How to remove any possible binding in the rear?
How to remove any possible binding in the rear? I have pretty good parts in the rear suspension, but I think after breaking a few Sphon T/A's and several Moser 12 bolt's it's time to go through and truly finish the rear of the car.
Question is about eliminating any possible binding and bulliet proofing the rear end.
Info on car as it sits: 99 T/A 3400lb, 6 speed, Street/Stip car, Mcleod twin, 550-600hp leaving the line on the spray, 1.4 60's, 28" ET Streets, Denny's driveshaft, UMI Torque Arm, Mosier 9", Qa1 shocks with Madman lower shock mount kit, stock rear springs, BMR lower control arms with poly ends, BMR Panhard with Poly ends, Spohn NON-drag 25mm sway bar with stock end links.
How much do the poly end's play in possibly binding the rear? Am I at the point I should put rod end's in the LCA's? Both end's or just one?
I'm also thinking it's time to go with the Spohn or BMR drag bar to sturdy things up a little....
Any other thoughts on how to bulliet proof the rear of the car? Note I've broke 3 spohn t/a's (see past posts), and several 12bolts. I've switched to the UMI T/A and Mosier 9".
ps don't want to switch to an auto just yet......
Question is about eliminating any possible binding and bulliet proofing the rear end.
Info on car as it sits: 99 T/A 3400lb, 6 speed, Street/Stip car, Mcleod twin, 550-600hp leaving the line on the spray, 1.4 60's, 28" ET Streets, Denny's driveshaft, UMI Torque Arm, Mosier 9", Qa1 shocks with Madman lower shock mount kit, stock rear springs, BMR lower control arms with poly ends, BMR Panhard with Poly ends, Spohn NON-drag 25mm sway bar with stock end links.
How much do the poly end's play in possibly binding the rear? Am I at the point I should put rod end's in the LCA's? Both end's or just one?
I'm also thinking it's time to go with the Spohn or BMR drag bar to sturdy things up a little....
Any other thoughts on how to bulliet proof the rear of the car? Note I've broke 3 spohn t/a's (see past posts), and several 12bolts. I've switched to the UMI T/A and Mosier 9".
ps don't want to switch to an auto just yet......
If your serious about drag racing, i would ditch ALL the poly ends in your rear suspension. I dont know if that will keep you from breaking T/A's but you car should 60 ft. better. Those poly bushings bind a lot, i left the rear end side on the ones i used to have off and torqued the body side down, it took a lot of effort to move it. I can only imagine what its like multiplied by 6.
You didn't mention in you post if you have LCA relo brackets or not. I've always thought having the back of the LCA in the lowest hole would make life a little easier on the torque arm, But i could be wrong.
I used to run a T56, it used to 60ft in the low 1.4's pretty consistently. I broke 1 set of hard street gears, and 1 torque arm bracket (top bolts came loose) over 3yrs. I never had a issue once i switched to a pro-gear. I am still running a old skool BMR "Long" torque arm. I would think that one would be the one thats most prone to breakage.
You didn't mention in you post if you have LCA relo brackets or not. I've always thought having the back of the LCA in the lowest hole would make life a little easier on the torque arm, But i could be wrong.
I used to run a T56, it used to 60ft in the low 1.4's pretty consistently. I broke 1 set of hard street gears, and 1 torque arm bracket (top bolts came loose) over 3yrs. I never had a issue once i switched to a pro-gear. I am still running a old skool BMR "Long" torque arm. I would think that one would be the one thats most prone to breakage.
I do have the LCA brackets and have been using the lowest hole for them.
What do you mean by "i left the rear end side on the ones i used to have off and torqued the body side down"? I'm not sure what you meant by that?
What do you mean by "i left the rear end side on the ones i used to have off and torqued the body side down"? I'm not sure what you meant by that?
I think he was saying he just bolted his poly lcas to the car body mount and then tried to move them with the other side unhooked and it took alot of effort.
To make it stronger even thought there isn't a lot of info listed, run c-moly tubing for LCA, panhard rod and torque arm, all with rod ends, I don't see anything about a cage but a cage will help keep the chassis straight, and buy the biggest strongest anti roll bar you can put in the car.
Poly ends have a lot more play than rod ends, typical poly/poly rear will run -3 pinion angle while a rod/rod will run -1.5 angle, do to the difference in play.
As far as the rear end you have a moser 9" but what axles and differential? I'd run 35 or 40 spline axles and a spool, after that only thing you could do is go to a pro gear or run an ultra case with a 9.5" pro gear, but most people won't run that till you hit over 1500 hp or so.
Poly ends have a lot more play than rod ends, typical poly/poly rear will run -3 pinion angle while a rod/rod will run -1.5 angle, do to the difference in play.
As far as the rear end you have a moser 9" but what axles and differential? I'd run 35 or 40 spline axles and a spool, after that only thing you could do is go to a pro gear or run an ultra case with a 9.5" pro gear, but most people won't run that till you hit over 1500 hp or so.
