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Old Sep 6, 2006 | 09:04 AM
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Default Few Miscellaneous Questions

First off a little bit of my setup...
My motor is expected to make 700-750ish fwhp... We figured the fuel system for 800fwhp to be on the safe side a little bit.
Car is currently a 6spd, but will undoubtedly (sp?) be recieving a Th-400 transplant in the near future.

So here's the questions:
Im ordering a new 9" today hopefully from Scott @ DLS, but I cant decide on a gear ratio.
I need something that will be decent with the 6spd for now, but perfect or at least close to perfect with the Th-400.
Anyone willing to recommend something based on their experiences?

Shocks and springs; I'd like to order these ASAP... Are the 12-ways worth the extra cost over the regular R-series?

Slicks and skinnys; The ET drags are bias ply... Do I HAVE to run a bias ply front tire?

Thanks in advance guys/gals!!

Last edited by Fire67; Sep 6, 2006 at 02:14 PM.
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Old Sep 6, 2006 | 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Fire67
First off a little bit of my setup...
My motor is expected to make 700-750ish fwhp... We figured the fuel system for 800fwhp to be on the safe side a little bit.
Car is currently a 6spd, but will undoubtedly (sp?) be recieving a Th-400 transplant in the near future.

So here's the questions:
Im ordering a new 9" today hopefully from Scott @ DLS, but I cant decide on a gear ratio.
I need something that will be decent with the 6spd for now, but perfect or at least close to perfect with the Th-400.
Anyone willing to recommend something based on their experiences?

Shocks and springs; I'd like to order these ASAP... Are the 12-ways worth the extra cost over the regular R-series?

Slicks and skinnys; The ET drags are bias ply... Do I HAVE to run a bias ply front tire?

Thanks in advance guys/gals!!
Here is my .02 on your questions.

The gear ratio should be matched to the engine RPM you will be running. To do this you will need to know where the engine makes power, what RPM you want to trap at, What size tire will you run, what is the converter slip, will you use a power adder at any time? These are just the basics of picking a gear ratio.

As for shocks the QA1 R series fronts are 12 way adjustable. Are you talking about double adjustable?

No you do not need to run a bias ply front. They are about 15 LBS a set lighter than the 156 radials you will find.

Not a lot of definite answers but food for thought.
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Old Sep 7, 2006 | 11:11 AM
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I have a freshly built 383 LT1 with cam specs as follows 23x,23x; .571,.576; 114
The heads just slightly outflow AFR 195cc competition ported heads (add 5-10cfm at every measurement point)

Just like it says in my sig, I will be running upwards of 15psi via a Procharger D1-sc.
We dont want to really spin the motor over 6500 due to the hydraulic roller valvetrain, and pcm limitations of 7200rpm.

Converter will be over 4000 for the stall speed, just havent quite decided on the exact # yet.

Tires will be 28X10.5 ETdrags on 15X10 prostars
Yes I meant Double adjustabe, not 12-way... Sorry
Raceweight is currently 35-3600 lbs for now. Will definitely be lightening the pig up some more though.. But the car sees some street duty so the lightening wont be extreme.

I dont want to trap any higher than 6K rpm, just in case I find out later that I need the extra 500rpm that I have left... Or should I figure more on the conservative side just in case?

I ran the calculator at Richmond Gear's website several ways and found an ideal range of 3.7ish to 4.1ish depending on what the car ends up weighing, what the dyno #'s actually end up being, and trap rpm variances..
We've been building for a target of 650 rwhp (with the existing M6) when the motors finally tuned in on the higher boost numbers..
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Old Sep 7, 2006 | 01:46 PM
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A 3.70 gear will give you a top end of 135, a 4.10 gear will net 121. That is with a 28 inch tire and a 6000 rpm limit. The numbers are based on a 1:1 ratio in top gear (M6 or A3-4). They do not account for converter slip. This will drop the top speed a bit based on how much slip you are seeing.

With what you have described I would say the car has the potential to run 135. That would put you out of gear or over 6000 RPM at the finish line.

Here is the calculator I used.
http://www.wallaceracing.com/calcmph.php

As far as shocks, I have the single adjustable and they are fine. The doubles give you a lot more control over the shocks. It's up to you, but I would think the singles are good.

HTH
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Old Sep 7, 2006 | 11:16 PM
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Thanks for the input... I ended up ordering my 9" from Scott @ DLS.
Specs out as follows:
-Moser Housing and 35spline axles
-Strange Pro Nodular center section
-3.70 street gears and a spool
-Billet 1350 series pinion yoke
-Back Brace welded on
-1/2" - 20 X 3" studs
-Narrowed 2.5" per side
-BMR swaybar brackets
That should all be here by next friday!!! We'll see how the gear works out for me when I get the new trans in a month or so.

That calculator is interesting... It uses different input information on the calculations than richmonds website, so its looking at it from a similar yet different point of view.
My revlimiter will probably be set at 66-6700rpms, so if I figure crossing the traps at 6000 with no slip... I should be somewhat safe. Just gonna have to keep my eye on the tack/shift light on the first couple of passes.

Now to do more shock/spring research...
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