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The tighter converter only pulls the tires about 2" on motor and sets it back down quick. The spray comes on at 3k which is about 2 tenths of a second after wot. It gets all kinds of stupid and drops the nose really fast.
What is the stall on the new converter? Are you footbraking all the time or transbrake?
You may need to lower the window switch so your not hitting the tires twice. Just went through the same thing.
Everybody has told me that I can't spray lower than 3k. I'm a turbo guy so this is my first time with nitrous. I think it is coming on before the shocks top out so it's almost in one motion.
This is stock front suspension with oem 150,000 mile shocks, intrax lowering springs, swaybar removed.
Rear is lower control arms at 1.5 degrees down compared to the chassis, bmr xtreme anti rollbar, cut stock springs, viking shocks at c=15, r=5, -2 degrees pinion angle, long BMR torque arm as low as the front will go.
275/60/15 Pro, 20 psi, leaving on 250, 3.70 rear gear.
What lead you to those shock settings? Viking and BMR told me to go the opposite way and set the rebound high and compression low. I tried the torque arm as low as I can get it, LCA in middle hole and it still won't hook. I didn't have anyone to video this time so I was trying to adjust the shocks from what I could feel. I ended up at 8 and 8 but it still wouldn't hold if I sprayed out of the hole.
Mt 28x11.5 et Street r bias on a not so sticky track. I lost in the finals Friday night to a fox body with sbf and 200 shot. He is running the old style et Street radials and hooked to a 1.39 60'. He went 6.34 to my 6.40 but I cut a 1.55 60' and couldn't catch him.
What lead you to those shock settings? Viking and BMR told me to go the opposite way and set the rebound high and compression low. I tried the torque arm as low as I can get it, LCA in middle hole and it still won't hook. I didn't have anyone to video this time so I was trying to adjust the shocks from what I could feel. I ended up at 8 and 8 but it still wouldn't hold if I sprayed out of the hole.
From what his settings are, it looks like he has a lot of squat induced into the chassis, and the high compression on the shock settings are to combat this. Alternatively, what I normally recommend is to induce a lot of anti-squat and control the separation with the rebound. This helps drive the tires into the pavement and keep them loaded
From what his settings are, it looks like he has a lot of squat induced into the chassis, and the high compression on the shock settings are to combat this. Alternatively, what I normally recommend is to induce a lot of anti-squat and control the separation with the rebound. This helps drive the tires into the pavement and keep them loaded
Hey Eric,. I spoke to you about my setup. I tried the settings you recommended and the track didn't like it. I think the track I run at is too slick to hit the tires hard at all. I'm going to try loosening up the rebound and stiffening the compression to see if that works better. Hopefully I will have someone to video for me this weekend so I won't be just guessing. I actually ended up launching in second gear most of the night which got me to the finals. Just didn't have enough for the last guy.
My shock settings are for radials, the car is not squating. My rear has antisquat, just not a ton. With a radial you use the rebound to control how hard and long it hits the tires(radials generally like to be hit hard). The compression is set high to keep them planted so they won't bounce back up. I can't speak for your slicks.
My shock settings are for radials, the car is not squating. My rear has antisquat, just not a ton. With a radial you use the rebound to control how hard and long it hits the tires(radials generally like to be hit hard). The compression is set high to keep them planted so they won't bounce back up. I can't speak for your slicks.
It looks like it's squatting. How much AS do you believe to have?
It looks like it's squatting. How much AS do you believe to have?
I have never actually plotted the car. But my car is very low so it looks squatted. I have downward angle from the chassis to the housing on the control arms. Mine had too much antisquat and was bouncing the tire. If I raised up the control arms they would have been running up hill to the housing. So I cut the rear springs some to take some antisquat out of the rear. This is how hard I was hittinghitting the tire at 18 psi. So I moved up to 20 psi. I also believe mine needs the rear rebound tightened up as well.
Last edited by jblankenship; 10-24-2016 at 09:40 PM.
Reason: Edit
You should really get a digital protractor if you haven't yet. You can zero it out against the chassis of the car then just look for your lca angle without having to do any math. Glad that it seems like your making some progress.
Here are some videos from this weekend. This was a no prep event so the track was pretty slick. I found a busted adjustable front shock last week which has probably been a huge problem getting this car figured out all summer. The shock was stuck on full loose so I replaced it. Front shocks were on 6 rear were on 11 compression and 9 extension. 28X11.50 mt et R bias sply tires on 16.5psi hot. Torque arm in middle hole, -2 on pinion angle and lca's in the bottom hole 2* angle up to chassis. I went a couple clicks each way on front and back but it kept unloading.
At your current ride height, you stated your rear LCA is going downward from the chassis to the rearend. With the LCA moved up one hole, is it level? How many LCA adjustment holes do you have, to go upward from your current location? What is your current ride height from the rim lip (closest to the ground) to the fender well?
At your current ride height, you stated your rear LCA is going downward from the chassis to the rearend. With the LCA moved up one hole, is it level? How many LCA adjustment holes do you have, to go upward from your current location? What is your current ride height from the rim lip (closest to the ground) to the fender well?
The rear of the car is at stock ride height minus the spring isolator. I would say it's only lowered about 1/2. The rear springs are stock. My relocation brackets only have two holes plus the stock hole. In the bottom hole I have 2.5* up angle from the rear end to the chassis. If I move it up bole it slopes down 1* to the chassis.
After watching the vids, this is only my opinion. Your rear tire doesn't seem to be "unloading". To me it looks like the tire is just starting to spin at a certain point. After it sticks, loads the tire, lifts the front tires, then the tires spin. Still under load.
I've heard a couple times that someone thinks it's a suspension problem but it turned out the tires were junk. Just a thought. Do you have another set of tires to try?
What was your rpm at the finish line prior to converter change?
Rpm at the finish of 1/8 mile was only around 6,500 but I was only dropping 300rpm on shifts with a 150 jet. This converter is tight on motor but seems to be money on a 200jet. I'm dropping around 1,000 rpm now.
10-18-2016, 09:59 PM
