When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
2000 Trans Am
Car weighs 4060 with me in it.
It has been 9.76@142, but "normal" sixty foots are pretty lame at only a low 1.5 (been 1.42 with nitrous on old combo)
May pull the driver side tire up a few inches.
No wheelies, no drama, goes straight, but get the "twist".
No front swaybar
Stock rear swaybar
Spohn short chassis mount torque arm
Spohn adjustable panhard bar
Spohn adjustable lower trailing arms (@ 4* downward slope to 9" rear axle housing)
Viking double adjustable rear shocks
Stock springs (95k miles)
Front, aside from no swaybar, is stock springs and stock struts.
Didnt really want to do a rear anti rollbar at this time
Can I stagger the rear shock settings to kinda trick the suspension?
In other words, can I tighten extension on left rear, and tighten compression on right rear and limit/lower the amount of twist?
Car lifts in the rear on launch, and usually maintains that lift for a while
Bottom pic shows how car sits at rest
Shock settings should never be used to compensate for vehicle twist as what you do at launch will effect how the vehicle reacts down the track also. What you need is a good ARB. I would suggest our 1-1/4 thick wall version if not the 1-1/2 based on your future goals. I would be careful as there is some companies that sell a knock off version of ours that is extremely thin on the brackets and wall thickness and they will struggle with a heavy vehicle such as yours.
Shock settings should never be used to compensate for vehicle twist as what you do at launch will effect how the vehicle reacts down the track also. What you need is a good ARB. I would suggest our 1-1/4 thick wall version if not the 1-1/2 based on your future goals. I would be careful as there is some companies that sell a knock off version of ours that is extremely thin on the brackets and wall thickness and they will struggle with a heavy vehicle such as yours.
Yes sir and I should have 1-1/4TW and 1-1/2TW in stock. I would prefer if you did the weld-on chassis brackets but we do offer the bolt-on with the 1-1/4 thick wall version. Not listed yet is our beefier builder links over our light weight aluminum version that will eventually become standard with our 1-1/2 housing mounted ARB. We offer the builder links for the 1-1/2 because generally speaking vehicles that require such an ARB generally have multiple different ride heights and the base link length may not work for that individual.
Yes sir and I should have 1-1/4TW and 1-1/2TW in stock. I would prefer if you did the weld-on chassis brackets but we do offer the bolt-on with the 1-1/4 thick wall version. Not listed yet is our beefier builder links over our light weight aluminum version that will eventually become standard with our 1-1/2 housing mounted ARB. We offer the builder links for the 1-1/2 because generally speaking vehicles that require such an ARB generally have multiple different ride heights and the base link length may not work for that individual.
Awesome.
My hope is that with the car not leaning over to the right, on launch, itll actually take a transbrake launch. The way it is now, it either hooks, or spins and goes right...I assume because that's the way the whole car is pulling?
I'm going to more than likely order this tomorrow when I get back to work, and on a real computer instead of this POS phone, lol. I have a 9" rear so need to comfirm tube diameter, and get the CL to CL measurement anyway. Will anyone be able to help me, or should I ask for anyone in particular?
Awesome.
My hope is that with the car not leaning over to the right, on launch, itll actually take a transbrake launch. The way it is now, it either hooks, or spins and goes right...I assume because that's the way the whole car is pulling?
I'm going to more than likely order this tomorrow when I get back to work, and on a real computer instead of this POS phone, lol. I have a 9" rear so need to comfirm tube diameter, and get the CL to CL measurement anyway. Will anyone be able to help me, or should I ask for anyone in particular?
Thanks.
Keep in mind an anti roll bar is not a traction device however it will improve the way a vehicle launches by taking out the twist.
Anyone can help you out when you call and get all your questions answered for you. (309)382-6252
Keep in mind an anti roll bar is not a traction device however it will improve the way a vehicle launches by taking out the twist.
Anyone can help you out when you call and get all your questions answered for you. (309)382-6252
Thanks. I need to re-measure, but if my "roll under the car and measure" number is accurate at 28.5", then I may be screwed, according to your guy's website...
NOTE: WE CAN MAKE THESE AT A CENTER TO CENTER OF 29.5 TO 32.5. ANYTHING WIDER IS TO WIDE BEYOND THE POINT OF GETTING INTO THE ARMS AND ANYTHING NARROWER WILL CREATE ISSUE FROM BEING MOVED TO FAR IN-WARD.
Thanks. I need to re-measure, but if my "roll under the car and measure" number is accurate at 28.5", then I may be screwed, according to your guy's website...
NOTE: WE CAN MAKE THESE AT A CENTER TO CENTER OF 29.5 TO 32.5. ANYTHING WIDER IS TO WIDE BEYOND THE POINT OF GETTING INTO THE ARMS AND ANYTHING NARROWER WILL CREATE ISSUE FROM BEING MOVED TO FAR IN-WARD.
It says you are using a stock rear sway bar which means clamp on style that one we do not technically recommend because clamps can spin changing the ARB settings but if you do stay that route they can be moved around. The factory spacing for sway bar mounts was 30" center to center.
Any performance sway bar or true anti roll bar should never have clamp on brackets and mounted using rubber or poly mounts at the axle tube. They will spin and the rubber and poly mounts will distort under a load.
It says you are using a stock rear sway bar which means clamp on style that one we do not technically recommend because clamps can spin changing the ARB settings but if you do stay that route they can be moved around. The factory spacing for sway bar mounts was 30" center to center.
Any performance sway bar or true anti roll bar should never have clamp on brackets and mounted using rubber or poly mounts at the axle tube. They will spin and the rubber and poly mounts will distort under a load.
I do run a stock swaybar.
My swaybar mounts are welded onto my 9" rear. I'd never even try to run ones that were just clamped on.
The mounts came on the housing when I bought it. I ordered it that way.
I'm just going by what the highlighted area above (in previous reply) says, copied from your page.
My mounts are exactly 28.5" center to center. (one end of tape measure held onto outside of opposite side bolt, as I only have 2 hands, lol)
Bottom pic you can actually see the original wear mark on the bar, roughly 3/4" outside of bushing area, which (x2 = 1.5" + my 28.5") agrees with your 30" factory measurement.
I have no clue why someone would put the mounts so far in. Maybe a lack of planning when designing something or knowledge, who knows as Strange does a dimension of 31.5 C-C but that is better than to narrow though it plays heck with some bigger aftermarket sway bars being that far out. The issue being so far in is it leaves room for error as the sway bar can slide side to side under a load and make contact with the ***** on aftermarket shocks. Not to mention that if your sway bar is sliding from side to side it is less efficient on doing its intended purpose.
Two things can happen here you can slot the big Moser sway bar brackets and extend your C-C to hopefully get to that 29.5 if not I can build a custom one as the measurements given are based on what I keep on the shelf. We have a system that allows us to make that range listed above so we no longer have to build per order.
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Slideshow: The controversial Ferrari F6 swaps its original flat-12 for a Corvette Z06-derived LT4 V8 and sends power to four rear wheels through a custom-built drivetrain.
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Slideshow:These GM engines didn't just make huge power, they survived abuse, boost, track days, and six-digit mileage with a reputation for refusing to quit.
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Slideshow: From wobbling harmonic balancers to failed EBCMs, these are the issues that define long-term C5 ownership and what repairs typically involve.
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Slideshow: A modern Camaro transformed into a retro icon, this limited-run "Bandit" build blends nostalgia with brute force in a way few revivals manage.
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Slideshow: Cadillac didn't just crash the high-performance luxury vehicle party, it showed up loud, supercharged, and occasionally a little unhinged...
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Slideshow: A one-off sports car that looks like a vintage Italian exotic-but hides a C6 Corvette underneath-just sold for the price of a new mid-engine Corvette.
Staggered shock settings, help twist? 
