What are you guys doing to get low 60 foots?

I have 3.73s and a 4000 stall...car weighs in around 3100lbs...all the bolt ons

!sway,!bumper supports, LCAs, SFCs, 255mt drag radials....I can't get this thing to leave with better then a mid 1.7 60` 18psi in the tires.

Track was well prepped tried rolling into it...launching at different rpms...had a few other people drive it...It hooks then 60`s 1.7ish pushing it harder just causes wheel spin.

Time for more suspension? suggestions?

 

that sucks.

get a better tune.

 

show us some more #s a layout of the time slip and some more info on the car.....thats not that great for that stall ang weight.....

 

sounds like you need more tire,if you can not launch as hard as you want.i would go to a ET drag slick 26 inch,or get taller drag radials like 28 inch.my sons SI camaro goes 1.55 60 ft with a SS3600 on a 26 inch ET DRAG.

 

Heat the tires, stage at idle, flash the conveter and hang on. 1.57-1.60s pretty easily. Sounds like you need some better tires. I ran 26x11.5x15 Hoosier QTPs.

 

60 1.774
330 5.236
1/8 8.083
MPH 86.70
1000 10.524
1/4 12.582
MPH 109.59

Before the stall it was running 12.6 108-109..with 1.81 60`s

Maybe Fuddle converters are very inefficient?

Car dynoed 343 wheel before the stall..which means **** because I care about track times..

 

I was going to run QTPs this year...but everyone was ranting about how great the 16inch MT drag radials are....

I guess I will get some rims and go the 15inch QTP route next season.

 

flash stall it!!! do a good burn out and stall it at around 1500 and then when it turns green, floor it, if u hook, u will see 60's in the 1. 50s!! i have a fuddle 3600 and have a si , it wieghts around 3500 and have goune 1.55s consistently! 12 flat quarters!

p.s. if this doesnt work, u definetly need another tire!

 

While I'm no where near any of you guys, (north western Alberta here) I bought a set of MT E.T. Drag radials to stay competative in our tracks Real Street class... same as real street. (no delay boxes, trans brakes, line locks and you must use a D.O.T. approved tires.

I bought 255/55/16s which are the smae specs at my street tires.

M/T's website was a big help as I've never used drag radials and honestly never had a car that could do a burnout before
Okay stop laughing now. First car at the track was a '04 Grand Prix 3.8L n/a that ran 16.2 @ 87mph with just a generic mail order tune and the mighty K&N CIA.

Basically the M/T website said to heat the tires up really good on your very first burnout with them to start a even wear pattern, scuffing up the whole surface of the tires.
Get a good amount of smoke rolling off them, but you don't need to put John Force to shame while doing so.. power hard out of the burnout box and you should hear the tires hook up and squeal.
Wait till the starter motions for you to pull up to stage. Do a single, quick dry hop to ensure the tires are going to hook nicely.

Immediately stage while the tires are still warm!
If you or the other guy dicks around reving the engine or farting around, your tires will cool down and you'll loose traction out of the hole. If this is the case, you'll have to feather the launch a bit so you're not blowing the tires off and pulling a 3.5s 60' accomanied with a funny car style burnout. Ask me how I know! You'll have to feather the petal slightly too if your dry hop yeilds spinnage as well.

After you get the very first burnout taken care of, the rest of your burnouts should be enough to see the tires smoke easily in your back window. Again power hard out of the hole and try a dry hop if you like. (its optional but give you a good idea of what your launch will be like)

As far as how high to take the rpms's up.. you might have to just try different ranges and see what works best for you.
I would think the higher the rpms you can stall the car to at the lights, the faster the converter will reach its flash point and dish out the power.

My car is almost bones stock with only a 3200 vig stall, SLP FLowPak and 3" cats/hi-flow muffler. Stock internals and programing with 140,000km's on the clock. Race weight is a portly 3700lbs including 195lbs of me.

While staging I can take the car upto around 26-2750rpms before the brakes won't hold the the car inches through the beams and I cut a .150 red light... ask me how I know this too! My best 60' has been 1.79.
The tired dead hook every time as long as the track is dry and preped. =\

All this info may meen nothing new to you in which case I've wasted my time *L*
But hopefully it helps someone!

 

I may just see what I can do with these trying to flash it...

If this fails...I will just get bogarts and throw a big tire under it.

 

The size wouldn't hurt to go up, but when selecting your next tire be sure to get a slick for lower 60's. I ran 1.5-1.6 on M/T ET Street Slicks (26x10.50.15). When I ran my BFG drag radials (275/50r15) it would only get a best of 1.7x's dead set hooking. My slicks makes it launch a hell of a lot harder. Just my two cents.

 

assuming "all the bolt ons" means you have exactly that .. you should be cutting high 1.5's with that stall. I've seen all bolt on cars tuned making >370rwtq and cutting 1.61 w/ a 3600 stall .. FULL weight and the same tire you're running. ** just food for thought *

-Get it tuned
-flash it from 2K or below

 

I played around with the car out in the middle of no where last night...

low rpm flash seems like the way to go...

 

Ohh btw I also had a 4000 fuddle stall converter in my car with those times but I had a 3.42 gear in the rear.

 

I have a full Weight (exept sway bar) bolt on car with a PT4000 converter and 4.10's either flashing or Full stall, nets a 1.5X-1.60 on 275/50r15 Nitto DR's... Only Suspension is BMR front Springs and V6 Rears..Runs Consistant 7.5X 1/8th

 

Stock internals here. When my car weighed 3150 (3325 with me in it) I would go 1.55 60fts on MT drag radials with 17psi in them, and run 7.5X in the 1/8th, and 12.00 in the 1/4 @ a high 111mph. DA on the runs was between +1700-2000. Looking at your slip, it looks like you are spinning or the track prep is poor.

Putting a bigger tire on at this point is a crutch. Unless you are running a 4.30 or numerically higher gear in the rear, there is no need to go to anything bigger than a 26" tire. And don't waste your time with the ET Streets or QTPs. Go with a MT or Hoosier drag radial or full slick.

Are you on stock suspension? Adding LCAs, torque arm, and some shocks in the front will help a lot! Have you had the car tuned for the converter? I shift mine at 6300 and it seems to really shine up top. And I would flash the converter if you are not running on a pro tree. My Yank PT4400 likes to be flashed rather than brake stalled.

 

255/50/16 MT ET Street DR + Brake stalling to 3000 rpm + 3rd yellow equals 1.6x's easy.

Lots of weight out of the car, and what little suspension work I have done helps too. All I have done suspension wise is SFC's, Non-Adjustable LCA's, and a Non-Adjustable Jegster TA. I've pulled 1.75x's on street tires.

A great deal of getting the car out of the hole is learning the car. Not every car is the same, learn yours and reap the rewards.

 

This really depends on your elevation too.
You're certainly not going to run the same times @ 5000' elivation as you do @ 500'.

Best 60' time I could get on street tires were 2.0s.
Best 60' time with MT drag radials is 1.81s.
Dead hook, no hop.

I can't hold the car past 2700rpm or the brakes won't hold the front end and I push slowly through the lights.

Leaving on the 3rd yellow on a Full Tree = .300 red light

 

So after puttin the stall converter in it only picked up .02 and 1mph? Sure the converter is good?

 

I only gained 1.2mph and about 2 tenths.