Anti squat ??
Anti squat ?? I have seen a lot of talk about anti squat lately. I just want to make sure I understand this correctly. OK lets start with the LCAs with relocation brackets, now trying to make this simple if you put the LCAs on the lowest hole in the relocation brackets it will give you more anti squat and hit the tires harder? If you are hitting the tires to hard and over powering them as in my Nittos should I take some of the anti squat out by moving the LCAs back up to hit the tires a little softer? I spoke to Lee at BMR yesterday and this is what I got out of our conversation and just wanted to make sure I understood him correctly and this is a good topic that may help a lot of people here with some of the gremlins that haunt us.
Any and all knowledge on this subject will be helpful for many.
I am also reading a lot that DRs like to be hit HARD could it be possible I am not hitting them hard enough. Remember I am running 28" Nittos so I rile don't think this is the case but it does not hurt to ask?
My car is an 02 Z28 with cam, A4 with an FTI 4000 converter, stock rear with 3.23s, Niotto 275,60,15 , BMR SFC, BMR adjustable T/A, BMR LCA relocation brackets, 125 dry shot and runs 10.80s so far with old set up the only thing that has changed is the new FTI converter.
Any and all knowledge on this subject will be helpful for many.
I am also reading a lot that DRs like to be hit HARD could it be possible I am not hitting them hard enough. Remember I am running 28" Nittos so I rile don't think this is the case but it does not hurt to ask?
My car is an 02 Z28 with cam, A4 with an FTI 4000 converter, stock rear with 3.23s, Niotto 275,60,15 , BMR SFC, BMR adjustable T/A, BMR LCA relocation brackets, 125 dry shot and runs 10.80s so far with old set up the only thing that has changed is the new FTI converter.
IMO. Normally A/S brackets should be used anytime you lower the suspension and the objective is to maximize stiffness as the rear is forced forward under the extreme load and torque. It also reduces load from the yoke, unis and DS, which will help you not to break things. A simple rule of thumb should to have the LCAs level with the frame of the car. Too low= loss of traction, Too high=loss of traction. Level=optimum stiffness= traction.
Each frame has its own personality. Adj LCAs help in dialing in and correcting launch and alignment. So if you launch and the car pushes right or left. You can tweek the appropriate LCA to get the car to launch straight.
Inspect the LCAs while the suspension is loaded. Not on a jack or stands. If the LCAs are Parallel with the pavement, you should be good to go.
Each frame has its own personality. Adj LCAs help in dialing in and correcting launch and alignment. So if you launch and the car pushes right or left. You can tweek the appropriate LCA to get the car to launch straight.
Inspect the LCAs while the suspension is loaded. Not on a jack or stands. If the LCAs are Parallel with the pavement, you should be good to go.
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Joined: Oct 2007
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From: Ventura County, California
You don't just set the LCA parallel with the door, there are countless ride hight, trans, motor, tire and gear combo's. Best way to find the right setting is to try them, record the results and use the one that works best.
Having different adjustments on the rear LCA bracket is to adjust the hight and length which the cars torque arm and LCA intersection point meet at.
This imaginary point will effect whether the tires spin/hook, the car squats or lifts in the rear, amount force placed over the tires, how fast the tire is hit, how much the car will tend to wheelie or unload the tire, there are many, many factors.
Set up the car how you will run it and then set the pinion angle where it needs to be and try a hole, run a few passes, get a base line and try the other hole and set the pinion angle where it needs to be, then make a few more passes.
Use the one that gives you the best ET.
Having different adjustments on the rear LCA bracket is to adjust the hight and length which the cars torque arm and LCA intersection point meet at.
This imaginary point will effect whether the tires spin/hook, the car squats or lifts in the rear, amount force placed over the tires, how fast the tire is hit, how much the car will tend to wheelie or unload the tire, there are many, many factors.
Set up the car how you will run it and then set the pinion angle where it needs to be and try a hole, run a few passes, get a base line and try the other hole and set the pinion angle where it needs to be, then make a few more passes.
Use the one that gives you the best ET.
Last edited by chrismorales75; Oct 18, 2007 at 01:51 PM.
