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Old Mar 26, 2016 | 10:08 AM
  #1  
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Default help me stop spinning

My local track has little to no prep

My car so far
99 4th gen
FTI 3600 convertor
Long tubes &ORY
LS6 intake
Mickey thompson 275 50 15 on race star rims
Stock front suspension with sway bar removed
Rear koni s/a shocks near full stiff
Adjustable pan hard bar
Tubular lca
Founders bolt in lca re location brackets bottom hole

Weight 3340lbs
Front 1890lbs
Rear 1450lbs

Before I added the stall I would dead hook 1.99-2.02 60ft now all I do is smoke the tyres
I am going to the track tomorrow and wondered what I can do to help
All I really have to play with is tyre pressure lca mount points and shock extention damping

Andy
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Old Mar 26, 2016 | 06:06 PM
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to fix the issue is probably going to be the right combo of suspension adjustments , I am not a suspension expert lol

until you get some suspension experts in here and having a track trip tomorrow I will give you a quick fix I came up with on the fly the one time I took my 3600 stalled bolt on car to the track , it was also on a street night with poor prep - I stuck my jack and toolbox in the trunk probably 120 pounds or so total and dropped the dr's to 13 psi ( re check after first pass as pressure will jump up after burnout) and it re gained traction 1.7 60's on the way to 12.1 @112. 1.7's is nothing to write home about but it sure beat 1.9's and got me from mid 12's to low 12's with only a handful of passes ever in the car.
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Old Mar 26, 2016 | 11:13 PM
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Put some super glue on your tires after your burnout.. J/k
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Old Mar 26, 2016 | 11:39 PM
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Well you said STIFF rear, so you need the rear to squat. Some guys run v6 springs.
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Old Mar 26, 2016 | 11:53 PM
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My rear suspension doesn't squat anymore since the re location brackets
But that was the way I was thinking need to loosen up the rear so it can move a bit
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Old Mar 27, 2016 | 12:15 AM
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How long Is your burnout? I have the same set up as you. I have the shocks full soft with a m6 do consistent 1.5-1.6 60' so your set up can work. Give us more info
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Old Mar 27, 2016 | 12:20 AM
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Usually do quite a big burn out first pass then just a quick spin every pass after that
Currently tyres are at 18.5 psi
lca' in bottom hole
Rear shocks set half a turn back from full stiff (rebound is only adjustment)
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Old Mar 27, 2016 | 03:43 AM
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I'm going to assume they are M/T 275/50/15 drag radials. I would go up on air pressure. My car at one point was very similar to your car. My car would spin at 20 psi, and spin worse the lower I would go. Found 21-23psi was sweet spot, any air psi higher of lower, it would spin. Recommended by Mickey Thompson always do a light burnout on a radial, too big of burnout and tires get greasy and don't work.
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Old Mar 27, 2016 | 06:50 AM
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Weight transfer is key.
You could play with the rear shock settings to help and as above....13psi sounds pretty low (unless its a slick)
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Old Mar 27, 2016 | 07:46 AM
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You need 20 in those tires, and if you don't have a double adjustable shock with radials you're fighting a long battl

If your local track's prep is sketchy all the time for whatever reason a radial tire may not be the best choice
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Old Mar 27, 2016 | 08:39 AM
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I would question the track prep. Last time I was at the track I ran these toyo drag radials 275 40 17 street wheels. consistent 1.6s on street night prep with 4k stall and stock suspension. I cant imagine not being able to hook with 275 50 15. When I still had the mickey drs I had street nights where I would pull up with 32psi, no burnout and pull off 1.7s.

Might be kind of a dumb question but have you ever checked your motor and trans mounts? The only times I had issues hooking at the track was after I added a ss3600 a few years ago. I ran hoosier drs and the car wouldn't hook it was driving me nuts! Long story short, motor and trans mounts were demolished! I replaced motor, trans mounts, and for the hell of it torque arm mount. After that, the car hooked like a SOB.
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Old Mar 27, 2016 | 11:13 AM
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I would do a light burn out just enough to haze the tires with smoke.. 17-18psi when the tires are warm works the best for me on Hoosier drag radials..
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Old Mar 27, 2016 | 12:10 PM
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First thanks for all the help
I have been to the track today and had some varied runs
I have run faster than ever before with a 12.70 @ 108 with a 1.9 60ft
And on that run it seemed to dead hook I had softened up the shocks and adjusted pressure to 16 psi
The track certainly wasn't running as fast as when I was last there but I hoped to get more than a tenth off of my 60ft with the convertor maybe I should have got a 4000 stall

Andy
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Old Mar 27, 2016 | 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by pinhead
First thanks for all the help
I have been to the track today and had some varied runs
I have run faster than ever before with a 12.70 @ 108 with a 1.9 60ft
And on that run it seemed to dead hook I had softened up the shocks and adjusted pressure to 16 psi
The track certainly wasn't running as fast as when I was last there but I hoped to get more than a tenth off of my 60ft with the convertor maybe I should have got a 4000 stall

Andy
Are you stalling the converter up or flashing it? I think most people here with similar setups, me included, pull much better 60' flashing the converter.
I have zero problems pulling consistent 1.7 60' with my yank ss3600, Mt et streets on stock suspension with poor track prep
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Old Mar 27, 2016 | 12:31 PM
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Tried a few methods but holding around 1000-1200 rpm and flashing it from there seemed to work best
The 1 time I flashed from idle I got a 2.6 60ft it was like a big smokey rolling burn out ran a 13.6
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Old Mar 27, 2016 | 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by pinhead
First thanks for all the help
I have been to the track today and had some varied runs
I have run faster than ever before with a 12.70 @ 108 with a 1.9 60ft
And on that run it seemed to dead hook I had softened up the shocks and adjusted pressure to 16 psi
The track certainly wasn't running as fast as when I was last there but I hoped to get more than a tenth off of my 60ft with the convertor maybe I should have got a 4000 stall

Andy
1.9 60' with a 3600 vig. If it did dead hook then there's something wrong. I think there's something wrong anyway. Your mph is low compared to my old stats with your mods. Even my stock stall with full weight on street tires did what yours is doing and better.
My old ss3600 gave me a best of 1.5. Usual was 1.6-1.7. That was all done on thin 275 40 17 drs on zr1 wheels. You should be doing about the same with that vig.
Maybe I'm overlooking something here but I think you're barking up the wrong tree by thinking it will get better with a higher stall. You need to look at your car man. I'm telling you, take a look at your mounts like I said. The same **** happened to me. At least you can rule them out ya know? But in anycase at this point, I believe there's a issue going on with your car.
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Old Mar 28, 2016 | 05:15 AM
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I think you may be right about I am still on stock mounts and 165k miles
I wonder if my headers or y pipe are hitting causing false knock and pulling timing causing it to bog
It doesn't seem to ever bog on the street and feels like an animal but it was a bit disappointing how the launch didn't feel much better than before
I never data logged at the track but data log on the street has never shown knock
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Old Mar 28, 2016 | 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by pinhead
I think you may be right about I am still on stock mounts and 165k miles
I wonder if my headers or y pipe are hitting causing false knock and pulling timing causing it to bog
It doesn't seem to ever bog on the street and feels like an animal but it was a bit disappointing how the launch didn't feel much better than before
I never data logged at the track but data log on the street has never shown knock
IDK about knock but my post was strictly about taking a look at your mounts. I only had 96k on my car when I had to replace the mounts and this was only 4k miles after adding the ss3600 and drag radials. The fact they were old, then adding stall+drs I think is what finished them off. This is why everyone here recommends doing motor mounts when you do headers. I didn't do mounts when installing headers so I had to deal with the issue later. If your motor mounts are shot you can pretty much count on your trans mount too. At 165k I seriously would take a look.
Also FWIW, back when I had the hooking issues I asked around on here and most thought it was crazy to blame mounts but I have the answer yes it does.
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Old Mar 28, 2016 | 09:42 AM
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First thing I would do, is find me a set of single adjustable front drag shocks. Something like strange or QA1. I bet that fixes your issue outright.
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