency and one less shift will help, but whether or not it will offset your worse 60' can't be said.
I would decide what you really want and sort out the combo before looking at different transmissions.
A lot of opinions about Glides, but most will agree that you need a lot more power, a lot more gear then your 2.73s (4.10s are a step in the right directiong), and a sub 3200# weight you start looking at a Glide.
My build was recommended a Glide from Craig at FTI, but it will also see more track then street and is under 3200#s, ~650hp, 4.30s gears, and has a ~5400rpm 8" stall. With 2.73s, ~500 or less hp, and a 4k stall it will be a dog in the 1/8th. 4.10s in the same combo will be better, but nobody can say how much.
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This is a track only car. Im thinking the weight of the car is less than 3200. I have removed all of the carpet, seats, ac compressor, sway bars, front bumper support.
What gearing and stall would you recommend? The stall is going to have to be changed anyways to work with the glide. Peak power was around 5300 and torque around 4000 IIRC.
I plan to up the 150 shot to a 200-250 shot eventually.
What gearing and stall would you recommend? The stall is going to have to be changed anyways to work with the glide. Peak power was around 5300 and torque around 4000 IIRC.
I plan to up the 150 shot to a 200-250 shot eventually.
This is a track only car. Im thinking the weight of the car is less than 3200. I have removed all of the carpet, seats, ac compressor, sway bars, front bumper support.
What gearing and stall would you recommend? The stall is going to have to be changed anyways to work with the glide. Peak power was around 5300 and torque around 4000 IIRC.
I plan to up the 150 shot to a 200-250 shot eventually.
What gearing and stall would you recommend? The stall is going to have to be changed anyways to work with the glide. Peak power was around 5300 and torque around 4000 IIRC.
I plan to up the 150 shot to a 200-250 shot eventually.
As for my opinion, for NA your car will want at least a 4500 stall, I imagine for the bigger shot of spray they may spec you something closer to 4k and strong enough to stand up to Nitrous.
I would call FTI, they build everything in house (literally, CNC machines and all) and have a TON of experience with Glides. They will want to know everything about the car but will spec you the proper stall for your combo. The 8" mechanical diode SS8 they spec'd me weighs freaking nothing and they let you restall it for free once during the first year in case you chance your combo or it wasn't dead-on perfect.
