A3 Guys,Throw it Neutral at the end of your run??
A3 Guys,Throw it Neutral at the end of your run?? Just wondering for you guys using RMVB A3's do you throw it in neutral after the traps or just keep it in 3rd???
BTLFEDSS
BTLFEDSS
Btlfed, after I go through the traps, I let off and throw it to 2nd, which basically throws it in neutral, cuz when you are off the gas in first or 2nd, it is basically neutral, forget the exact term for it, but you get my drift.
Do not throw it in neutral. I forget what exactly goes on but the tranny isn't pumping any fluid. When I was calling around about a tranny build that was something every builder stressed.
i have thrown mine into "second" as the transmission is essentially freewheeling.
now i would never stab the gas as that point as i am on the brakes anyways. mine is a RMVB th400 so i cant throw it into N without first selecting 2,1,N
now i would never stab the gas as that point as i am on the brakes anyways. mine is a RMVB th400 so i cant throw it into N without first selecting 2,1,N
I've been doin it for years w/o issues. I think what you just said is just a myth, same thing about not cuttin the motor when you go through the traps, yet a lot of people do it to read the plugs (myself included).
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depending on the valve body, low gears (1st and 2nd) do no thave engine braking
The Bull
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,578
Likes: 2
From: Grand Rapids, MI
Yep, don't change gears. Feel free to let up and coast it around in gear. You also do not want to shut your motor off for the lack of engine RPM's will stop spinning the converter, which ultimately stops pumping the trans fluid around and that's where the fluid/lubricating issues come into play.
Yep, don't change gears. Feel free to let up and coast it around in gear. You also do not want to shut your motor off for the lack of engine RPM's will stop spinning the converter, which ultimately stops pumping the trans fluid around and that's where the fluid/lubricating issues come into play.
so how can one check the true conditions of the plugs?
The Bull
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,578
Likes: 2
From: Grand Rapids, MI
If you let it idle around the turn you can pull the plugs and the heat/timing mark will still be where it needs to be. You can wipe out the heat/timing mark only if you put heat back into the plug. If you pull the plugs out at the top end you can usually get a pretty good reading right there. I used to carry the socket with me to pull as many plugs as I needed to at the top end.
That little extra around the turn doesn't make much of a difference in the timing mark at all. If you drive it back to the pit area you can potentially wipe out the mark. However, small part throttle back to the pits and I've always been able to get the reading off all of my plugs, no problem. I probably don't need to tell you that the only way to get a true reading is to stuff a new plug(s) into it each pass. You can get a reading off an old plug, but you're better off with a new one.
That little extra around the turn doesn't make much of a difference in the timing mark at all. If you drive it back to the pit area you can potentially wipe out the mark. However, small part throttle back to the pits and I've always been able to get the reading off all of my plugs, no problem. I probably don't need to tell you that the only way to get a true reading is to stuff a new plug(s) into it each pass. You can get a reading off an old plug, but you're better off with a new one.
If you let it idle around the turn you can pull the plugs and the heat/timing mark will still be where it needs to be. You can wipe out the heat/timing mark only if you put heat back into the plug. If you pull the plugs out at the top end you can usually get a pretty good reading right there. I used to carry the socket with me to pull as many plugs as I needed to at the top end.
That little extra around the turn doesn't make much of a difference in the timing mark at all. If you drive it back to the pit area you can potentially wipe out the mark. However, small part throttle back to the pits and I've always been able to get the reading off all of my plugs, no problem. I probably don't need to tell you that the only way to get a true reading is to stuff a new plug(s) into it each pass. You can get a reading off an old plug, but you're better off with a new one.
That little extra around the turn doesn't make much of a difference in the timing mark at all. If you drive it back to the pit area you can potentially wipe out the mark. However, small part throttle back to the pits and I've always been able to get the reading off all of my plugs, no problem. I probably don't need to tell you that the only way to get a true reading is to stuff a new plug(s) into it each pass. You can get a reading off an old plug, but you're better off with a new one.
The Bull
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,578
Likes: 2
From: Grand Rapids, MI
You definitely do not want to put it back in 2nd unless you have an unbanded drum. If you have drum with no band you essentially are freewheeling the trans anyway because the rear axle speed is faster than your idle speed so the drum is able to spin freely anyway. If you turn the car off though, you will not be circulating your oil while the car is moving and that can effect the clutches, the oil temps in the converter, etc. If you want your parts to last, I would just wait until the end of the track to check your plugs. You're name isn't Pat Musi, Marc Dantoni or Billy Glidden, so don't worry about it too much.
As far as checking the plugs, the timing mark will be on the plug very solid. You just have to worry about the type of plug you use. Some of the plugs have a funky coating on them and that can mess with getting a reading because you have to scrape that coating off to see the real timing mark. I always used a non-coated Autolite plug and the timing marks were always solid after making the turn.
If you're really concerned about getting data off your run you would probably want to start looking at using a Racepak setup instead anyway. The plugs are only going to tell you so much. If you are really interested in every inch of your run you wouldn't look at the plugs as much as you would your entire run data. There's a steep cost to adding the Racepak and it's why most people get by with just the plug readings. It's really worth it though in terms of getting a good look at all aspects of your run.
As far as checking the plugs, the timing mark will be on the plug very solid. You just have to worry about the type of plug you use. Some of the plugs have a funky coating on them and that can mess with getting a reading because you have to scrape that coating off to see the real timing mark. I always used a non-coated Autolite plug and the timing marks were always solid after making the turn.
If you're really concerned about getting data off your run you would probably want to start looking at using a Racepak setup instead anyway. The plugs are only going to tell you so much. If you are really interested in every inch of your run you wouldn't look at the plugs as much as you would your entire run data. There's a steep cost to adding the Racepak and it's why most people get by with just the plug readings. It's really worth it though in terms of getting a good look at all aspects of your run.
You definitely do not want to put it back in 2nd unless you have an unbanded drum. If you have drum with no band you essentially are freewheeling the trans anyway because the rear axle speed is faster than your idle speed so the drum is able to spin freely anyway. If you turn the car off though, you will not be circulating your oil while the car is moving and that can effect the clutches, the oil temps in the converter, etc. If you want your parts to last, I would just wait until the end of the track to check your plugs. You're name isn't Pat Musi, Marc Dantoni or Billy Glidden, so don't worry about it too much.
As far as checking the plugs, the timing mark will be on the plug very solid. You just have to worry about the type of plug you use. Some of the plugs have a funky coating on them and that can mess with getting a reading because you have to scrape that coating off to see the real timing mark. I always used a non-coated Autolite plug and the timing marks were always solid after making the turn.
If you're really concerned about getting data off your run you would probably want to start looking at using a Racepak setup instead anyway. The plugs are only going to tell you so much. If you are really interested in every inch of your run you wouldn't look at the plugs as much as you would your entire run data. There's a steep cost to adding the Racepak and it's why most people get by with just the plug readings. It's really worth it though in terms of getting a good look at all aspects of your run.
As far as checking the plugs, the timing mark will be on the plug very solid. You just have to worry about the type of plug you use. Some of the plugs have a funky coating on them and that can mess with getting a reading because you have to scrape that coating off to see the real timing mark. I always used a non-coated Autolite plug and the timing marks were always solid after making the turn.
If you're really concerned about getting data off your run you would probably want to start looking at using a Racepak setup instead anyway. The plugs are only going to tell you so much. If you are really interested in every inch of your run you wouldn't look at the plugs as much as you would your entire run data. There's a steep cost to adding the Racepak and it's why most people get by with just the plug readings. It's really worth it though in terms of getting a good look at all aspects of your run.
The 'shut off the car to get a plug reading' thing is more for carb'd cars that run at 9:1 a/f at idle and dump a crapload of fuel on decel.
Most modern EFI cars will pretty much shut the fuel off (DFCO, BS3 has it) once you dump the throttle. Even if you drive it back a little the 13-14:1 a/f wont color the plugs.
As far as putting in 2nd (neutral on a TCI TB valve body) most of the time I dont but I could if I wanted to. I'm usually too concerned with stopping than farting around with the shifter at 140-150mph. The first 60 foot of slowing down is almost as important as the first 60 feet of taking off.
Most modern EFI cars will pretty much shut the fuel off (DFCO, BS3 has it) once you dump the throttle. Even if you drive it back a little the 13-14:1 a/f wont color the plugs.
As far as putting in 2nd (neutral on a TCI TB valve body) most of the time I dont but I could if I wanted to. I'm usually too concerned with stopping than farting around with the shifter at 140-150mph. The first 60 foot of slowing down is almost as important as the first 60 feet of taking off.
The Bull
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 3,578
Likes: 2
From: Grand Rapids, MI
