Tips for new racer
Last night was my first time at the track and wanted to see if anyone has any tips for a better 60ft and launch rpm/shift rpm. I have a torquer V2. Can with 3.90 gears. Lca is on the second from bottom with around 2 pinion angle, I have Viking crusaders with 275-60-15 et streets ss
My rear adjustments are c-3 r-13
19psi
My rear adjustments are c-3 r-13
19psi
With a M6 and radials, the 60' is all about the clutch.
...a 425ftlb engine launching from 4000 is only making at most 324hp during launch, it's just simple math. If the clutch then pulls rpm down any further than 4000 as it engages, average hp will drop even lower during that critical first 60'. This scenario is hard on the clutch itself, as it has to slip a long time to prevent severe bog.
...but if you bump that launch up to 6000, now that 425ftlb engine is making up to 486hp at the drop of the clutch. In addition to that 486hp, it's also got a substantial inertia discharge that's now boosting its output while the clutch is pulling the engine down to its torque peak. The result is far more power available to get the car moving in that first 60'.
The typical problem with raising launch rpm though, is that more rpm also increases how hard the engine and its inertia can hit the drivetrain when you dump the clutch. Basically, the faster the clutch pulls the engine down, the harder the hit is going to be on the drivetrain/tires, which in-turn increases the chances of breakage and wheelspin problems. The key to harnessing more launch rpm is the ability to control how fast the clutch pulls the engine down. You can try to modulate clutch engagement with your foot, but even the best foot can't compete with the precision and consistency of an adjustable clutch hit controller. A clutch hit controller is probably the most cost-effective tool you can add to a stick shift drag car on radials, adding one will also save your car/clutch from a lot of wear/tear that would result from you attempting to do the same with your foot.
Grant
...a 425ftlb engine launching from 4000 is only making at most 324hp during launch, it's just simple math. If the clutch then pulls rpm down any further than 4000 as it engages, average hp will drop even lower during that critical first 60'. This scenario is hard on the clutch itself, as it has to slip a long time to prevent severe bog.
...but if you bump that launch up to 6000, now that 425ftlb engine is making up to 486hp at the drop of the clutch. In addition to that 486hp, it's also got a substantial inertia discharge that's now boosting its output while the clutch is pulling the engine down to its torque peak. The result is far more power available to get the car moving in that first 60'.
The typical problem with raising launch rpm though, is that more rpm also increases how hard the engine and its inertia can hit the drivetrain when you dump the clutch. Basically, the faster the clutch pulls the engine down, the harder the hit is going to be on the drivetrain/tires, which in-turn increases the chances of breakage and wheelspin problems. The key to harnessing more launch rpm is the ability to control how fast the clutch pulls the engine down. You can try to modulate clutch engagement with your foot, but even the best foot can't compete with the precision and consistency of an adjustable clutch hit controller. A clutch hit controller is probably the most cost-effective tool you can add to a stick shift drag car on radials, adding one will also save your car/clutch from a lot of wear/tear that would result from you attempting to do the same with your foot.
Grant




