12V compressor to open gate
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Teching In
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 26
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From: Erie, PA
12V compressor to open gate So what I have been battling the last year is traction off the line, what I would like to do it leave the line without boost at all, for say 20ft or time based somehow. The car is running a micro squirt. Could I run a small compressor to open the gate off the line and then use a MAC solenoid to basically act as a three way valve so off the line the compressor opens the gate and thru the 8x8 boost control table have it bring it boost slowly? Seems like a fairly simple way to achieve what i'm doing, or am I reinventing the wheel?
first post here I appreciate any ideas, seems TFF.com doesn't have much traffic anymore
first post here I appreciate any ideas, seems TFF.com doesn't have much traffic anymore
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Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 26
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From: Erie, PA
It has 50/50 rear 90/10 front shocks, caltracs, 275 drag radials. I'm going to have to see if the microsquirt can do anything other than a nitrous retard. But even that should help alot.
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Verdad Gallardo You'd be best off putting some real shocks on the car and leave with some power..
Lemme guess, this is on a radial as well.
If you're not going to fix the suspension, then take the radials off and put a slick on the car, they at least will recover and let you get away with a lot more (or less) effort depending on how you want to look at it. The way you have it set up a slick will probably work well.
Lemme guess, this is on a radial as well.
If you're not going to fix the suspension, then take the radials off and put a slick on the car, they at least will recover and let you get away with a lot more (or less) effort depending on how you want to look at it. The way you have it set up a slick will probably work well.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 26
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From: Erie, PA
And I really appreciate the comments here guys, call me a newb all ya want lol I'm new to really making power, the car put down 649 ftlbs at 2400 rpms so its a handful. I am putting the ls9 cam in it to hopefully kill the massive torque down low.
I wouldn't do anything to kill any power to the motor yet, You need good double adjustable shocks first, especially if you are running radial. And if you don't have to run that nitto for a class or something, don't. Give yourself a fighting chance and put the m/t radial on, they're about 10 times better than the nitto is.
You need to slow the front so that the weight transfer is kept on the rear tires, and let the extension of the rear go a lot quicker to hit the tire, and stiffen the compression in the rear to hold the hit on the tire a bunch.
Before trying to kill all kinds of power can you put an ams boost controller in the car? If so that might be a better way to go if the Efi you're using doesn't have the abilities.
I'm not too familar with the Efi you're using does it have any programmable rpm curves like the arc module for a grid? If so you could control rpm via time and just run on the limiter for the first 2 seconds then let it eat if you have to, not sure if you can do that with your system, etc.
You need to slow the front so that the weight transfer is kept on the rear tires, and let the extension of the rear go a lot quicker to hit the tire, and stiffen the compression in the rear to hold the hit on the tire a bunch.
Before trying to kill all kinds of power can you put an ams boost controller in the car? If so that might be a better way to go if the Efi you're using doesn't have the abilities.
I'm not too familar with the Efi you're using does it have any programmable rpm curves like the arc module for a grid? If so you could control rpm via time and just run on the limiter for the first 2 seconds then let it eat if you have to, not sure if you can do that with your system, etc.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 26
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From: Erie, PA
I bought the tires when it was a lot less power and they always held fine, but that was a 4.8 so not much off the line. now the 6.0 with a 76mm turbo and we are at a different level. but, I have had a lot of people say the nitto 555r are **** so ill put the mt on the list. The car is getting a cage and new fuel system now. I want to remove the sway bar and then take apart the whole front suspension and see if the control arms move freely. About ten years ago when I got the car we put energy suspension polyurethane everything in it and it rides like a brick. Watching vid of it off the line it does nothing body stays flat, no weight transfer at all.
That's a problem, the rear should actually be separating from the body, whole car should look like it's lifting up.
Suspension is probably binding, front swaybar can go, put a good anti roll bar on the back of it to keep it level, and if the front end is binding in any way, fix that. Rod ended stuff does wonders for that, I'm sure there's options for a 69 that will free it up.
You get that suspension set right the car will leave with all the power you can make, look at Ron Rhodes x275 car, granted total race 100% max effort but still that car had gone 1.0 60 foots on an m/t radial with a nitrous motor and I guarantee he's making triple the power you are that early in the run, and he's on a caltrac setup.
May be worth getting in touch with him about the setup for the car I bet he can probably get you a set of shocks for your car and put the thing in the right direction immediately.
Don't take it the wrong way people come on here all the time trying to manage power because they have a low rider or some crazy stupid suspension setup on the car that is going to stop it from working at all... with no post count and no history here no one knows who you are or what you have going on other than you're looking for a power management method for what would seem to be a level of power that you can easily put to use right out of the gate with anything that's set up right to use it.
It's like the kid that goes and put's 20's with rubber band tires on his 4th gen cause it looks cool then he wonders why his lid and cat back car just buzzes the tires at every chance. Until we know what you are working with and some idea what you've already done.... posts that are looking for out of the norm power management techniques, look like another possible case of the above.
Suspension is probably binding, front swaybar can go, put a good anti roll bar on the back of it to keep it level, and if the front end is binding in any way, fix that. Rod ended stuff does wonders for that, I'm sure there's options for a 69 that will free it up.
You get that suspension set right the car will leave with all the power you can make, look at Ron Rhodes x275 car, granted total race 100% max effort but still that car had gone 1.0 60 foots on an m/t radial with a nitrous motor and I guarantee he's making triple the power you are that early in the run, and he's on a caltrac setup.
May be worth getting in touch with him about the setup for the car I bet he can probably get you a set of shocks for your car and put the thing in the right direction immediately.
Don't take it the wrong way people come on here all the time trying to manage power because they have a low rider or some crazy stupid suspension setup on the car that is going to stop it from working at all... with no post count and no history here no one knows who you are or what you have going on other than you're looking for a power management method for what would seem to be a level of power that you can easily put to use right out of the gate with anything that's set up right to use it.
It's like the kid that goes and put's 20's with rubber band tires on his 4th gen cause it looks cool then he wonders why his lid and cat back car just buzzes the tires at every chance. Until we know what you are working with and some idea what you've already done.... posts that are looking for out of the norm power management techniques, look like another possible case of the above.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 26
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From: Erie, PA
And I get that, and this post has Def helped. I am not a racer and had no idea people used timing to control power. But I'd rather ask questions rather than waste time and money on an idea that wouldn't work. I'll look for a build thread part of this forum and start one. I'm a 8 year member on another site that seemed to drop off.
Welcome to tech, get a build thread going that would be cool. Definitely get ahold of Rhodes though as he has about the best working cal-trac first
Gen I know of and if anyone could tell you what to do with it, I'd listen to him first.
Gen I know of and if anyone could tell you what to do with it, I'd listen to him first.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2016
Posts: 26
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From: Erie, PA
Just went and jumped up and down on the front bumper, Def doesn't move freely. Is it common practice to leave the control arm bolts loose enough that the arms will fall under their own weight?
I would be using a lock but and tightening them to just the point that it's making contact, and some 273 lo tire too.
Rear leaf springs should be just tightened enough to make contact as well.
Rhodes, call him his knowledge on your setup is worth it's weight in gold
Rear leaf springs should be just tightened enough to make contact as well.
Rhodes, call him his knowledge on your setup is worth it's weight in gold
