How-To: Removing Door Bars
Originally Posted by GIZMO
Start to finish it takes me about thirty minutes to do one door.
Seriously, the second door went better, having done the first. It took a few minutes to get the door panel off this time, 25 minutes to cut the bar, 25 minutes to chop the rear part to the minimum needed to hold the latch, an hour to get the door off and the rest of the bar unbolted and removed, and another half hour to get the door back on. The first door lined up first try, but the second took several tries to get it to fit right.
why remove the door bars?? is this on street or drag cars only? if it's street and you get hit in the door could that cause you to get hurt worse? i'm all for loosing weight so if it's safe for street cars i may do it too.
Originally Posted by mike c.
why remove the door bars?? is this on street or drag cars only? if it's street and you get hit in the door could that cause you to get hurt worse? i'm all for loosing weight so if it's safe for street cars i may do it too.
Originally Posted by mike c.
so,it seems this mod is for a race car and not really for a street car.
i get it. alot of you guys take them out due to having a roll cage.i have no cage and a 10sec street car. i don't plain on adding a cage.the track has never said anything to me other then i should think about getting a window net.a net is funny since i have no cage.this summer i'm going to make a big dent tword the 9's and will still have no cage. thanks.
Originally Posted by mike c.
i get it. alot of you guys take them out due to having a roll cage.i have no cage and a 10sec street car. i don't plain on adding a cage.the track has never said anything to me other then i should think about getting a window net.a net is funny since i have no cage.
this summer i'm going to make a big dent tword the 9's and will still have no cage. thanks.
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Verdad Gallardo NOSEUP-i have been in a rollover wreck two years ago. i had the side of my head stapled back togeather. it's no different then a guy taking his new ride on a top out run to see what it will do,cars don't come with cages. i'm sure most all of us have seen our 150mph speedo and toped it out(i have) my car looks stock,i just want to keep it that way for as long as i can.
though I'm sure most here inderstand where you're coming from
TECH Enthusiast
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ya know the only problem with removing them? some ******* that comes in from the side is gonna **** you up. mine were in, are in, and staying so.
http://photobucket.com/albums/v230/nova5/z28damage/
view pass is "scfyb"
http://photobucket.com/albums/v230/nova5/z28damage/
view pass is "scfyb"
Thread Starter
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From: Chicago, IL
Just cut a hole in the very bottom of the door so you can slide the bar out on an angle. You'll never see the hole. You have to take the door off to slide it out through the wiring harness hole.
noseup-death comes to us all my friend,sooner,later or how makes no difference to me. if i die,my family will not need me or anyone to support them for they will get tons of cash from my death 
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From: hewitt, nj
Originally Posted by Magnus
Just cut a hole in the very bottom of the door so you can slide the bar out on an angle. You'll never see the hole. You have to take the door off to slide it out through the wiring harness hole.
Hey Keith, you wouldn't have any pic's of the underneath of your doors would you?
Thanks!
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I don't have pics... but the fiberglass cuts REAL cleanly with a hole saw cutter... and then after you lside the bar out you just put some black paint on it.. and you can't even see it.. unless you are on the ground looking up.
Originally Posted by Magnus
I don't have pics... but the fiberglass cuts REAL cleanly with a hole saw cutter... and then after you lside the bar out you just put some black paint on it.. and you can't even see it.. unless you are on the ground looking up.
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From: Hou/Cypress , TX.
Originally Posted by critter
LOL!!! I should have hired you! An hour's work can't cost that much!
Seriously, the second door went better, having done the first. It took a few minutes to get the door panel off this time, 25 minutes to cut the bar, 25 minutes to chop the rear part to the minimum needed to hold the latch, an hour to get the door off and the rest of the bar unbolted and removed, and another half hour to get the door back on. The first door lined up first try, but the second took several tries to get it to fit right.
Seriously, the second door went better, having done the first. It took a few minutes to get the door panel off this time, 25 minutes to cut the bar, 25 minutes to chop the rear part to the minimum needed to hold the latch, an hour to get the door off and the rest of the bar unbolted and removed, and another half hour to get the door back on. The first door lined up first try, but the second took several tries to get it to fit right.
Took me 2 weeks for one door !! 
Well pretty much every chance I could get I would get in the garage and mess with it , Thats why it took 2 weeks for one door. This is definetily not worth it unless you plan to go with lexan windows IMO. 
Originally Posted by Larry
I ground a 10 mm socket with flats on the end so I could wrench it with an open end wrench. Worked like a charm!
Well I might as well add my technique since it's different than any listed:
Cut down a 10 mm socket on a lathe and MIG welded some flat steel to it for a handle. Once broke loose, I cut a slot in the end of the bolt with a Dremel and quickly turned it out with a long screwdriver.
Cut the door bar up in four pieces with an acetylene torch, using an exhaust shield to protect the door.
Each bar is 7.1 lbs on my digital fish scale; the inner door pannel is 9.2 lbs. The only part I put back on was the small plastic bezel that goes around the door handle and the switches.
Cut down a 10 mm socket on a lathe and MIG welded some flat steel to it for a handle. Once broke loose, I cut a slot in the end of the bolt with a Dremel and quickly turned it out with a long screwdriver.
Cut the door bar up in four pieces with an acetylene torch, using an exhaust shield to protect the door.
Each bar is 7.1 lbs on my digital fish scale; the inner door pannel is 9.2 lbs. The only part I put back on was the small plastic bezel that goes around the door handle and the switches.
Last edited by Cal; Jun 6, 2005 at 01:37 PM.