5/8 Stud Longer then 4"??
Ran into a problem today and i am just wondering.........
Might need to bust out the Plasma cutter and grinder

Kyle
http://www.markwilliams.com/detail.aspx?ID=1613
best bet would be call them on Monday. There pretty helpful there. Let me know if you need any help.
http://www.markwilliams.com/detail.aspx?ID=1613
best bet would be call them on Monday. There pretty helpful there. Let me know if you need any help.
Thanks man..... here's whats going on and let me know what ya think.....
Well the rear went in fine....
Strange S60 Narrowed 3" per side
Weld 15X10 ProStars 5.5" B.S. M/T 325/50/15
1/2 spacer as per gators thread here
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...9&page=1&pp=20
Now the problem..... The wheels do have clearence from the inner fender wall with the spacers and i really didnt even need the offset pieces from Billingsley's LCA's.
The problem is my studs.....
I went with 5/8 studs and gator has 1/2 (confirmed this by calling him tonight)
With the spacer the studs arent long enough..... Pic's


Sorry for the crappy cell phone pic's. My camera was here at the house....
I guess what im asking is....
should i start chopping the inner fender to try and get another 1/2" there or longer studs (if they even make them)
I have the Strange 4" studs now and i know Moser makes a 4 13/32's, 5/8 stud.
Were we also messed up was the thickness of the wheel comes into play also... ie a prostar is alot thicker then an Alumastar....
smaller spacer??????????
Just looking for help guys....
this is whats cut out of the inner fender as of now....


Kyle
The easy fix here looking at the pics would be use a 5" stud. When putting on an alumastar, you would just have to use a longer spacer on the outside of the rim for the sleeve on the stud so the nut doesnt bottom out. Mark williams sells all different lengths to do this.
how much would you have to trim if you got rid of the spacer behind the rim? Running it at the track this way w/o the spacer would be a little safer but with 5/8" studs, I dont think its a major problem.
Man that minitub is realy calling your name right now...
Last edited by NRC-Motorsports; Dec 16, 2006 at 08:30 AM.
Only thing it did say was stacking of spacers prohibited
Trending Topics
I also thought spacers on the inside were not allowed on the back wheels. I'm running the spacers (look like really thick washers) that came w/ my 5/8" stud, but on the outside of the wheel.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Only thing it did say was stacking of spacers prohibited
meant to put safe,[will change]:but the only reason one be needed is because something is not right,backspace/rear length , and the measurement dont add up to a normal 3.5 stud, thats why i asked if he had the right stud,and by the pic[if thats a pic of his car with wheel off] he,s got bolts in there or pressed in stock type studs,not the 5/8 studs[that most use,the 5/8 stud that should be used, have a shank part that the wheel rides on,and is much stonger than bolts this is what we use,
the shank is over 2 " long stud is like 3.5,bob,
Last edited by NRC-Motorsports; Dec 16, 2006 at 08:48 AM.
Bolts (not studs) are 2.25 from the outside of the rotor to tip (approx)
Add .25 for rotor thickness, and .5 for axle flange thickness and you got a 3 inch bolt.
Ideally the rearend shoulda been made 1/2 inch longer on each side. Or wheel offset another 1/2 inch out. Dont know exactly if they're available at that dimension, but I wouldnt see why not.
A 4, or 4.375 inch bolt should work fine. Just a small set back...I'll get on the phone monday am...
Im looking at it right now..
With no spacer it does hit the top of the fender behind where the Bumpstops were before.... i do want to cut and it can be done i Just dont want to cut and then hit the spring.....

We will talk about here in a bit...
in the end it would prob be the same $$ spent on cutting compared to $90 for new studs......



