Brake Line-Lock by SLP tricky
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
From: Near Cobaltville
Brake Line-Lock by SLP tricky So I got a line-lock for my front brakes. Problem is, you need to use a special computer to tell the traction control module to run so that all the air is removed. One mechanic told me to drive it on a gravel road and slam the brakes, which would engage the little motor, thus pushing out the bubbles. Unfortunatley, my baby don't run on gravel, so any suggestions on how to bleed that air (short of taking it in and paying a couple Benjamins to a brake shop)? 
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
From: Near Cobaltville
Originally Posted by 02SOMWS6
WTF are you talking about.Just follow the SLP instructions to the T and you will be fine. I didn't do any of what you said and everything works fine on my car
So are you saying that by simply unscrewing the line between the Master Cyl. and the Traction control unit I won't be opening that line? 'Cause if you are right (and I have no reason not to believe a guy in the 11 sec. club with over a 1000 posts) I'll be one happy camper
Check this out dude. I put that SLP line lock on my car also. Of course I had air in my lines afterwards. I needed to run somewhere quick and didnt have time to bleed them. I drove the car anyway with the pedal going almost to the floor before stopping. A couple of pumps before I pull up to a stop was all it took. Well I cant remember when it happened but my brakes started working fine on their own. Somehow the air got out of there and its been fine ever since. Thats been nearly 6 months.
yeah i did the same thing just bleed your brakes when your done.....thats all i did then you can do this!
http://media.putfile.com/Line-Lockers65
http://media.putfile.com/Line-Lockers65
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
From: Near Cobaltville
That was a sick Vid DNM12!!!!
ME WAN DO DAT
Unfortunately, I'm still getting mixed advice here. When I previously worked on my front brakes, I tried to bleed them using the standard method. But I couldn't get all the air out.
So I begrudgingly took it in to a brake shop and they confirmed what the manual specifically states, that you must use a special scan tool. They used it to activate the Traction Control motor and my brakes worked great after that. Also, the SLP kit has new lines to/from the new silanoid, which would inherently introduce more air into the system.
So 02SOMWS6, if you are reading this, maybe your ride doesn't have TC. NOTE: I have the SLP swith that automatically turns the TC off upon ignition, but this does not affect my problem.
ME WAN DO DAT
Unfortunately, I'm still getting mixed advice here. When I previously worked on my front brakes, I tried to bleed them using the standard method. But I couldn't get all the air out.
So I begrudgingly took it in to a brake shop and they confirmed what the manual specifically states, that you must use a special scan tool. They used it to activate the Traction Control motor and my brakes worked great after that. Also, the SLP kit has new lines to/from the new silanoid, which would inherently introduce more air into the system.
So 02SOMWS6, if you are reading this, maybe your ride doesn't have TC. NOTE: I have the SLP swith that automatically turns the TC off upon ignition, but this does not affect my problem.
Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
I installed all the lines left the nut into the abs a little loose.
Tapped the lines and solenoid with a wrench to get the easy bubbles of air out.
Took the cap off the reservoir and cupped my hand over the top but leaving a hole in my hand to blow into. Blew into the reservoir creating positive pressure. Tapped the lines/solenoid at the same time and watched for the bubbles to stop coming out of the line into the abs. When the bubbles stopped (while continuing to keep pressure) I tightened the nut.
I read it on here awhile back. Did it on my car along with my fiancee's without issue.
Tapped the lines and solenoid with a wrench to get the easy bubbles of air out.
Took the cap off the reservoir and cupped my hand over the top but leaving a hole in my hand to blow into. Blew into the reservoir creating positive pressure. Tapped the lines/solenoid at the same time and watched for the bubbles to stop coming out of the line into the abs. When the bubbles stopped (while continuing to keep pressure) I tightened the nut.
I read it on here awhile back. Did it on my car along with my fiancee's without issue.
I gravity bled the new lines to at least get most of the air out before tightening them to the ABS block. Then I did a regular old brake bleed on all 4 corners. That was 2 years ago, never had a problem since.
Some have said to cover all ground you can go out and just slam on the brakes hard enough to trigger the ABS and make it cycle. This should push out any bubbles from the ABS block further down the lines, and then bleed again the old fashioned way to get those remnant bubbles out.
Some have said to cover all ground you can go out and just slam on the brakes hard enough to trigger the ABS and make it cycle. This should push out any bubbles from the ABS block further down the lines, and then bleed again the old fashioned way to get those remnant bubbles out.
Originally Posted by mcamp001
Strange, I have TC and all I did was a complete system bleed (all 4 wheels, which is good maintenance anyway) and everything works fine.
Originally Posted by kanewolf
That was a sick Vid DNM12!!!!
ME WAN DO DAT
Unfortunately, I'm still getting mixed advice here. When I previously worked on my front brakes, I tried to bleed them using the standard method. But I couldn't get all the air out.
So I begrudgingly took it in to a brake shop and they confirmed what the manual specifically states, that you must use a special scan tool. They used it to activate the Traction Control motor and my brakes worked great after that. Also, the SLP kit has new lines to/from the new silanoid, which would inherently introduce more air into the system.
So 02SOMWS6, if you are reading this, maybe your ride doesn't have TC. NOTE: I have the SLP swith that automatically turns the TC off upon ignition, but this does not affect my problem.
ME WAN DO DAT
Unfortunately, I'm still getting mixed advice here. When I previously worked on my front brakes, I tried to bleed them using the standard method. But I couldn't get all the air out.
So I begrudgingly took it in to a brake shop and they confirmed what the manual specifically states, that you must use a special scan tool. They used it to activate the Traction Control motor and my brakes worked great after that. Also, the SLP kit has new lines to/from the new silanoid, which would inherently introduce more air into the system.
So 02SOMWS6, if you are reading this, maybe your ride doesn't have TC. NOTE: I have the SLP swith that automatically turns the TC off upon ignition, but this does not affect my problem.
The manuall is stating that incase you get air into the ABS hydraulic controll unit.
Even if you did, you can get it out w/o a scan tool.
Just bleed it out normal. Drive the car. At 15mph or so the ABSHCU will do a self check.
It will cycle the dump valves & any air trapped in there will go to the wheels on the next brake application. Just rebleed it & your set. That would be a worse case senerio. Usually a line lock install is pretty strai foward.
Even if you did, you can get it out w/o a scan tool.
Just bleed it out normal. Drive the car. At 15mph or so the ABSHCU will do a self check.
It will cycle the dump valves & any air trapped in there will go to the wheels on the next brake application. Just rebleed it & your set. That would be a worse case senerio. Usually a line lock install is pretty strai foward.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
From: Near Cobaltville
Originally Posted by wrencher
The manuall is stating that incase you get air into the ABS hydraulic controll unit.
Even if you did, you can get it out w/o a scan tool.
Just bleed it out normal. Drive the car. At 15mph or so the ABSHCU will do a self check.
It will cycle the dump valves & any air trapped in there will go to the wheels on the next brake application. Just rebleed it & your set. That would be a worse case senerio. Usually a line lock install is pretty strai foward.
Even if you did, you can get it out w/o a scan tool.
Just bleed it out normal. Drive the car. At 15mph or so the ABSHCU will do a self check.
It will cycle the dump valves & any air trapped in there will go to the wheels on the next brake application. Just rebleed it & your set. That would be a worse case senerio. Usually a line lock install is pretty strai foward.