CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Brian its no secret to me you know suspension. I could use some input on 60' vs. track conditions, where do I start?
Current setup is:
Stock TA w/ poly bushing and poly trans bushing, stock PHB, stock rear sway bar, Stock 3.23 gears
QA1 (R) front w/ QA1 Springs on 6 for tighter track, 4 for looser
QA1 rears w/ stock springs on 4 for tighter and 2 for looser.
BADZ LCA's sitting in new Relocation brackets
Unsure what the pinion angle is.
Not sure of the weight, IIRC last time I weighed her she was knocking 3550 with me at race weight. I have run my best 60' on a 2yr old MT Drag 26x15x8" on 15x10" ProStar rim, big crown, old dry tires, but hooked a series of 1.41" on a small stall juicing out of the hole. Currently I am using MT Drs 275/50/15 and on motor have cut 1.6's, will juice it soon to see how they do. Our track in Hawaii is either prepped (3night a month basically) or not(3 fridays and 2 saturdays a month). On motor I tend to lift the fronts, reducing my 60' and ET. I have found tightening up the front and rear helps keep em on the ground, and produces the best times.
I plan on upgrading rearend so I havent swapped out the PHR, Sway Bar and TA yet, but do plan on it. With the new rear I would like to go to a 28" tire and some gearing.
Any info you would care to share with me to help keep the fronts down, and hook better with what I have would be greatly appreciated.

Also, what kind of front end alignment to optimize a street strip setting? Putting a CM K Member and A Arms on soon, so will need to get her aligned.

TIA

Charlie

MADMAN

iTrader: (4)

With what you have for suspension right now the car seems to be working. You have obviously learned some on the shock settings. On the drag radials the key is going to be to shock the tire. If you dont hit it it will spin. The front is going to have to lift some. What I normally do when I get to a track is walk the starting line. I look for bald spots and see how the rubber has adhered to the track. I;m looking for if it is greasy or tacky. I also look at track temp. Then I get the car and make changes based on these observations. If the track is greasy then I will lower the air pressure a little and take a click out of the rear shocks. Also if you see bald spots then try to move the car over a little to one side or the other. If the track is good and tacky then I will add air and tighten the rear up. Also if you see the track greasy do a short burnout and stage the car.

Z8'S

iTrader: (6)

That or put a HUGE tire on it.

silverZ98

iTrader: (6)

so if the track is gressy soften up the rear? and if it is tacky stiffin the rear? im learning here all so. right now my set up is stock fronts and 8way adjustables agx in rear. plan on a full hal set up soon. tubler bmr LCA;s panhard and track pak. my pinon is set at -2. and when i go to track i put rear on 8 the stiffest setting. my car is a m6 and running et streets at 15psi on motor i only cut low 1.8's and some mid 1.7's. i know those suck. any help you can give me i be great full

CAT3

iTrader: (9)

Brian, much Mahalo for that lesson...I was actually trying to do more burnout based on slicker track surface, obviously didnt pay attention to the keep the tires only a few degree more then the surface