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Old Nov 4, 2007 | 03:01 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by TwoFast4Lv
8 point I will see if I can dig up the full requirements on line. I am pretty sure KP has them some where also.
ya, i want to do the bare minimum for cage and ****, cause my car is a street car, and i drive it everywhere, and id prefer not to look like john force going to krogers with bars coming out of my ***
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Old Nov 4, 2007 | 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by JDP
ya, i want to do the bare minimum for cage and ****, cause my car is a street car, and i drive it everywhere, and id prefer not to look like john force going to krogers with bars coming out of my ***
Thanks for the mental picture! lol!!
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Old Nov 4, 2007 | 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 00SS!
Thanks for the mental picture! lol!!
haha, well my car is a street car, leather interior, power everything, monsoon stereo, and i dont want to cage my car out unless its absolutely necessary

ive gone a best of 11.20 @ 126, and thats on stock 10 bolt, and stock suspension in my six speed car, and i know after i do a rear end and suspension that it will be in the 10s, and on the bottle it should go into the nines and trap well over that 135 mark, so i know ill need the safety stuff, but i would like to know how hardcore it needs to be
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Old Nov 4, 2007 | 07:18 PM
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It will be tough to be completely legal for 9's and be a street car. Something has to give.
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Old Nov 4, 2007 | 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by JDP
11.49 and faster you need a 6 point bar,

For 2007 you only need a 5-pt roll bar. I haven't heard anything about a change. Maybe someone else can confirm. Here's a link to the NHRA FAQ:


http://www.nhra.com/contacts/tech_faq.html
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Old Nov 4, 2007 | 07:55 PM
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IHRA is 5 or 6
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Old Nov 4, 2007 | 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by DrkPhx
For 2007 you only need a 5-pt roll bar. I haven't heard anything about a change. Maybe someone else can confirm. Here's a link to the NHRA FAQ:


http://www.nhra.com/contacts/tech_faq.html
ya, they say 9.99 or over 135 you need a full roll cage
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Old Nov 4, 2007 | 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by DrkPhx
For 2007 you only need a 5-pt roll bar. I haven't heard anything about a change. Maybe someone else can confirm. Here's a link to the NHRA FAQ:


http://www.nhra.com/contacts/tech_faq.html



YEAH alot of horrible info in this thread.

The above is correct for cars running faster then 11.99 for IHRA and 11.49 for NHRA.
A 5 point is all thats needed Rollbar wise.

11.999 IHRA / 11.49 NHRA

1. single layer fire jacket is needed.
2. Helmet
(Snell 95 or SFI 41.1A min.)
3. Bellhousing (SFI 6.1/6.2)
4. Driveshaft Loop or any time a slick is used at ant ET.
5. Flywheel/Clutch (SFI 1.1/1.2)

Now for NHRA it changes again for many things at 10.99

1. Aftermarket Rear Axles are needed
2. Harmonic Balancer (SFI 18.1)
3. Master Electrical Cutoff (135mph)
4. Transmission Shield (SFI 4.1)

Then for 9.99 and quicker...
all the above plus a 8 point cage for non modified firewall cars.
1. Double layer Pants and Jacket (sold the old jacket wont work)
neck brace, double layer gloves, shoes
2. Auto Trans Flexplate (SFI 29.1)
3. Driver Restraint System (SFI 16.1)
4. Flexplate Shield (SFI 30.1)
5. NHRA Competition License
6. NHRA Chassis Sticker
7. Parachute @ 150mph
8. Window Net


Its all right on NHRA's site under there Quck Ref E.T. guide

Kyle
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Old Nov 4, 2007 | 08:13 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by NA$TY-TA
YEAH alot of horrible info in this thread.

The above is correct for cars running faster then 11.99 for IHRA and 11.49 for NHRA.
A 5 point is all thats needed Rollbar wise.

11.999 IHRA / 11.49 NHRA

1. single layer fire jacket is needed.
2. Helmet
(Snell 95 or SFI 41.1A min.)
3. Bellhousing (SFI 6.1/6.2)
4. Driveshaft Loop or any time a slick is used at ant ET.
5. Flywheel/Clutch (SFI 1.1/1.2)

Now for NHRA it changes again for many things at 10.99

1. Aftermarket Rear Axles are needed
2. Harmonic Balancer (SFI 18.1)
3. Master Electrical Cutoff (135mph)
4. Transmission Shield (SFI 4.1)

Then for 9.99 and quicker...
all the above plus a 8 point cage for non modified firewall cars.
1. Double layer Pants and Jacket (sold the old jacket wont work)
neck brace, double layer gloves, shoes
2. Auto Trans Flexplate (SFI 29.1)
3. Driver Restraint System (SFI 16.1)
4. Flexplate Shield (SFI 30.1)
5. NHRA Competition License
6. NHRA Chassis Sticker
7. Parachute @ 150mph
8. Window Net


Its all right on NHRA's site under there Quck Ref E.T. guide

Kyle
looks like i broke a few rules last time at the track, lol.

what consists of an 8 point, ive never been this fast to need all these safety features.

and i need a master cutoff at 135? where the **** does that go, on my fender? my battery is still up front
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Old Nov 4, 2007 | 09:18 PM
  #30  
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I am still trying to figure out where all the "Horrible" info is?

Good job finding the info. I found the quick guide but I could not find the break down on the cages which is what I was really looking for.

BTW the switch has to go on the back of the car
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Old Nov 4, 2007 | 09:37 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by TwoFast4Lv
I am still trying to figure out where all the "Horrible" info is?

Good job finding the info. I found the quick guide but I could not find the break down on the cages which is what I was really looking for.

BTW the switch has to go on the back of the car
let me get this straight, i have the battery in the front of the car, so im going to have to run wires all the way to the back, then back up front, just for a damn switch. this is ludacris, i thought you only had to do that if the battery was in the back.
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Old Nov 4, 2007 | 09:38 PM
  #32  
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I wouldn't run that fast with a 6 point anyways, if you actually crash it will make a pretty big difference having extra safety equipment.

I've seen a car roll and some one get tossed out of the window, window net, neck collars, fire suits and things might be a hassle, but they help prevent your death, I would just get a little extra if you're going to race the car.
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Old Nov 4, 2007 | 11:25 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by JDP
let me get this straight, i have the battery in the front of the car, so im going to have to run wires all the way to the back, then back up front, just for a damn switch. this is ludacris, i thought you only had to do that if the battery was in the back.
no you do not have to move the battery but there are some good advantages to doing it.

I have posted this before I guess no one noticed



High Amp Alternator Shut Down Relay Kit
P/N - 764-50105
This kit, comes complete with 250 amp solenoid and two 10' sections of 8 gauge wire, will effectively handle alternator feedback of the highest amperage alternators. Eliminates engine run-on when the master disconnect is turned off.


No one said going fast was easy. if it was everyone would be doing it
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 09:16 PM
  #34  
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ya, i know, but damn, i would hate to drill a hole that says ON/OFF, that just screams its fast in my opinion.

****, maybe ill do the trick with the taillight and go through that and have the push pull style switch and swap it out to a normal light for on the street.

i need to get me a rulebook, to see exactly what i will need for a cage, and my john force lookalike outfit, lol
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Old Nov 6, 2007 | 12:32 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by JDP
let me get this straight, i have the battery in the front of the car, so im going to have to run wires all the way to the back, then back up front, just for a damn switch. this is ludacris, i thought you only had to do that if the battery was in the back.
It wont be so ludacris if youre car crashes and starts pouring fuel everywhere, and nobody can turn off youre electical system. Or even worse if the car just goes up in flames. Ive seen it happen to a car just stitting there not even in the water box yet.
http://www.rsdtv.net/view_video.php?...a748ab6d9af3fd
The only reason that looked so bad is because the fuel pump was still on. Now think how to put that out before you can turn off the pump, you cant or you wait for it to run out of gas.

End Rant//

Sorry for getting a lil preachy, but NOTHING is more important than youre saftey period.

Sean
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