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Old Oct 23, 2021 | 08:20 AM
  #1  
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Default 60ft Help Needed

Went out last night and could not cut a 60 to save my life. Car is a 2006 Procharged GTO, M6, AFCO DA shocks, on 26X11 Hoosier bias plys no tubes (6 runs on the tires). I do a 1st gear burnout for about 10 seconds on the first burnout for the night then shorter ones thereafter. The major differences from a month ago are different track (Atlanta Dragway> Silver Dollar), 20 degrees cooler, and I took about 80lbs out of the car (none of the weight removal was behind the seats).

A month ago it would consistently go 1.61x in the 60 foot. Last night I let the clutch out at 5k and got MASSIVE wheelhop to the point where interior panels came loose (tires 15 psi cold). So then I tried 13 psi cold and a 4k launch and it bogged hard then was super unstable on the big end. After shitting myself, because of the rear end wobbling around, I went to 18 psi cold and tried launches from 3500-5000 and they were mostly bogging except for one where I had a strange burnout and it blew the tires off. Also, the tires are feathered to **** with a really rough texture on them now. Not sure if that is because of a rough shutdown area or something up track. Should I keep adding air until the tires slip to get wheel speed up? Something else? Let me know what you think, TIA.
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Old Oct 24, 2021 | 07:24 PM
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From: olympia, wash
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Feathering of the rubber is hurting you.
Probably caused by doing hard launches on asphalt.
Swap the tires from side to side as a start. Your not going to get anywhere until you do that.
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Old Oct 25, 2021 | 05:39 PM
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I agree the feathering is bad news. No launches at all besides the track so they got feathered there for sure. I think next time out I will air up (20 psi cold) and launch harder. It seems like I am not getting the tire slip I need to get out of the hole. The wheelhop was real strange though because its never happened before with bias plies.
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Old Oct 25, 2021 | 07:53 PM
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From: olympia, wash
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20 psi seems way high to me.
Swap the tires, side to side first.
Start with maybe 15lbs, and launch at the rpm you usually do.
Repeat same thing for your next run.
Then either add a a cpl lb's of air or take a cpl away.
Launch the at the same rpms as the first run's.
Check your 60' on your time slip and go from there.
It is uber important to do the same launch procedure every run.
It wont help to adjust your psi, and change your launch rpm at the same time
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Old Oct 26, 2021 | 02:06 PM
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A clutch hit controller like my Hitmaster can make launching a stick shift car easy. You will be able to dead hook without bogging, much easier and more consistent than chasing wheelspeed.

Grant
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Old Feb 3, 2022 | 04:44 PM
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So I am bumping this up as I have determined that "radial prep" is what is killing me. The track sprays glue down to a mirror shine and I can't get the slicks to predictably slip to get some wheel speed. Any tips for using a slick on radial prepped track? TIA
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Old Feb 4, 2022 | 09:12 AM
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See post #5.
The Hitmaster makes dead hook stick shift launches without bogging the engine a reality, slicks or radials. No wheelspeed required.
Here's a link to the Hitmaster install & tuning guide... Hitmaster install guide
Here's a link to my page about advanced clutch tuning... Advanced clutch tuning page

Grant
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Old Feb 4, 2022 | 02:40 PM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by weedburner
See post #5.
The Hitmaster makes dead hook stick shift launches without bogging the engine a reality, slicks or radials. No wheelspeed required.
Here's a link to the Hitmaster install & tuning guide... Hitmaster install guide
Here's a link to my page about advanced clutch tuning... Advanced clutch tuning page

Grant
I appreciate you trying to help but I am not wanting to add another variable/adjustment to the car. As it is I can adjust tire pressure up/down, rebound, compression, launch RPM, ride height, spring preload, fuel/air/spark, and weight over the rear end. Really looking for guidance on which way to go with adjustments to avoid bogging or wheelhopping on such a sticky track. I am sure your product is great and I understand the theory behind it but in this case I would prefer to keep it simple like so many others cutting good 60's.
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Old Feb 4, 2022 | 06:16 PM
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The guys that are cutting good 60's likely don't have the same clutch as you do. The clutch and how it interacts with the engine is the key part of the puzzle that brings the engine/chassis together as an efficient package.

Grant
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