Setting realistic goals.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 140
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From: Leadwood, Mo
Setting realistic goals. **SEE UPDATE POST #7**
I just bought an '01 Z28 (I'll list the mods below.) I have decided that I want to set a goal for myself to reach before I dive into more performance upgrades.
Once I can run that goal consistently, then I'll make some upgrades, set a new goal, and so on through out the season.
So, what 60', 1/8th and 1/4th mile E/Ts and Trap speeds should I shoot for?
Here are the mods:
FM-13 Camshaft
Spec 3 Clutch
SLP Long Tubes, ORY, Lid, Cold Air Kit, and Bolt-on SFC's
Magnaflow Cat-Back
85mm MAF and Bellows
Pro 5.0 Shifter
Lucas 30lb Injectors
Sumitomo 275/45/17 HTR-Z II tires on ZR1's
I do plan on getting a shift light for sure, maybe a line-lock and possibly a 2-step, just because I feel those are things M6 cars should have. But other than that it will stay as above until I reach my goal.
I just bought an '01 Z28 (I'll list the mods below.) I have decided that I want to set a goal for myself to reach before I dive into more performance upgrades.
Once I can run that goal consistently, then I'll make some upgrades, set a new goal, and so on through out the season.
So, what 60', 1/8th and 1/4th mile E/Ts and Trap speeds should I shoot for?
Here are the mods:
FM-13 Camshaft
Spec 3 Clutch
SLP Long Tubes, ORY, Lid, Cold Air Kit, and Bolt-on SFC's
Magnaflow Cat-Back
85mm MAF and Bellows
Pro 5.0 Shifter
Lucas 30lb Injectors
Sumitomo 275/45/17 HTR-Z II tires on ZR1's
I do plan on getting a shift light for sure, maybe a line-lock and possibly a 2-step, just because I feel those are things M6 cars should have. But other than that it will stay as above until I reach my goal.
Last edited by Kurt; May 21, 2008 at 01:43 AM.
I would shoot for a 1.9, 2.0 60 ft on those tire. Its all going to depend on the track prep, your elevation, how good of a driver you are, the tires you run, and the weather. IF you have the best of all of those you going to hit the mid 11 mark if you have the worst look for mid 12's if not worse.
You said realistic. A lot will depend on temp/track conditions. BUT with your set up: 2.0 60'; maybe (big maybe) high 12's at 105-110. Your tires are not going to do you any good. Why 30lb injectors?
To see immediate improvements, I would recommend: do your 2-step; line-lock and shift light; added a set of good DR on 15" rims (M/T would come to mind); get your car tuned by a professional. You'll need to get a good feel for what RPM the car launches good at. Practice, practice...
Pray for good weather.
I see you are servicing our country...God speed and keep safe.
David
To see immediate improvements, I would recommend: do your 2-step; line-lock and shift light; added a set of good DR on 15" rims (M/T would come to mind); get your car tuned by a professional. You'll need to get a good feel for what RPM the car launches good at. Practice, practice...
Pray for good weather.
I see you are servicing our country...God speed and keep safe.
David
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
From: Leadwood, Mo
I would shoot for a 1.9, 2.0 60 ft on those tire. Its all going to depend on the track prep, your elevation, how good of a driver you are, the tires you run, and the weather. IF you have the best of all of those you going to hit the mid 11 mark if you have the worst look for mid 12's if not worse.
You said realistic. A lot will depend on temp/track conditions. BUT with your set up: 2.0 60'; maybe (big maybe) high 12's at 105-110. Your tires are not going to do you any good. Why 30lb injectors?
To see immediate improvements, I would recommend: do your 2-step; line-lock and shift light; added a set of good DR on 15" rims (M/T would come to mind); get your car tuned by a professional. You'll need to get a good feel for what RPM the car launches good at. Practice, practice...
Pray for good weather.
I see you are servicing our country...God speed and keep safe.
David
To see immediate improvements, I would recommend: do your 2-step; line-lock and shift light; added a set of good DR on 15" rims (M/T would come to mind); get your car tuned by a professional. You'll need to get a good feel for what RPM the car launches good at. Practice, practice...
Pray for good weather.
I see you are servicing our country...God speed and keep safe.
David
I would say I'm a slightly above average driver, no expert by any means. I figure doing things this way will make me a better driver. Getting a feel for the car is number one priority.
The 30lb'ers where on there when I got, same with all the other mods. I think I'm going to do the line-lock and shift light for sure and look into a 2-step. Those will make life a little easier at the track. Once I get some consistent times then I'll look to the suspension.
I know the tires will suck for the track, and that some DR's would make alot of difference. I worry about the rearend though. However thats another topic and will be looking into that more.
And yes I'm in Iraq at the moment, only about a month and a half till I get home though. Thanks!
If you ever plan on having traction on the street or at the track I'd run a 17" MT ET street radial at a minimum and save my money for a 9" before the stock rear pops...
Does the car have 4.10's yet? If not I'd add them ASAP will knock at least a solid .2-.3 off your current ET along with some real tires
Does the car have 4.10's yet? If not I'd add them ASAP will knock at least a solid .2-.3 off your current ET along with some real tires
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 140
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From: Leadwood, Mo
If you ever plan on having traction on the street or at the track I'd run a 17" MT ET street radial at a minimum and save my money for a 9" before the stock rear pops...
Does the car have 4.10's yet? If not I'd add them ASAP will knock at least a solid .2-.3 off your current ET along with some real tires
Does the car have 4.10's yet? If not I'd add them ASAP will knock at least a solid .2-.3 off your current ET along with some real tires
Once I'm ready financially to buy a new rear, then I will go with some drag radials. But for the time being I would like to see how far I can make it on true street tires. I know not to expect alot, but I think it will improve my driving.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
From: Leadwood, Mo
Well here is a little update.
I found out that it is not a FM-13 cam. Its a TSP Grind 231/237 Duration @ .050, .581”/.587” Lift, 114 LSA. They are Hooker Long Tubes, not SLP. It was a stock clutch which was slipping and has been replaced with a RAM Powergrip HD. I changed the Magnaflow catback to 3" True Duals, x-pipe, single chamber Flowmasters. Had it retuned dynoed 395hp @ 6500 rpm, 354ft/lbs @ 5000 rpm
I got the Harlan Shift Light and SJM Line Lock. No 2-step yet.
On stock rear and street tires best is:
2.372 60ft
8.959 1/8th, 86mph trap
13.428 1/4th mile, 110mph trap
Thats lauching at 3000, shifting about 6500. It bogs on the 3k launch, but too much and it blows the tires off. Just need to dial in the launch RPM.
If I can get a 1.9-2.0 60ft it should be in the 12s. Trap speed seems to be there.
I have 275/60 M/T DRs on Bogart Dragstars, waiting till I get my Midwest Chassis Fab 9 in till I run those.
I found out that it is not a FM-13 cam. Its a TSP Grind 231/237 Duration @ .050, .581”/.587” Lift, 114 LSA. They are Hooker Long Tubes, not SLP. It was a stock clutch which was slipping and has been replaced with a RAM Powergrip HD. I changed the Magnaflow catback to 3" True Duals, x-pipe, single chamber Flowmasters. Had it retuned dynoed 395hp @ 6500 rpm, 354ft/lbs @ 5000 rpm
I got the Harlan Shift Light and SJM Line Lock. No 2-step yet.
On stock rear and street tires best is:
2.372 60ft
8.959 1/8th, 86mph trap
13.428 1/4th mile, 110mph trap
Thats lauching at 3000, shifting about 6500. It bogs on the 3k launch, but too much and it blows the tires off. Just need to dial in the launch RPM.
If I can get a 1.9-2.0 60ft it should be in the 12s. Trap speed seems to be there.
I have 275/60 M/T DRs on Bogart Dragstars, waiting till I get my Midwest Chassis Fab 9 in till I run those.
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A 4.10 gear in a stock 10 bolt is much weaker than a stock gear, the teeth are smaller. What suspension mods are you going to do? Look at madmans and co. post, that have a super killer deal on double adjustable afco front shocks and springs and travel limiters for a very low price. As well as some other packages that are also on special for this month.
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On The Tree
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
From: Leadwood, Mo
A 4.10 gear in a stock 10 bolt is much weaker than a stock gear, the teeth are smaller. What suspension mods are you going to do? Look at madmans and co. post, that have a super killer deal on double adjustable afco front shocks and springs and travel limiters for a very low price. As well as some other packages that are also on special for this month.
When the 9" goes in so will Midwest Chassis' Adjustable TA, LCAs, and PHB, Comp Engineering 3-way Shocks. Plus the rear has 4 hole LCA brackets.
The M/T ET Street Radial isn't really the optimum tire for a stick car, but it's 28" so a 4.11 isn't going to cut it if you're trying to max out your combo potential in the 1/4, I would actually run more gear unless you plan to add a descent amount more of power.
I would either run less tire or more gear, but I would lean towards a short 26" tire, so you can run a little less gear and if you add power and need more mph and less rpm you can jump up to the 28" tire.
I would either run less tire or more gear, but I would lean towards a short 26" tire, so you can run a little less gear and if you add power and need more mph and less rpm you can jump up to the 28" tire.