burnout with a stalled a4
Launching!
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 218
Likes: 0
From: NV
Originally Posted by GM Muscle
Play around an do whatever works for you. 
I have talked to several builders and leaving it in "D" is just as easy on the trans as any other method. Being consistent is the key to winning drag races. Get a sequence of how you do things down cold in your mind, so that it becomes second nature. Less chance for mistakes that way.
When you get into competition like E.T. bracket racing or index racing, every detail becomes imporant to running consistent times. Nothing wrong with doing burnouts in "2" on the selector, but doing the same in "D" if that's what you have gotten used to might be best for you. Just so we get into a "routine" that works for us and stay with it, we will make fewer mistakes and have an edge on the competition. If all you do is play around on street car nights, then it doesn't matter. Change things around all you want, have fun making lots of smoke with your burnout.
However if you want to get a consistent car to run the number better than the other guy, you don't overheat your tires doing a smokey burnout to impress your buddies. Lots of books have already been written on this, and I don't need to write another one here, but getting into a routine and sticking with it is one of the most important parts of drag racing. Even the Top Fuel guys do things the same each and every time down to the last detail. Getting an edge on the other guy is what wins races. Have fun, and be safe!
I put my car into limp mode the first time at the track with my SS4000 stall.
I found out that by holding the car with the brakes(NO MPH) and reving past 3000 rpm the computer set off "limp mode" due to too high rpm with no mph detected.
I was told it will due that if held for around 15-20 seconds.
I adjusted the way i stage the car ,just by stalling it less to fully stage .
I have never had that happen again.
The computer will not complain about the high rpm as long as it is not held for too long. Then it will trip "limp mode".
On that run i started and stayed in 2nd gear and ran 13.50@89 on the rev limiter
.
A 2 step will fix that problem.
A line-lock will make the burn out easier.
Practice will make it all better.
P.S. 2000 models will start in second if the shifter is put in second. My SS does.
Good luck,Dave
I found out that by holding the car with the brakes(NO MPH) and reving past 3000 rpm the computer set off "limp mode" due to too high rpm with no mph detected.
I was told it will due that if held for around 15-20 seconds.
I adjusted the way i stage the car ,just by stalling it less to fully stage .
I have never had that happen again.
The computer will not complain about the high rpm as long as it is not held for too long. Then it will trip "limp mode".
On that run i started and stayed in 2nd gear and ran 13.50@89 on the rev limiter
.A 2 step will fix that problem.
A line-lock will make the burn out easier.
Practice will make it all better.
P.S. 2000 models will start in second if the shifter is put in second. My SS does.
Good luck,Dave
i know what you guys are experiencing with the limp mode. You need to shut off the po757 code once you put a 3,500+ converter in. I had the same problems last week after my converter install. If i were to hold the brake and rev it up past 3,000 i would be locked out of all gears except for 2nd. My car was throwing the code(not sure if yours is or not, it could be detecting the problem but not setting the ses lite) Well once i removed/turned off the po757 code i can brake stall it all day long and it wont cut me out of the gears. Check it out, do a reprogame with the code turned off and let us know how it goes.. AS for the burnout i would have to say its best to keep it in 1st gear, bring the rpms up high enough to spin them and wait 5-10sec and your good. If you put it in drive the trans is going to be shifting gears which is pointless since your not going anywhere.. Im not saying putting it in drive is no good or that 1st gear is better,, doesnt matter what gear its in, if the tires are spinning and producing smoke thats all that matters.
Here is my routine and its seemed to work fine. If anyone sees anything wrong let me know so I'm not giving out bad info and also so others know too...
Get the rear tires in the water box, then pull just ahead of the water. Slightly hold in the brake pedal with my left foot, make sure the gear selector is in 2 (I have a 99 so this does not lock the car into 2nd gear from a stop), and put my foot to the floorboard.
The RPMs will climb through first and you can feel the car shift into second. I have the selector in 2 so it will only go as high as my rev limiter, so once it's shifted into second I modulate the gas pedal until I feel I have enough heat in the tires, then I back off of the brake and gas pedal (if you stay in the gas while you roll away you'll peg the limiter and I hate doing that) and ROLL OUT OF THE BURNOUT towards the staging beams.
With a light foot on the brake, a quick stab of the gas, and water on the ET Streets they spin pretty freely without me having a line lock. I'd still like to get one to save some wear and tear on the rear brakes, but I get by more than fine without one.
Get the rear tires in the water box, then pull just ahead of the water. Slightly hold in the brake pedal with my left foot, make sure the gear selector is in 2 (I have a 99 so this does not lock the car into 2nd gear from a stop), and put my foot to the floorboard.
The RPMs will climb through first and you can feel the car shift into second. I have the selector in 2 so it will only go as high as my rev limiter, so once it's shifted into second I modulate the gas pedal until I feel I have enough heat in the tires, then I back off of the brake and gas pedal (if you stay in the gas while you roll away you'll peg the limiter and I hate doing that) and ROLL OUT OF THE BURNOUT towards the staging beams.
With a light foot on the brake, a quick stab of the gas, and water on the ET Streets they spin pretty freely without me having a line lock. I'd still like to get one to save some wear and tear on the rear brakes, but I get by more than fine without one.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 4,578
Likes: 49
From: Kissimmee, FL
Originally Posted by josh99ta
With a LIGHT foot on the brake, a quick stab of the gas, and water on the ET Streets they spin pretty freely without me having a line lock. I'd still like to get one to save some wear and tear on the rear brakes, but I get by more than fine without one.
That was my problem, too much of a heavy foot on the brake
yea line lock probably is best... i have not been able to purchase one even t hough they're cheap. i don't really need it. th400 trans w/ a 3,500 stall, 4.10 gear, and a stroker motor = easy burnouts. i just leave it in first, and it heats those drag radials up in a hurry. i hold it around 5,500-6,000 for my burnout and i just drive through it after a few seconds. consistant low 1.5 60' times off idle.
but to save the brakes i'll probably get one for next season.
but to save the brakes i'll probably get one for next season.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
I had an experance last year where i did my burnout yb putting it in 1st held it for a while, shifted to 2nd(manualy) then road it out. while staging i put the shifter up into D. I had one of the softest launches ever then 2/3rds way down the track i was banging the limiter --- the car was stuck in second gear. I was told that one of my shift soelinoids stuck opened during the burnout. after turning the car off and restarting it the trans reset its self. It has shifted fine and hasnt happened since.
I was told that one of my shift soelinoids stuck opened during the burnout. after turning the car off and restarting it the trans reset its self. It has shifted fine and hasnt happened since. 