Help with QA1s...
Help with QA1s... I am looking to buy some Qa1s here in the near future but I am a little confused about some options...
My car is my Daily Driver...but I will sacrifice ALOT for good 60's.
I have a set of Sphon LCAs with Relo Brackets going on the car as well as a set on subframes.
It looks like most people just run SINGLE ADJUSTABLE front shocks but what SpringRate is best for me? Looks to be 275 but I am concerned with daily driving...would a 300 give up to much on the track? Or am I looking at this wrong? Dose the springrate have to do with weight?
Looks like the DA QA1s are a the ticket for the rear...will I really be able to take full advantage with them on a drag radial car?
Any help at all is appreciated!
My car is my Daily Driver...but I will sacrifice ALOT for good 60's.
I have a set of Sphon LCAs with Relo Brackets going on the car as well as a set on subframes.
It looks like most people just run SINGLE ADJUSTABLE front shocks but what SpringRate is best for me? Looks to be 275 but I am concerned with daily driving...would a 300 give up to much on the track? Or am I looking at this wrong? Dose the springrate have to do with weight?
Looks like the DA QA1s are a the ticket for the rear...will I really be able to take full advantage with them on a drag radial car?
Any help at all is appreciated!
I'm running singles on all four/coil overs on the rear. My junk isn't a max effort track car but not a DD either. With an aluminum block for DD'ing I went w/325# front drag springs and the 150# rears.
Correct on spring weight vs. weight. If it's a DD you don't wanna get too soft up front. Mine's set up a little tight on the street but that's what I was after.
A 325# "may be a bit light for an iron block on the street.
Front shocks set loose, rears a little tight(depending on prep/weather etc.)and the front comes up nice. Also running a WOLFE weld in rear drag bar which helps a bunch w/the launch/body roll.
WORLD of difference in my car going from totally stock to this combo. Junk actually hooks now and feels like a comepletely different car.
Also like the adjustability in ride height on all four. Having the car on the tires and still hooking is kewl....
If you're after the 60', and don't mind a lil ride compromise, you like 'em-
Correct on spring weight vs. weight. If it's a DD you don't wanna get too soft up front. Mine's set up a little tight on the street but that's what I was after.
A 325# "may be a bit light for an iron block on the street.
Front shocks set loose, rears a little tight(depending on prep/weather etc.)and the front comes up nice. Also running a WOLFE weld in rear drag bar which helps a bunch w/the launch/body roll.
WORLD of difference in my car going from totally stock to this combo. Junk actually hooks now and feels like a comepletely different car.
Also like the adjustability in ride height on all four. Having the car on the tires and still hooking is kewl....
If you're after the 60', and don't mind a lil ride compromise, you like 'em-
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Use a SINGLE ADJUSTABLE and 150# spring in the rear. In the front I would without a doubt run a DOUBLE ADJUSTABLE with a 275# for aluminum motors, 300# for iron blocks.
You can stiffen the shocks on the street and still corner/handle very well with a few clicks.
AT the track you can set up the front like a 90/10 90/20/ 90/30 80/20 70/30, there is a ton of possibilities you can tune the front shock and the single adjustable rears adjust like 40/40 50/50 60/60. I run my rears at #4. Good luck.
You can stiffen the shocks on the street and still corner/handle very well with a few clicks.
AT the track you can set up the front like a 90/10 90/20/ 90/30 80/20 70/30, there is a ton of possibilities you can tune the front shock and the single adjustable rears adjust like 40/40 50/50 60/60. I run my rears at #4. Good luck.
