wtf is my car doing?
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From: Out on the farm in Central IL
I would also move the LCAs up a hole. This will soften the launch a bit. Fix the studs, fix the spin on the rim and then try to play with the suspension. I would start with more air in the tire. Then move on to either the LCA angle or shock settings. Only do one at a time though.
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really move the lca's up? thats going to put them at an upward angle. isnt that a no no? i will tighten the rear shocks more next time for sure. what about pinion angle could that have any effect on that aspect? right now best i can tell on the garage floor is its at -2. thanks for all the input guys im still trying to learn.
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From: Out on the farm in Central IL
Moving the LCA will depend on the angle you currently have. You can move them up a hole and soften the hit on the tires. THis is if you can keep them at a dacent angle. Is the front of your TA adjustable?
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From: in your closet
yea it is but unfortunately i cant move it due to clearance with the exhaust. whats considered "decent" on the lca's?
He is 100% right, this would happen to me all the time when I was a 6-speed. I made the mistake of installing a lighter flywheel. When sprayed the car and launched it higher all of my problems went away.
Just a thought... what about a faulty valve in the shock on that side? When you watch it slow, it is as if the decompression of the shock happens instantly, instead of at the same rate as the compression thus not transferring weight during launch? It just looks like the wheel drops into a pothole and the body of the car doesn't even flinch. (no dampening) Just an idea.
Have you ever over-tightened the valving adjustment? Or backed the adjuster too far out ?
Good luck bro. Nice ride by the way!
Have you ever over-tightened the valving adjustment? Or backed the adjuster too far out ?
Good luck bro. Nice ride by the way!
Last edited by Goldfinger911; Jan 3, 2008 at 11:35 AM.
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From: Kissimmee, FL
I agree w/ moving the LCA's up 1 hole to soften the hit.
We see 'roughly' the same thing all the time w/ G-bodied cars and Mustangs using SSM bars (which do the same thing by lowering the lower control arm mount on the rearend). It works great when they're running 12's and 11's, but when they hit the 10's and faster the car makes enough power to put the rim through the tire on launch, thus unloading the rear tires just after launch.
Also agree w/ trying one thing at a time.
We see 'roughly' the same thing all the time w/ G-bodied cars and Mustangs using SSM bars (which do the same thing by lowering the lower control arm mount on the rearend). It works great when they're running 12's and 11's, but when they hit the 10's and faster the car makes enough power to put the rim through the tire on launch, thus unloading the rear tires just after launch.
Also agree w/ trying one thing at a time.
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just a little fyi. you want the lower arm level to the body/ground on higher power cars. if you lowered the car the lca angle changes i.e pointing down at the front. so you would need to level them by putting the rear in the lower hole. if it's closer to stock ride height then put them in the stock local. just remember one thing THE FASTER YOU GO THE TIGHTER THE CAR MUST BE i.e front travel shorter and shock settings tighter. i would set the car up this way if it was at my shop. i would put the lca stock local, rear shocks middle setting, pinion angle -2 i.e nose pointing at the ground. the front i would set up at full loose shock settings. this is a good starting point for cars in the 500-600 range. if it pulls a big wheelie tighten the front shocks intill the car leaves just right.
Last edited by 632bbc; Jan 3, 2008 at 07:50 PM.
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