Adjustable TQ arm questions.
Adjustable TQ arm questions. I just got a BMR adjustable trans mount TQ arm.
What did you set your angle at? BMR says -2.
Did you notice any 60' increase or 1/4 improvements?
Any difference on the street?
Problems or issues?
What did you set your angle at? BMR says -2.
Did you notice any 60' increase or 1/4 improvements?
Any difference on the street?
Problems or issues?
Hit the floor with a hammer above the rear on the drivers side in a little so the arm won't hit the floor too bad, it will clearence itself, but beter if you do it so you can control teh damage.
I have also seen a couple people that cut the bracket to use the 2nd set of holes to bring the arm in closer to the center of the rear, not sure what's more of a pita though, banging the floor or cutting the thick bracket. -2 pinion angle is fine, make sure you measure it the right way, the nose of the rear should be pointing down a touch.
Make sure you use a good amount of red loctite on the bolts, crank them as tight as you can, don't pussyfoot around with how tight the bolts are, make sure you use a 1/2 inch ratchet and go as tight as you physcially can with them. If you really want to make sure the bolts don't back out, either put a small tack weld from the bead of the bolt after it's tight to the bracket, or drill a small hole thru the bolt after it's tight and wire them up. If ya just use the loctite and crank really hard, make it a regular habit to check the bolts, every time you go to the track, this is something that should be doen before and after, much like every other main suspension bolt.
Biggest thing I see is people not tightening the bolts enough, or not enough loctite.
The full lenth arm works good, I've been as low as a 1.35 with mine @ 3500 lbs (I run the same one) and IMO there's still a good bit left with some more tuning.
I have also seen a couple people that cut the bracket to use the 2nd set of holes to bring the arm in closer to the center of the rear, not sure what's more of a pita though, banging the floor or cutting the thick bracket. -2 pinion angle is fine, make sure you measure it the right way, the nose of the rear should be pointing down a touch.
Make sure you use a good amount of red loctite on the bolts, crank them as tight as you can, don't pussyfoot around with how tight the bolts are, make sure you use a 1/2 inch ratchet and go as tight as you physcially can with them. If you really want to make sure the bolts don't back out, either put a small tack weld from the bead of the bolt after it's tight to the bracket, or drill a small hole thru the bolt after it's tight and wire them up. If ya just use the loctite and crank really hard, make it a regular habit to check the bolts, every time you go to the track, this is something that should be doen before and after, much like every other main suspension bolt.
Biggest thing I see is people not tightening the bolts enough, or not enough loctite.
The full lenth arm works good, I've been as low as a 1.35 with mine @ 3500 lbs (I run the same one) and IMO there's still a good bit left with some more tuning.
If it will not fit without banging the floor, I won't put it on. If it bangs the floor it will come off. The car is stock ride hight, so I did not think there would be an issue.
I'll hang it on the wall of the garage as decoration. 
I may test it and take it off if it seems like it's going to hit. I can always keep it for a project track only car.
I may test it and take it off if it seems like it's going to hit. I can always keep it for a project track only car. Trending Topics
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I don't see how it could hit. Mine didn't even get close to hitting when it was on the stock 10 bolt. I know on the 9" they do hit and I have heard of some people that have had to cut off the rear driver side seat belt bracket. On my Dana 60 I had to use the second set of bolts because it was hitting really bad but after I did that it fit great.
Word of advice if you do decide to cut the torque arm take the mounting bracket off the torque arm it makes it a lot easier for test fitting.
Word of advice if you do decide to cut the torque arm take the mounting bracket off the torque arm it makes it a lot easier for test fitting.
Probably gonna take more power, and a bunch of weight reduction and a full slick with a 6500 clutch dump to really do that more then an inch or 2. Without a real tire on the car you probably won't do it at all
i heard with the mods you have...basically what i have...a trans mounted torque arm is not the way to go? was i lied to? im just curious because i havent been able to take my car to the track yet for any results and we have the same numbers.......?
I can't see a single instance where putting the strain that the front of the tq arm sees on the tranny tail shaft and transmission/motor mounts as a good idea.
All suspension parts should be mounted to a solid chassis point, wether it's via a rod end or a poly mount if the noise isn't tolerable.
All suspension parts should be mounted to a solid chassis point, wether it's via a rod end or a poly mount if the noise isn't tolerable.
Not saying one is right or wrong but the shorter the arm is, the more force that will be imparted to the car (Tunnel mnt). The longer torque arm has a mechanical advantage over the short one.
Never the less, what I might do is have tunnel mounted TA and drag sway bar (Wolfe?) that I'll use for track only, and the rest of the time I'll run stock parts. (If that stuff is too annoying for the street.)
Dave, I used to worry about modding the bottom of the car for a big torque arm, but I figure it's no big deal as long as it's done cleanly. When the time comes, I'll borrow my Buddie's are hammer and put a smooth, factory looking, precisely placed dent and just paint over it.
Never the less, what I might do is have tunnel mounted TA and drag sway bar (Wolfe?) that I'll use for track only, and the rest of the time I'll run stock parts. (If that stuff is too annoying for the street.)
Dave, I used to worry about modding the bottom of the car for a big torque arm, but I figure it's no big deal as long as it's done cleanly. When the time comes, I'll borrow my Buddie's are hammer and put a smooth, factory looking, precisely placed dent and just paint over it.