Drag-Race Improvement Questions...
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10 Second Club
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From: Arlington, Texas (Dallas Area)
Drag-Race Improvement Questions... I have a few items I would like to take care of this winter that have to do with my car which is mainly for drag racing. What are your thought/experiences?
1) I've done a lot of weight reduction; carpet, speakers, seats, bumper supports, A/C. Who has done interior door panels but left the stock piece on? Is this possible? Other than lightweight brakes, am I missing a crucial item? (K-member done as well) Does battery relocation matter and a fuel cell?
2) I have too many lights on my dashboard; other than tuning, any special way to get these off? (TCS, Low Oil (I DO NOT have low oil!), service vehicle (no codes), ABS)
3) I run 10.88 All Motor now and would like to run 10.50s. Is this possible with a little more weight reduction?
4) The million dollar gear question: I have 4.56s - Would I see an improvement if I switched to 4.10s on 26" Hoosier Slicks? (Mainly an 1/8 mile car)
1) I've done a lot of weight reduction; carpet, speakers, seats, bumper supports, A/C. Who has done interior door panels but left the stock piece on? Is this possible? Other than lightweight brakes, am I missing a crucial item? (K-member done as well) Does battery relocation matter and a fuel cell?
2) I have too many lights on my dashboard; other than tuning, any special way to get these off? (TCS, Low Oil (I DO NOT have low oil!), service vehicle (no codes), ABS)
3) I run 10.88 All Motor now and would like to run 10.50s. Is this possible with a little more weight reduction?
4) The million dollar gear question: I have 4.56s - Would I see an improvement if I switched to 4.10s on 26" Hoosier Slicks? (Mainly an 1/8 mile car)
What does the car weigh now? The Formula hatch is lighter too I hear.
I have this Camaro at 3090 w/o driver, and I can still cut some some small brackets, remove the ABS module, do k-member and drag brakes. so I'm thinking I can get the car to 2900-2950 without getting out the plasma cutter.
If you are on 28's now I would stay on them.
I'm looking for 10.5 watch out!!!!!!!
I already ordered a better converter.
I have this Camaro at 3090 w/o driver, and I can still cut some some small brackets, remove the ABS module, do k-member and drag brakes. so I'm thinking I can get the car to 2900-2950 without getting out the plasma cutter.
If you are on 28's now I would stay on them.
I'm looking for 10.5 watch out!!!!!!!
I already ordered a better converter.
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From: Out on the farm in Central IL
Brakes are a good way to take out weight. It's rotating weight. You get more bang for the buck. Moving the battery will help with weight transfer. Fuel cell is very doable but will require a new pump. I have a 5 gallon cell in mine in the t top well. I also have the rear firewall to be legal.
We have Aerospace brakes on sale right now. PM for a price if interested.
We have Aerospace brakes on sale right now. PM for a price if interested.
Do the Odyssey battery in the stock location,it weighs 15lbs.If you move the battery to the trunk area you gain the weight of the cables. Glass hood,i bought mine from VFN,group purchase - 220$.Pin-on it weighs 12lbs.stocker with all the brackets was,48-50lbs.Head lights assembly are close to 20lbs,pull the whole thing out,then make small brackets out of aluminum to put the outer covers back in place.Door bars are easy to take out through the holes the wiring goes into,16-17 pair.
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From: Ventura County, California
Mini tubbing is worth 30 pounds easy 
I took 53 pounds going with a full tub in mine.
I thought the door bars were only 5 pounds?
If you're running mainly 1/8th mile stuff why wouldn't you run more gear?
Battery relocation helps weight transfer, fuel cell is lighter, gas is about 8 pounds per gallon.
There is probably about 150 more pounds easy you can cut out of the car. Literally cut as in metal.
I took 53 pounds going with a full tub in mine.I thought the door bars were only 5 pounds?
If you're running mainly 1/8th mile stuff why wouldn't you run more gear?
Battery relocation helps weight transfer, fuel cell is lighter, gas is about 8 pounds per gallon.
There is probably about 150 more pounds easy you can cut out of the car. Literally cut as in metal.
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Do the Odyssey battery in the stock location,it weighs 15lbs.If you move the battery to the trunk area you gain the weight of the cables. Glass hood,i bought mine from VFN,group purchase - 220$.Pin-on it weighs 12lbs.stocker with all the brackets was,48-50lbs.Head lights assembly are close to 20lbs,pull the whole thing out,then make small brackets out of aluminum to put the outer covers back in place.Door bars are easy to take out through the holes the wiring goes into,16-17 pair.
I'm not really sure what you mean about the door panels. Do you mean, gut the door itself, and then put the stock panel back over on top? The material that the door is made of is not metal. It's some composite stuff, which is very light. Someone posted a picture of their entire door cut away, with only just enough material left to hold up the window supports and allow the panel to be bolted up. I think the total weight savings for BOTH doors total was like 7 lbs. You'd be better off taking the door bars out, they are 9lbs each. I'd only do this if you have a cage which I'm sure you do running a 10.88 :wink:
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From: Tampa, FL
I have an odyssey battery and I moved it to the trunk. My stock battery weighs 36lbs and the ody batt is 15. I just have 2 batt cables running to the rear and both of them together weigh 10lbs. So total weight is 25lbs. Still better than 36lbs and its in the rear of the car too. You can also go manual steering, gut the doors, sound deadening behind the dash, winsheild wipers and motor. Just depends on how hardcare you wanna go.
-Mark
-Mark
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iTrader: (33)
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From: Out on the farm in Central IL
Odessey battery is fine until you start to run deep 10's and will not pass tech in the 9's.
You need to look at WHERE the weight is as well as how much. Cutting 15 lbs off the nose is great. Moving that weight to the rear may benefit you more even with the added weight of the cables.
Food for thought.
You need to look at WHERE the weight is as well as how much. Cutting 15 lbs off the nose is great. Moving that weight to the rear may benefit you more even with the added weight of the cables.
Food for thought.
Just look for the writeup and you'll see what I'm talking about. Takes all of 15 minutes, and you can't see any difference from the front, other than the lights are off.
I got rid of my Service Vehicle, ABS, Brake, Airbag, and TCS lights this way. Plus I blocked off all the ones that I'm gonna cause in the future.
