Cage questions
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Cage questions Car is going into the shop to get caged in the next few days. Its a WOLFE 10 point that I got from another member on here pretty cheap and its got bent door bars.
When you go to add on to the cage down the road IE HALO and beyond and all how much of the original 10 point is still used?
Should I have him just fab up some straight bars or just leave it as it is and have it changed when the cage is upgraded down the road?
Could you cut off the welded in bent door bars and swap them for straights down the road with the same main hoop?
Part of me thinks I should have him put some straights in then use the bents to make the crotch bars and use the rest to streghten up the cage a little more.
Thanks.
When you go to add on to the cage down the road IE HALO and beyond and all how much of the original 10 point is still used?
Should I have him just fab up some straight bars or just leave it as it is and have it changed when the cage is upgraded down the road?
Could you cut off the welded in bent door bars and swap them for straights down the road with the same main hoop?
Part of me thinks I should have him put some straights in then use the bents to make the crotch bars and use the rest to streghten up the cage a little more.
Thanks.
Last edited by JUICED96Z; Feb 24, 2007 at 01:53 PM.
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 10,023
Likes: 6
From: LT1 land...the "409" of the 90s!
Hmmm... why cut them out?
My eight point roll bar turned out to be much stronger then the car. We are now having to re-enforce some of the mounting points and add a few X braces. worst part is the gas tank has to come out again to do it
My eight point roll bar turned out to be much stronger then the car. We are now having to re-enforce some of the mounting points and add a few X braces. worst part is the gas tank has to come out again to do it
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Not sure how legal the bent bars are when you start upgading the cage or how well they would work.
I have a good fabricator so if it needs bracing he can hood me up.
My car needs A LOT of stiffining up though lol.
Its also cost effective because he will have the two pars to cut up and will just have to get two more bars and weld them in.
I was going to have him put a small peice from the main hoop to the over head bar on each side just to give it a little more strength above my body in the event of a roll over and it looks good also. Can you use the same thickness tube for that as the cage bars?
I have a good fabricator so if it needs bracing he can hood me up.
My car needs A LOT of stiffining up though lol.
Its also cost effective because he will have the two pars to cut up and will just have to get two more bars and weld them in.
I was going to have him put a small peice from the main hoop to the over head bar on each side just to give it a little more strength above my body in the event of a roll over and it looks good also. Can you use the same thickness tube for that as the cage bars?
Last edited by JUICED96Z; Feb 21, 2007 at 02:56 AM.
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 10,023
Likes: 6
From: LT1 land...the "409" of the 90s!
He will have to stuff it in and out to make sure it fits anyways 
Only thing IN my car right now is the dash. Front half comes next week. I have a Photo shoot on the 9th so we will be busting to get it done by then.
Only thing IN my car right now is the dash. Front half comes next week. I have a Photo shoot on the 9th so we will be busting to get it done by then.
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Well I got all this out today
Headliner (forgot about the little peice in the middle that holds it up between the t-tops so it FOLDED IN TWO!!!!!! DOH!!!!!!!!!!!!!
All the rear plastic minus the stuff on the hatch
some of the carpet pulled up
Rear seats have been gone for a while
Center consol loose
Dash cover
Plastic pannels above your feet
A-pillars
Dash is loose enough that you can shake it up and down
I am going to leave the dash in as it sits now and let him pull it the rest of the way and put it back in.
Huge pain and I am worried about busting something or not being able to drive it (saw some grounds that would have to be pulled I think)
Not much holding it in so no biggy.
Learned also that dash parts are HEAVY for what they are!
Headliner (forgot about the little peice in the middle that holds it up between the t-tops so it FOLDED IN TWO!!!!!! DOH!!!!!!!!!!!!!
All the rear plastic minus the stuff on the hatch
some of the carpet pulled up
Rear seats have been gone for a while
Center consol loose
Dash cover
Plastic pannels above your feet
A-pillars
Dash is loose enough that you can shake it up and down
I am going to leave the dash in as it sits now and let him pull it the rest of the way and put it back in.
Huge pain and I am worried about busting something or not being able to drive it (saw some grounds that would have to be pulled I think)
Not much holding it in so no biggy.
Learned also that dash parts are HEAVY for what they are!
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Car is being caged as we speak, they said they would take some pics. Should have the car back next Saturday since they will not be able to work on it Sunday or Monday.
Pulling the rest of the interior, crotch strap bars fabed and installed, installing the 5 point harnesses, TIG welding the 10 point cage, painting it, they are going to try and ditch the bent door bars and put in straight bars and then cut up the bent bars to make the "helmet bars", triming the dash pad to fit around the bars.
Paying $1,200 Other shops told me that price just to install it with a bare interior, no painting or harnesses or anything), might be a TAD more for the straight bars.
Considering I should have it back next Saturday (a week later and gave them about two weeks notice) night thats a pretty good price if you ask me.
Both guys MIG and TIG tubular aluminum and steel for a living, have a big garage with all the right equipment and lots of welding blankets.
Pulling the rest of the interior, crotch strap bars fabed and installed, installing the 5 point harnesses, TIG welding the 10 point cage, painting it, they are going to try and ditch the bent door bars and put in straight bars and then cut up the bent bars to make the "helmet bars", triming the dash pad to fit around the bars.
Paying $1,200 Other shops told me that price just to install it with a bare interior, no painting or harnesses or anything), might be a TAD more for the straight bars.
Considering I should have it back next Saturday (a week later and gave them about two weeks notice) night thats a pretty good price if you ask me.
Both guys MIG and TIG tubular aluminum and steel for a living, have a big garage with all the right equipment and lots of welding blankets.
Last edited by JUICED96Z; Feb 24, 2007 at 01:52 PM.
I added onto my alston cage to convert it from a rollbar to a full cage with halo, etc..... my cage guy cut the original straight door bar that was welded to the main hoop and attached the new stuff directlly to it.... you could never tell it was ever there....
so yeah you can do that just fine. i have straight bars on both sides and don't have any trouble getting in and out of the car. with the halo i use that as a handle, sit my *** on the straight bar and kinda fall into the seat.... easy..
so yeah you can do that just fine. i have straight bars on both sides and don't have any trouble getting in and out of the car. with the halo i use that as a handle, sit my *** on the straight bar and kinda fall into the seat.... easy..
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URGENT question!
I got a call from my welder and he said its MISSING the bar that runs under the dash that goes along the firewall.
The WOLFE 10 points have this bar correct?
WOLFE'S site has been down all day.
If I don't get an answer on here I will call them in the morning.
I bought it from a guy on here and thought it was all there when I got it. Still have his screen name.
Here is the link with pics
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ighlight=WOLFE
I got a call from my welder and he said its MISSING the bar that runs under the dash that goes along the firewall.
The WOLFE 10 points have this bar correct?
WOLFE'S site has been down all day.
If I don't get an answer on here I will call them in the morning.
I bought it from a guy on here and thought it was all there when I got it. Still have his screen name.
Here is the link with pics
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...ighlight=WOLFE
Last edited by JUICED96Z; Feb 25, 2007 at 08:24 PM.
i'm not sure if wolfe setups come with that bar.... with my alson kit that was optional..... it's not needed all that much unless you have modded your firewall.... and you're gonna have a fun time getting the dash to do back in with that bar in place I'm thinking......
my full cage doesn't have one and I trust it will stay together in a crash believe me...
my full cage doesn't have one and I trust it will stay together in a crash believe me...
???
Originally Posted by ricekilla2000
i have a 8 pt with bent bars as longs as it starts over your shoulder you should be fine. straight bars are a pain to get in and out
Originally Posted by Old Geezer
The door bars have to be installed so they pass mid point between the shoulder and elbow. Having it above the shoulder is not correct...
My 10 pt wolfe cage came with the dash bar. I actually welded it in today, and I belive its 1 1/4" tubing.
