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Old Jun 4, 2021 | 05:04 AM
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Default Wiring Help....

Not sure where to put this and I've searched the site pretty good....

I have a 96 Z that is race only and want to yank every bit of wiring that is in the car! Will be swapping to an ls soon and only want what is absolutely needed! Are there any posts or videos to help with my project?
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Old Jun 4, 2021 | 08:47 AM
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If you don't need wiring for anything but enough to run the LS, then take everything out of your car and just use whatever LS harness you plan to use.
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Old Jun 4, 2021 | 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by wretched73
If you don't need wiring for anything but enough to run the LS, then take everything out of your car and just use whatever LS harness you plan to use.
That's what I want to do...just need gauges, ignition and switches! But I need to know how to wire them so everything works properly!
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Old Jun 5, 2021 | 05:02 AM
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My suggestion would be if you can swing it, get the Holley Dominator ignition system with their dash, and you will have pretty much everything you need. Gauges, Tach, wideband, progressive, 2step, multiple retards, and unlimited tuning. Really is the best bang for your buck. That all pretty much just plugs together. Has very good directions. Wish we would have went that route. We used trailer cord for the clearance and tail lights, and that 2 wire in a sheath for every thing else. Fans, headlights, fuel pump, water pump, bottle heaters, starter button, nitrous solenoids. We have everything on 20amp switches only, that have only 15amps or less draw on them.. Only thing we use relays on is nitrous related. Solenoids, heaters, TB interrupt for system, but not the TB itself. Get a label maker and label everything multiple times from the starting point to ending. We have everything in that braided loom. If anything does happen to go wrong wiring wise, you can find it in seconds. Everything is on its own 20amp fused switch and have never blown a fuse. We use a 20amp Biondo TB button on the wheel, and it is wire direct from the switch to the TB solenoid. It is on a 20amp fuse too, and have never blown it. Zero lag on release too.

Last edited by TTur1996; Jun 8, 2021 at 06:53 AM.
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Old Jun 6, 2021 | 09:24 AM
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Like the guy above said, pull all the wiring out and use the Holley Dominator. It can handle everything you’ll need.

The only OEM wiring I’d leave in the car, is the headlight and tail light harness. Run them into a switch panel on the dash.

Good luck with your project.
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Old Jun 7, 2021 | 03:10 AM
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Originally Posted by TTur1996
My suggestion would be if you can swing it, get the Holley Dominator ignition system with their dash, and you will have pretty much everything you need. Gauges, Tach, wideband, progressive, 2step, multiple retards, and unlimited tuning. Really is the best bang for your buck. That all pretty much just plugs together. Has very good directions. Wish we would have went that route. We used trailer cord for the clearance and tail lights, and that 2 wire in a sheath for every thing else. Fans, headlights, fuel pump, water pump, bottle heaters, starter button, nitrous solenoids. We have everything on 20amp switches only, that have only 15amps or less draw on them.. Only thing we use relays on is nitrous related. Solenoids, heaters, TB interrupt for system, but not the TB itself. Get a label maker and label everything multiple times from the starting point to ending. We have everything in that braided loom. If anything does happen to go wrong wiring wise, you can find it in seconds. Everything is on its own 20amp fused switch and have never blown a fuse. We use a 60amp Biondo TB button on the wheel, and it is wire direct from the switch to the TB solenoid. It is on a 20amp fuse too, and have never blown it. Zero lag on release too.
Thanks for the info but could you send a link? Just spent the last hour and half looking but no luck!
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Old Jun 8, 2021 | 06:51 AM
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https://www.holley.com/products/fuel.../parts/554-114
https://www.holley.com/products/gaug.../parts/553-106
https://nitrousexpress.com/images/trans_brake.pdf In case your going to go NOS. Not sure but it may be controlled by the box too.
https://www.menards.com/main/tools/a...708109&ipos=35
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BEL7...wire+in+sheath
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-74135
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-74134
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sbr-mush-o?rrec=true Thought it was 20 amp. Still no problems hooking it direct.
The initial cost is up there, but if you have to buy everything separate its a wash, and you still won't have nearly the amount of what the Dominator box offers.
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Old Jun 8, 2021 | 11:07 PM
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Originally Posted by TTur1996
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel.../parts/554-114
https://www.holley.com/products/gaug.../parts/553-106
https://nitrousexpress.com/images/trans_brake.pdf In case your going to go NOS. Not sure but it may be controlled by the box too.
https://www.menards.com/main/tools/a...708109&ipos=35
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BEL7...wire+in+sheath
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-74135
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-74134
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sbr-mush-o?rrec=true Thought it was 20 amp. Still no problems hooking it direct.
The initial cost is up there, but if you have to buy everything separate its a wash, and you still won't have nearly the amount of what the Dominator box offers.
Thanks for your help and the links! As my dad says...Bad *** Ain't Cheap and Cheap Ain't Bad ***!!
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Old Jun 10, 2021 | 09:44 AM
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Go check out Devin's videos on you tube, https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC9V...CvbNF_9xZjWxkw He does a lot of race car wiring, and holley ecu installs, and has lots of videos on the right and wrong way to wire up your car. If it's all race, I would 100% pull out everything from the car. Keep the connectors for the head, tail, and brakes lights and do like above with the dominator and pro dash. Use a label maker, a lot, good connectors, and plan your system out before cutting or terminating a single wire. Draw up your diagram so you're not working from memory in the pits one day either.
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Old Jun 10, 2021 | 10:19 PM
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There are many ways to go about this. If you are on a budget you could just use the stock pcm and a stand alone harness. On a 96 you can use oil pressure and coolant temp piggy backed from the sensors into the factory panel.

You should be able to get the tach signal from the pcm and run it to the cluster if your intention is to keep it. Are you wanting to run a speedometer and what type of transmission are you running ? As for the chassis wiring a simple solution is the Leash street strip board.

Remove everything, keep the pigtails and wire it up. You also have inputs/outputs for switch panel, trans brake and any other accessories you would need to run, fans, line lock etc. For what you get it is reasonably priced and will make things easy. Check out the harness from Precision Fab and wire as well, if you don’t want to make your own.

Then there’s aftermarket EFI systems and that can get expensive quick as you have found. Some more information on what your plans are would help to get better answers.
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Old Jun 14, 2021 | 06:13 AM
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Originally Posted by biketopia
Go check out Devin's videos on you tube, https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC9V...CvbNF_9xZjWxkw He does a lot of race car wiring, and holley ecu installs, and has lots of videos on the right and wrong way to wire up your car. If it's all race, I would 100% pull out everything from the car. Keep the connectors for the head, tail, and brakes lights and do like above with the dominator and pro dash. Use a label maker, a lot, good connectors, and plan your system out before cutting or terminating a single wire. Draw up your diagram so you're not working from memory in the pits one day either.
Thanks, I'll definitely check out his channel!
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Old Jun 14, 2021 | 06:20 AM
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Originally Posted by gjohnsonws6
There are many ways to go about this. If you are on a budget you could just use the stock pcm and a stand alone harness. On a 96 you can use oil pressure and coolant temp piggy backed from the sensors into the factory panel.

You should be able to get the tach signal from the pcm and run it to the cluster if your intention is to keep it. Are you wanting to run a speedometer and what type of transmission are you running ? As for the chassis wiring a simple solution is the Leash street strip board.

Remove everything, keep the pigtails and wire it up. You also have inputs/outputs for switch panel, trans brake and any other accessories you would need to run, fans, line lock etc. For what you get it is reasonably priced and will make things easy. Check out the harness from Precision Fab and wire as well, if you don’t want to make your own.

Then there’s aftermarket EFI systems and that can get expensive quick as you have found. Some more information on what your plans are would help to get better answers.
At the moment we are running a th350 and mu plan is to have as simple as possible wiring for a few gauges(tack, oil temp and pressure, coolant temp, nitrous ect.) and tranbrake! Basically a racecar wiring set up! Thanks for the info!

Last edited by prater_1; Jun 27, 2021 at 04:17 AM.
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